Optimum Poli-seal help?

[04v8s4]

Ladies and Gents,



I`m new to autopia and i have caught the detailing bug. I`ve been reading as much about detailing as possible over the past few months. Thank you all for taking the time to post such valuable information.



I live in central NY and need a better winterizing process. Before the winter this year i washed the car with the 2 BM, clayed, and put on two layers of megs gold class liquid wax. The protection just isn`t very durable. Approx 3-4 weeks after the "winterizing" there was little to no beading.



So...i did the winterizing process again over the holidays. This time i put on 3 coats of the Megs wax over the course of two days. Its still beading... but less than it was two weeks ago.



So i ordered some OPT poli-seal and some collinite 476s in hopes of better protection.



My question is...how to best apply the poli-seal? I have a PC and a bunch of LC pads. I will clay the car again if necessary...but i dont know if thats required. I assume i would want the paint as clean as possible before applying the poli-seal?!



Do i need to do an IPA wipedown before applying the poli-seal? How long do i let it set before removing? Is it best to apply by hand or machine? Which pad should i use to apply? How should i remove it?



How long do i need to wait before putting on the first coat of collinite?



Any help would be greatly appreciated!



Cheers,

Nick

[imported_MBenz]

Wash the car with a strong soap to strip off the megs.



If the surface feels very smooth you can skip the clay.



Apply the poli-seal with a polishing or finishing pad depending on how much correction you want to do. The Pc and poli-seal work very well together.



In my experience, poli-seal can we wiped off right after you apply it. There is usually very little residue left.



As far as i know there is no "cure time" needed for poli-seal, so you can go ahead and start with the 476s right after.



Just a little tip on the 476s, don`t put it on too heavy because it can be a pain to remove sometimes if you put it on too thick. Feel free to layer the 476s as much as you want, but multiple thin layers work best. IIRC 45 minutes is recommended between coats of collinite.



Hope this helps

[04v8s4]

Thats excellent advice, thanks for responding. The paint has some very very light swirling in some locations, but in otherwise excellent condition. I think at this point i`ll just apply it with a black finishing pad.



Does the poli-seal need to be worked/broken down like a traditional polish? Should it just buff right off with a MF?



Thanks again for the help.

[imported_etml12]

^Unless you are dealing with some awfully soft paint you can likely go ahead with a white LC pad with poli-seal. It will finish very nicely. Heck, you can even finish with orange LC pads on many paints.



As for working poli-seal, no, it doesn`t break down like a traditional polish. Instead it will "dissolve" into the paint. If your pad remains moist but you can barely see the product on the paint, you are using the right amount. Too much product and it will gum up the pad. When to buff off any remaining residue is up to you. Doing so immediately or once you finish the entire care will not alter residue removal. Personally, I tend to do the whole vehicle first, that way 2 trips around and I`m ready for LSP.

[imported_DieselMDX]

I use a orange to slightly correct or a white pad just to lay the product down



u will be happy with that combo

[04v8s4]

Thanks! I hope this combo will give me a more durable finish. I`ve also read that the collinite waxes dont look too bad either. Im not expecting anything spectacular...I`m more concerned w/ protection. But a nice gloss wouldn`t hurt either.

[pwaug]

You might want to try a base layer of a durable sealant then add the OptiSeal as additional protection. DG 105 is inexpensive and very durable.



Take a look at this comparison test done recently--he got 5.5 months out of DG105 before he ended the test--

VWvortex Forums: Six Way Sealant/Wax Test (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3939909)

[JaCkaL829]

As the other guys said use the Poli-Seal with the PC and on a white polishing pad. Poli-Seal is really nice it just disappears into the paint, and cuts somewhat fast. Wipe the remaining residue off and you should have a squeaky clean finish ready for the Collinite.



I actually did the same exact process (Poli-Seal/Fleetwax) for my car two weeks ago in anticipation for the NE winter.

[04v8s4]

Should i be worried about getting the poli-seal on any other surfaces than paint? Basically i want to know if this sealant will cause any discoloration on plastic trim, headlights? Glass? brushed aluminum?



Thanks again.

[imported_etml12]

Should i be worried about getting the poli-seal on any other surfaces than paint? Basically i want to know if this sealant will cause any discoloration on plastic trim, headlights? Glass? brushed aluminum?



Thanks again.



It is fine on all surfaces.