Is Rust proofing necessary?

[Sal_Seth]

I have to say I am a bit lost on the rust protection aspect. I got the paint part covered but what about underbody and all crevices that are not visible? Anyone has any idea if rust proofing is a good idea?



I dont want holes to be drilled and have to go back every year to those rust proofing shops. If possible, I want to avoid them. Arent the new vehicles manufactured nowadays so that they are corrosion/rust resistant for a long time?



There seems to be a lot of divided opinions out there... Also, my car is 2 years old so not sure what damage has already been done ... especially since vehicle rolls in salt/deicer slush for better part of winter.

[David Fermani]

Very good questions....

How long are you planning on keeping your vehicle?

[2002 Z06]

I actually, on my `94 Intgera, just used spray on undercoating from my old work. I jacked the car up, took the wheels off, and sprayed away....not a professional job but it still coated it nicely.

[salty]

It depends on where you live, salt amount and weather and how long you plan on owning your car.



Having worked at a used car dealership and seeing cars from across Canada, these are my thoughts.



In my area central/western Canada we experience cool to cold temps and normal road salt usage. So once it snows and the road salt is used it usually stays below melting and slush conditions. Though the last few years it has been warmer than usual. So an average car usually doesn`t show much underbody rust for the first 5 years.



When we would receive cars from eastern Canada, they would be OK for about 2 years then they would start to show rust. As they use more road salt and have more slushy conditions. Some would amaze me how much rusting was also under the hood.



In warmer temps the salt is more active, ie slush.



Of course this all depends on how well the cars are washed and the car manufacturer.

[David Fermani]

I wonder if vehicles parked near the coast in places along the Gulf of Maine / Atlantic ocean would benefit from rustproofing or are they doomed?

[RDAutosport]

I have to say I am a bit lost on the rust protection aspect. I got the paint part covered but what about underbody and all crevices that are not visible? Anyone has any idea if rust proofing is a good idea?



I dont want holes to be drilled and have to go back every year to those rust proofing shops. If possible, I want to avoid them. Arent the new vehicles manufactured nowadays so that they are corrosion/rust resistant for a long time?



There seems to be a lot of divided opinions out there... Also, my car is 2 years old so not sure what damage has already been done ... especially since vehicle rolls in salt/deicer slush for better part of winter.



The make and model would be helpful. Also, where you live.



Regards,



Rich

[Saintlysins]

I agree with RDAutosport asking for more info.



It helps all answers when your location is in your profile. There are so many variables that are weather (location) dependent and knowing this will always help your answers.

Looking forward to your info.



Thanks,

[Sal_Seth]

The make and model would be helpful. Also, where you live.



Regards,



Rich





Vehicle in question is 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS and location is Toronto, ON (the salt capital of Canada eh?).

[Accumulator]

I didn`t rustproof my MPV, and it gets used all winter. After nine years it has minor surface rust in places underneath, and it needed one rust repair in the inner portion of the front passenger door (manufacturing defect that Mazda won`t acknowledge, very common). Would rustproofing have prevented this corrosion? Probably *if it was done right*. Would it have mattered? Nah...the door was a who-woulda-thunk-it and the stuff underneath only bothers a nut like me. Ten years from now it still won`t be a real issue.



But note that I clean the undercarriage *thoroughly* at *every* wash. So the salt/etc. isn`t there for long.



IMO/IME the big question here is how the rustproofing will be applied.



I take *forever* to do this...reaching up into crevices/etc. with long nozzles to get into places that I suspect more people would never treat. I take off interior panels to access the crimped/welded seams in liftgates/etc.



Spray up into frame rails but don`t block/clog the drain holes (also important in doors/hatches/etc.). Here again, you`ll need a long applicator; you can`t just spray it from a regular aerosol can`s nozzle.



And I don`t spray rustproofing on areas that don`t need it. I don`t clog drain holes or cover up things that need serviced/inspected.



Under the hood, I don`t bother; I just keep things cleaned/detailed and I never get any rust there. I wax/seal many suspension parts and I keep those clean, so I don`t rustproof most of those areas either.

[salty]

If you live in Toronto and are worried why not check out Krown. It should be around $100. The application is only as good as the applicator, so check the web for references.

[Yuri2002]

Here`s my rustproofing for NH winter. I heard this from an old timer from Maine. I used boiled linseed oil on the underside of my vehicles, well carefully not to spray the exhaust pipes and gas tank. We will see how my vehicles hold on this winter :laugh: