jeweling technique

[Bunky]

Is jeweling with PO85RD achieved with slow hand speed, light pressure, and high machine (DA class) speed?



Merry Christmas.

[Rickrack]

Al, check out this thread.



Lots of good info... Merry Xmas!!



http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/108187-jeweling-paint.html

[Bunky]

I had seen that link but it was primarily about using a rotary. I see words like "massage" and lower speed (had seen comments about high speed for DA in othher posts).

[Todd@RUPES]

By DA do you mean a Dual Action like a Flex or an orbital like a Porter Cable?

[Bunky]

PC class but if different for a flex it would not hurt to know for future reference..

[Accumulator]

I do my jeweling/burnishing via Cyclo, but I`ll probably try it with the Flex some time. I don`t do it via PC very often, and on *some* paints you`ll have to be careful to pick the right pad/product combo or the PC might not give the greatest results (or so I hear).



My $0.02- Use a pad with zero cut, let the product do all the work. Choose a product that`s *almost* functionally nonabrasive, something far too mild to do real correction (do all the correction before you start this process, don`t leave obvious flaws with the idea that you`ll "finish removing them" during the burnishing).



Note that other people approach this differently and combine their final correction (e.g., light hologram removal) with the jeweling.



I would *not* apply much pressure to the machine, again, the idea is to let the product do the *very minimal* polishing that`s involved.



How fast you move the machine, and what speed/etc. you use will, IME, depend on the combined variables; seems like every machine/pad/product/situation combo calls for a certain machine speed (not an issue with the Cyclo ;) but with the PC I`d stick with 5 or 6) and a proper hand/motion speed (don`t overwork the product, don`t move so fast that it doesn`t break down uniformly, don`t try to cover too large an area at once).



I use very little product and basically work it until it nearly disappears, but *that`s with the products I use and on my paint*. Some products, even very mild ones, need to be buffed off damp/wet or they`ll cause micromarring...depends on the product and how hard/soft your paint is.



Example of what I do follows. Note that other products might be used in a *very* different manner.



On the Audis (hard clear), I first get them as close to perfect as I`m willing (nothing left but residual marring from RIDS that are IMO too deep to remove completely). Then I use the Cyclo with blue Sonus finishing pads and 1Z High Gloss (I suggest you use something milder on softer paints).



I rub enough 1Z HG into the pads to uniformly lubricate/prime them and from then on I use a tiny bit of polish for each area, just enough to keep the pads from drying out (I guess "almost pea-size" is pretty close, and remember that the Cyclo has two pads). As I add new polish, I try to distribute it evenly across the pads; I don`t just put one big drop in the middle.



I go over a fairly small area (enough for the amount of polish on the pads) until the 1Z HG is pretty much "worked away to nothing" on the panel. At that point the *pads* still have some moisture in them; I *DO NOT* work things until the pads dry out! And I clean the pads frequently with a cotton towel and Meg`s #34 so they don`t get caked with old polish. I keep the pads very clean.



With the polish pretty much worked away to nothing, the minimal polish residue is easily wiped away with a plush MF, though I usually fog the surface with my breath before wiping. There isn`t much inspection to be done other than making sure all the product residue is gone; the improvement is so subtle that it isn`t obvious that I`ve done anything.