First Timer - Do I have this right?

[ShadyKidd]

I recently purchased a 2004 Acura TL (graphite gray), and I would like to perform a complete detail of the car. I have done a considerable amount of research, and I would just like some of the detailing experts to make sure I am not missing anything. I do not want to cut corners, but I would like to keep this cost-effective as possible. In bold are two of my particuliar concerns.



Step 1: Wash/Clean/Protect the wheels, rims, and undercarriage. I plan on using a micro fiber drill attachment with some aluminum polish compound since I have some rather deep scratches on a few of my rims.



Step 2: Wash car. I have read several `How To` articles, and I think I have the safe, effective car wash method down. I will probably use Meg`s NXT wash.



Step 3: Dry car. I plan on using a large waffle-style draw towel. Walmart sells an Armor-All giant waffle towel for $7. I know to stay away from most Armor-All products, but this should be safe for drying, right?



Step 4: Clay. I will be using Meg`s clay kit with the QD as lube.



Step 5: Use StratchX on any scratchs or swirl marks. Is this step worth my effort on anything but very slight scratches?



Step 6: ??Polish?? I question this because at this time I am not willing to purchase a $100+ orbital buffer. From my understanding, most hand-polishing techniques are a waste of time. I am afraid that claying will reveal/create many more swirl marks, which then will require me to machine polish. Any thoughts on this step?



Step 7: Wax. I plan on using NXT 2.0. Should I rewash my car before waxing? I will also wax my rims, as I read this will greatly help repel break dust.



Interior: I plan on using Meg`s interior detailing spray on the vinyl, a damp rag on most of the instrument panels and interior chrome, and Meg`s leather cleaner/conditioner spray on the seats and door leather. I do not want an overly shiny/greasy dash or seats. Will I be satisfied with these products?



Well that is the plan that I have come up with. I have been leaning towards using mostly Meg`s products, simply because they seem to be the best quality for an affordable price. Like I said, I am fairly confident I have the individual processes down, but step 6, the polish step, has me concerned. I would greatly appreciate any input. Thanks!

[Accumulator]

Welcome to Autopia! My $0.02 follows.






I recently purchased a 2004 Acura TL (graphite gray), and I would like to perform a complete detail of the car. ... In bold are two of my particuliar concerns.



Step 1: Wash/Clean/Protect the wheels, rims, and undercarriage. I plan on using a micro fiber drill attachment with some aluminum polish compound since I have some rather deep scratches on a few of my rims...



I dunno about usint the aluminum polish as most wheels are clearcoated and that polish will damage the clear that`s (still) around the deep scratches. I`d get some paint/clear for wheels and try to do some spot repairs of the damaged areas that way.





To be honest, I use damaged wheels for winter duty and try to find cheap OK-condition ones for nice weather, rather than working too hard at fixing the messed up ones.




Step 2: Wash car. I have read several `How To` articles, and I think I have the safe, effective car wash method down. I will probably use Meg`s NXT wash.



Step 3: Dry car. I plan on using a large waffle-style draw towel. Walmart sells an Armor-All giant waffle towel for $7. I know to stay away from most Armor-All products, but this should be safe for drying, right?



Make sure your wash and dry media pass the CD-test (test the wash media wet with shampoo), if they don`t scratch the data side of a CD they probably won`t scratch your paint.



Washing without marring is very difficult IME.




Step 4: Clay. I will be using Meg`s clay kit with the QD as lube.



OK. I`m not familiar with the Meg`s clay kit, but if it`s like the Mother`s and ClayMagic blue stuff it oughta be OK and if used correctly shouldn`t induce marring.




Step 5: Use StratchX on any scratchs or swirl marks. Is this step worth my effort on anything but very slight scratches?



IMO Scratch-X is too mild and too labor-intensive for the results it gives. See below...




Step 6: ??Polish?? I question this because at this time I am not willing to purchase a $100+ orbital buffer. From my understanding, most hand-polishing techniques are a waste of time. I am afraid that claying will reveal/create many more swirl marks, which then will require me to machine polish. Any thoughts on this step?





If you clay correctly, with the right clay, you shouldn`t get any marring. At least nothing that will add to your difficulties when polishing the car anyhow. I simply dunno from the Meg`s clay :nixweiss The Mother`s is OK and I hear the ClayMagic is too.



Polishing without a machine is tough, but you *can* get decent results if you`re willing to put in the effort. My hands-down recommendation is 1Z Paint Polish (sources: Home (http://www.exceldetail.com/) or Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing, Auto Detailing Supplies, Auto Detailing Equipment, Auto Detailing Products, & Auto Detailing Accessories for all your Automobile Detailing (http://www.pakshak.com/index.html) ). I`d skip the Scratch-X (and any other Meguiar`s product like that) and just use the 1Z. No other brand I`d even consider doing by hand.




Step 7: Wax. I plan on using NXT 2.0. Should I rewash my car before waxing? I will also wax my rims, as I read this will greatly help repel break dust.



If you use the 1Z it`ll leave wax behind, so you can wait to apply the "real" wax until after the next wash. Which will probably be a relief as you`ll be tuckered out after doing all the polishing ;)



But if you want to NXT after polishing you shouldn`t need to rewash the car unless dust/etc. gets on it. Any polish residue should be buffed off, so it`ll be clean when you finish that step. Spritzing a QD and giving it a wipe with a *VERY* soft MF might not be a bad idea though...just to make sure no dust/etc. settled on it.



Waxing the wheels is good, but then you`ll need to wash them with carwash shampoo instead of wheel cleaner lest the latter clean off the wax along with the brake dust.




Interior: I plan on using Meg`s interior detailing spray on the vinyl, a damp rag on most of the instrument panels and interior chrome, and Meg`s leather cleaner/conditioner spray on the seats and door leather. I do not want an overly shiny/greasy dash or seats. Will I be satisfied with these products?



Probably. The Meg`s Interior QD stuff is a *very* nice product IMO. I use it on a dry MF- spray the Int. QD on, wipe it off.




Well that is the plan that I have come up with. I have been leaning towards using mostly Meg`s products, simply because they seem to be the best quality for an affordable price. Like I said, I am fairly confident I have the individual processes down, but step 6, the polish step, has me concerned. I would greatly appreciate any input. Thanks!



Repeating yet again for emphasis: the 1Z Paint Polish will outperform the Meg`s when working by hand (and I`d rather use it by machine too). I have the usual Meg`s suggestions on the shelf (e.g., #80) for comparison too ;) Get the 1Z. I myself would top it with Collinite brand wax instead of the NXT...*MUCH* better durability.



Sorry for the hard-sell on those products, but IMO/IME working by hand greatly limits the number of feasible approaches.

[pwaug]

Claying will not induce additional marring if done correctly, but is necessary to remove imbedded surface contaminets before polishing. If you don`t clay you run the risk of marring from the surface contaminents.



ScratchX will take 3 or 4 applications to remove swirl marks by hand. If you are going to do it by hand use Megs M105 with a MF applicator--should only take one application for light to moderate swirls. Then apply a coat of ColorX with some passion on the pad and you will be surprised at the quality of the finish. It`s going to be allot of work by hand, but worth it. You could do one panel a day which would stretch out the work and allow you to concentrate on that panel until you get it the way you want. Check the Megs Online website in the "Working by Hand" forum for some detailed info.

[qwertydude]

Scratch-x is weak M105 on the other hand is in my opinion a true hand applicable scratch and defect remover. Also makes a good first step polish. For my own uses I only use M105 then go directly to wax. It finishes very fine but when you spray water on the panel and go over it again with the "depleted" polish it finishes off even finer.