Chip Repair / Primer Questions

[DownFlyer]

I read that Paint Clinic (http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/80224-paint-clinic.html) article and it was very helpful. But I have a few extra questions:



1. My car has at least 1 chip where the metal is exposed. Previously I just got touch-up stick and put a couple of layers of the paint into the chip with no primer underneath. It`s still pretty obviously visible and ugly, but at least the metal is not exposed.



Do I now have to remove this touch-up paint and put down primer? If so, how do I get out the existing paint that`s in the chip? Will sanding do the trick?



2. Where do I get primer? And are there different kinds/grades of primer that might be specific to different cars/models? (I drive a Mazda6.)



3. I have some long&thin horizontal scratches on my bumper that are totally my fault due to clipping a snow bank last winter. Is the process basically the same? Fill with paint and then wet-sand it down and then buff it out? Is there anything special about tackling something like this?



4 In the final stage of the repair when you wet-sand down the excess paint and then re-buff the surface, do you need a powered buffer? Or can I do that by hand with a microfiber towel?



5. When buffing out the surface after sanding it down, can Meguiar`s Scratch-X be used to smoothen it out? Or is that the wrong kind of product? (I have some of this already so I`m hoping to save some cash.) What exactly qualifies a product for buffing out the wet-sanded surface?

[DownFlyer]

Anyone? :think: Even answers to a portion of these would be appreciated...

[salty]

1. Bare metal should be primed first. Lacquer Thinner and others solvents will remove the paint.



2. Can. Tire has the Dupli-Color chip and scratch repair kit. It comes with primer/filler and putty and some sandpaper and polish. Primer is not specific in small chip repair.



3. Basically the same idea but if through the paint down to plastic you might have a problem getting the primer/paint to adhere if subjected to pressure washer etc.



If possible try and sand in the chip or scratch to make the primer adhere better, same goes for the paint.



If the scratches are not deep and or thin you might have an easier time to wetsand, polish out and then a thin line of paint. Not perfect but usually not noticeable from a few feet a way.



4. 2000 grit can be done by hand but try and find 2500 grit or finer to finish.



5. Never used Scratch-X but i think it should work with a little work. You might have to find something finer to finish marr free.



Be careful when sanding and good luck.

[DownFlyer]

Thanks for your responses...






5. Never used Scratch-X but i think it should work with a little work. You might have to find something finer to finish marr free.

I am still trying to understand the concept behind this polishing step. What exactly qualifies something as a polish to be used after wet-sanding with 2000+ grit sandpaper? Can you give me some examples of products that are good for this so I can research them and understand more about the intent of this step and what it is trying to accomplish?



Just trying to learn and be more self-sufficient here...

[Legacy]

Thanks for your responses...





I am still trying to understand the concept behind this polishing step. What exactly qualifies something as a polish to be used after wet-sanding with 2000+ grit sandpaper? Can you give me some examples of products that are good for this so I can research them and understand more about the intent of this step and what it is trying to accomplish?



Just trying to learn and be more self-sufficient here...



Most compounds and polishes will indicate what grit it can remove. As an example, Menzerna`s Power gloss will remove 1,000 grit marks. SIP will remove 2,000 grit etc. The size of the abrasive in the polish will dictate what grit it can remove. The lower the grit the more aggressive polish will be needed. Most sanding marks will require 2-3 steps to finish down lsp ready.

[Cassman]

1. Bare metal should be primed first. Lacquer Thinner and others solvents will remove the paint.



2. Can. Tire has the Dupli-Color chip and scratch repair kit. It comes with primer/filler and putty and some sandpaper and polish. Primer is not specific in small chip repair.



3. Basically the same idea but if through the paint down to plastic you might have a problem getting the primer/paint to adhere if subjected to pressure washer etc.



If possible try and sand in the chip or scratch to make the primer adhere better, same goes for the paint.



If the scratches are not deep and or thin you might have an easier time to wetsand, polish out and then a thin line of paint. Not perfect but usually not noticeable from a few feet a way.



4. 2000 grit can be done by hand but try and find 2500 grit or finer to finish.



5. Never used Scratch-X but i think it should work with a little work. You might have to find something finer to finish marr free.



Be careful when sanding and good luck.





I just used 2500 unigrit sandpaper for a touch up I did. I easily removed the wetsanding marks with scratch-x. I intend to polish the whole panel later, but I used the Scratch-X as a temporary fix and i was surprised at how well it worked.

[ZoomBoy]

Sorry to hijack this thread but I`ve always wondered.



Can I apply a "blob" of touch up paint to a stone chip, let it dry and then polish it down so it matches the factory finish?



My girlfriends black Hyundai had a large scratch on back which she repaired pretty badly with the touch-up pen (I have a paint brush for my Honda).



When I was polishing over the spot on her car I basically smoothed it out with my UDM and an orange pad + some elbow grease to a point where you can`t even see it was repaired.



Would this same technique work on my hood, etc?

[ZoomBoy]

Bumping the post!

[DownFlyer]

Sorry to hijack this thread but I`ve always wondered.



Can I apply a "blob" of touch up paint to a stone chip, let it dry and then polish it down so it matches the factory finish?



My girlfriends black Hyundai had a large scratch on back which she repaired pretty badly with the touch-up pen (I have a paint brush for my Honda).



When I was polishing over the spot on her car I basically smoothed it out with my UDM and an orange pad + some elbow grease to a point where you can`t even see it was repaired.



Would this same technique work on my hood, etc?



Some chip repair guides do actually instruct you to just put down a big "blob" and then sand it down.

[DownFlyer]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I got the primer, lacquer thinner and sandpaper today. Will let you all know how it goes.