what compound to use?

[wascallyrabbit]

I have 4" orange and green pads for my pc and am need of a compound to remove water spots from my wife`s car. the spots seem to be only on the hood and roof. have been using rmg in the past, but didn`t have water spots like this. what would be some products to consider?

[wannafbody]

Megs 95

3m 3000 RC

[Accumulator]

wascallyrabbit- Be realistic about the chances of complete removal; the etching on my wife`s A8 didn`t come out even with aggressive rotary work, ditto for the etching on the Denali XL and that one was subjected to some *VERY* aggressive rotary work with twisted wool pads and the harshest compounds.



I greatly prefer the 3.5" LC PWF pads over the 4" foam (see my thread about the little wool pads).



The most aggressive stuff I`ve used by PC is 1Z Intensive (it`ll require a follow-up).

[SuperBee364]

wascallyrabbit- Be realistic about the chances of complete removal; the etching on my wife`s A8 didn`t come out even with aggressive rotary work, ditto for the etching on the Denali XL and that one was subjected to some *VERY* aggressive rotary work with twisted wool pads and the harshest compounds.



I greatly prefer the 3.5" LC PWF pads over the 4" foam (see my thread about the little wool pads).



The most aggressive stuff I`ve used by PC is 1Z Intensive (it`ll require a follow-up).



Every time I read an Accumulator post about liking the 3.5" PFW`s, I grin a little... :D ... see?

[wascallyrabbit]

wascallyrabbit- Be realistic about the chances of complete removal; the etching on my wife`s A8 didn`t come out even with aggressive rotary work, ditto for the etching on the Denali XL and that one was subjected to some *VERY* aggressive rotary work with twisted wool pads and the harshest compounds.



I greatly prefer the 3.5" LC PWF pads over the 4" foam (see my thread about the little wool pads).



The most aggressive stuff I`ve used by PC is 1Z Intensive (it`ll require a follow-up).



i don`t really expect complete removal of the etching but am interested in a least minimizing it. read the purple wool thread i`ll probably buy a couple just haven`t decided what compound to use with it yet. maybe 1z. if i use 1z can i follow it with something like rmg or dwg?

[Envious Eric]

megs 83, menzerna IP, optimum compound

menzerna power gloss, hi-temp extreme cut, megs 105



use all on the orange pad, then use a lesser compound to remove the haze, then use the green with your RMG (glaze)

[E300Diesel]

don`t forget Optimum Hyper Compund!

[Envious Eric]

i forgot it because I really dont care for it...long working time, but less results than the rest of the big hitters

[Accumulator]

i don`t really expect complete removal of the etching but am interested in a least minimizing it. read the purple wool thread i`ll probably buy a couple just haven`t decided what compound to use with it yet. maybe 1z. if i use 1z can i follow it with something like rmg or dwg?



I myself would wetsand with 2K (or finer) Meguiar`s/Nikken Unigrit, *just a tiny bit*, enough to just take the gloss off the paint. *THEN* use the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW. As long as you don`t overdo it with the paper it`ll go fine (voice of experience). The 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW combo is great on 2K-3K sanding scratches and the wetsanding will do more leveling of the etching with *less* overall clearcoat thinning (compared to just going over it more times with compound, which just never does that much for etching IMO).



You will need to follow the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW with 1Z Intensive on a 4" foam pad (I recommend a polishing pad).



After you finish the work with the Intensive, you need to use a medium-strength abrasive polish, *NOT* something like RMG/DWG. I recommend 1Z Paint Polish. That`ll leave things ready-to-wax.



Don`t try to skip that final (medium-abrasive) polishing or it simply won`t look very good. You need more abrasion, not just glazing.



The above approach really is just *SO* user-friendly...with all the stuff I have in the shop (with which I have more experience), this has instantly become my (new) standard recommendation. It`s simply a no-brainer IMO.

[Rob Tomlin]

I myself would wetsand with 2K (or finer) Meguiar`s/Nikken Unigrit, *just a tiny bit*, enough to just take the gloss off the paint. *THEN* use the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW. As long as you don`t overdo it with the paper it`ll go fine (voice of experience). The 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW combo is great on 2K-3K sanding scratches and the wetsanding will do more leveling of the etching with *less* overall clearcoat thinning (compared to just going over it more times with compound, which just never does that much for etching IMO).



You will need to follow the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW with 1Z Intensive on a 4" foam pad (I recommend a polishing pad).



After you finish the work with the Intensive, you need to use a medium-strength abrasive polish, *NOT* something like RMG/DWG. I recommend 1Z Paint Polish. That`ll leave things ready-to-wax.



Don`t try to skip that final (medium-abrasive) polishing or it simply won`t look very good. You need more abrasion, not just glazing.



The above approach really is just *SO* user-friendly...with all the stuff I have in the shop (with which I have more experience), this has instantly become my (new) standard recommendation. It`s simply a no-brainer IMO.



Nice post Mr. Accumulator! :)

[wascallyrabbit]

for the 1Z Intensive is it the one from the pro line "Pasta Intensiv" and the Paint Polish the one in the green can "Lack Politur". And would the paint polish be suitable to use a couple times a year for general polishing and light swirl removal before glazing and lsp? or is there something different you would use for paint cleaning?

[imported_mburnickas]

Use optimum compound and their Hyper...love um!

[Accumulator]

for the 1Z Intensive is it the one from the pro line "Pasta Intensiv" and the Paint Polish the one in the green can "Lack Politur". ..



Yeah, that`s right.
And would the paint polish be suitable to use a couple times a year for general polishing and light swirl removal before glazing and lsp? or is there something different you would use for paint cleaning?





You could probably use the Paint Polish/Lack Politur a few times a year, but I`d rather no myself (note I keep some cars for decades and I`m simply paranoid about thinning clear).



A milder alternative woud be to use the 1Z High Gloss or their Metallic Polish with Wax. The latter is *especially* mild, sorta just a high-end cleaner-wax. You could use the MPwW as often as you like and never have to worry. It`s also about the most user-friendly polish every made ;)



Top the Paint Polish and Metallic Polish with Wax with a *wax* as opposed to a sealant; they leave some natural/synthetic blend wax behind and many sealants don`t bond to it.

[wascallyrabbit]

was really leaning towards something that could be top with UPGP as I already have this. i like the idea of using a polish/paint cleaner before RMG or DWG then LSP with UPGP. Was orignially thinking of using Zaino but will be using UPGP instead. was thinking thinking of using AIO/Z-AIO or Danase pure polish for polishing/paint cleaning a couple times a year.

[Accumulator]

was really leaning towards something that could be top with UPGP as I already have this. i like the idea of using a polish/paint cleaner before RMG or DWG then LSP with UPGP.



Then I`d finish with the 1Z High Gloss (doesn`t leave stuff behind, maybe some polishing oils if you use a lot of product.. no biggie to clean off). The 1Z Intensive followed by 1Z High Gloss is effective and user-friendly.