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93zder
05-16-2008, 05:28 AM
I`ve got 2 coats of NXT on my Nissan Murano Platinum metallic paint. I was thinking of adding a coat of Mothers Canauba in hopes that it will help the paint pop.



Anyone think this would work?



Recommendations on what i could do?



thanks

Macruz19
05-16-2008, 06:09 AM
Try Megs UQD.

distrbd
05-16-2008, 06:32 AM
I`ve got 2 coats of NXT on my Nissan Murano Platinum metallic paint. I was thinking of adding a coat of Mothers Canauba in hopes that it will help the paint pop.



Anyone think this would work?



Recommendations on what i could do?



thanks



I don`t think you`ll see a noticeable difference using Mother`s pure carnuba,if you want your metallic paint to pop,try Duragloss #105 ,in my experience it`s one of the best sealants for metallic paint

Some top #105 with carnuba for extra shine/depth but that would be a personal preference.

wannafbody
05-16-2008, 07:49 AM
I always found that the original NXT muted flake. Funny but I found that ColorX didn`t. I`d suggest stripping it and trying Mothers FX, Duragloss or Zaino.

93zder
05-16-2008, 07:56 AM
How about the NXT 2.1 (2nd generation)? Is it better for metallic paint? Or even better at all than the original stuff?



I also have some E1 Nano spray wax i will try this weekend.

Accumulator
05-16-2008, 08:54 AM
IME adding a wax to an existing LSP isn`t likely to *add* to metallic pop, but is rather more likely to further *mute* it. The fewer things between the paint and your eye the better the pop is likely to be IMO.



FWIW, the best LSP I`ve ever used for this is UPP. I`d expect a "light sealant" (as opposed to, say, a "heavy wax") to be best for this.



But I`ve found that (same old story), most of the pop comes from the prep. Micromarring that`s fine enough to be basically invisible will still refract the light just enough to make metallic paint look less-than-wonderful. When I`m certain I have a metallic paint marring-free (and that can mean a *LONG TIME* spent inspecting under numerous lighting conditions), I give it some final burnishing with a finishing pad/polish combo, and *that* is what makes the metallic really pop IME.

93zder
05-16-2008, 09:08 AM
That makes sense to me. I have clayed the entire vehicle and cleaned/prepped with Mothers step one pre-wax cleaner, which i think helped. But i know there is some room for improvement there as i dont have a rotary although i do have some PB 2.5 i would like to use on it.

Bunky
05-16-2008, 09:28 AM
I always found that the original NXT muted flake. Funny but I found that ColorX didn`t. I`d suggest stripping it and trying Mothers FX, Duragloss or Zaino.



I used Mothers FX and Mothers Top Coat on a dark blue metallic paint recently. I liked the end result. The flake popping really adds character to the appearance.

Accumulator
05-16-2008, 10:12 AM
That makes sense to me. ..But i know there is some room for improvement ...



See if you can find some really unforgiving lighting so you can give the car a merciless inspection. A big challenge with metallics is simply seeing what`s really going on with the clear.



That SSR2.5 oughta help a lot, and I wouldn`t be surprised if a final polishing with something milder gave you better pop too. As soon as my silver cars look (basically/realistically) perfect, I know they`re about 80% of the way to where I want them.

93zder
05-16-2008, 10:47 AM
Could someone recommend a good rotary for SR`s and polishing? And where can i get one for a good price?



Right now i only have a cordless (battery powered) 4" polisher. I`m happy wiht it for waxing as it reduces the strain vs. hand waxing. It`s not cutting it when it comes to my PB SSR2.5 though.



thanks

imported_Chris223
05-16-2008, 11:18 AM
For OTC waxes, TWPUG liquid I thought always did a really nice job making my silver metallic paint pop. As did Gold Class. I just stopped using them because of durability and I wanted more of a wet look rather than flake pop.

Accumulator
05-17-2008, 03:59 PM
Could someone recommend a good rotary for SR`s and polishing? And where can i get one for a good price?



Right now i only have a cordless (battery powered) 4" polisher. ..



I`d get some kind of random orbital/dual-action polisher first and *then* consider a rotary. You`ll need the former if (more like *when*) the rotary leaves you with holograms anyhow.



PC/UDM/Flex/Cyclo...no idea how to get the best price though :nixweiss