problems with poli-seal

[imported_paradigm]

i tried poli-seal for the first time today and had to stop after three sections. i was using my hitachi w/ a blue edge 2000 pad...spread at 600 or so...worked at 1500 (at the most) and then back down to 600 for the final pass.



the product seemed to polish out fine, but when i looked closer after wiping the section down, there were dry blotches of product everywhere. they were VERY difficult to wipe away, requiring ONR QD and some elbow grease. i tried to vary the working time and also the amount of product, but kept getting the same blotches.



i switched to a white edge 2000 pad and FPII to redo everything...that worked perfectly (as always).



temperature was perfect...low humidity and about 60F, in my garage.



thoughts?

[imported_etml12]

IME, when you combine the heat generated by the rotary and too much PS it will gum up just as you have described. As long as the pad feels moist with product, that is all you need.

[zaxjax]

I used Poli-Seal today, and like etml12 said, you have to mist your pad to keep it from gumming up.

[imported_paradigm]

thanks for the replies. i did try misting the pad as well...i guess i used too much product. i used less than i thought i should to begin with. must need a super tiny amount...i`ll retry on my other car and see how it goes.

[a.k.a. Patrick]

If Im not mistaken, PS was designed for use by hand, originally. It might not be the perfect product for rotary, although I know of a lot of people who swear by it with a PC/UDM.

I know of one lad in Canada who uses it as a base for all of his details. (Using a PC)

[imported_Bence]

zaxjax, not mist, mOist...



IMO an average pad needs more OPS than for example other Optimum polishes, but definitely not that much that it can gum up. I don`t spritz my pads either.



So, if you feel that the pad is damp, moist with the product, but you can`t see it on the surface, you are using the correct amount. And it works great with the rotary!

[BlackElantraGT]

I`ve experienced this before with Poli-Seal and from my experiences, it seems to gum up when too much product is used and when the pad becomes loaded with product/contaminants.

[DSVWGLI]

Unless I`m prepping a new car with next to no marring and I`m looking for a one step polish and seal, I don`t use PS. I think it a good product for that use but it dosen`t come close to FPII or 106FF which are far better finishing polishes. Every black vehicle I detail is finished with one of those polishes.

[Scottwax]

Keep speeds under 1200 and clean the pad every 3-4 panels to prevent product build-up.

[imported_DJ Mayo]

like Scott said, don`t work PS at over 1200-1300. Keep the pad clean as well. I love poli-seal and use it on 85% of the cars I do.

[Envious Eric]

too much heat...I dont work in poliseal per say....



I ALWAYS use it on a white or orange pad via PC...I see no benefit of using a rotary with it as the results on a side by side were the same with just one overlapping pass with the pc side...up/down, right/left, up/down, right left on the PC, and up/down, right/left on the rotary...all 1/2 overlapping passes...



remove with OCW and you will have one slick finish

[abbeysdad]

LSP with a rotary? I`d think you`d want really low speeds and not `work` the product too much. One of the advantages of applying LSP by machine is better results with less product (so as the others suggested, maybe you were a bit heavy on product?)



Also, even though I just use a pc, I like to quickly spread product evenly over a panel or panel section with a hand held applicator, then use the pc set at about 5. This allows me to keep the pc on speed 5, ensures a very even use of product, keeps product out of crevices and has absolutely no sling.



I think I`ll try an experiment today with the PC using an MF bonnet over a wool pad to apply a topper layer of DG AW. (I did the spring detail [ONR wash, clay, OP, DG 105] last week-end)

[Junebug]

The best combo I`ve found was PS on a white LC 5.5" low profile pad at speed 4. I had the same experince as the OP with my makita.

[imported_Bence]

abbeysdad, OPS is not necessarily an LSP, although it can be applied as LSP. It is basically a very fine finishing polish enriched with synthetics and carnauba, so it will give its own protection (1-3 months). Because of the waxes, it will give a deeper finish than a finishing polish alone.



BTW, LSPs can be applied via rotary, I` doing it quite often, especially with Meg`s #21, 845, etc.



OPS is is sensitive to overapplication, when the pad gets saturated with the product on the exact same spot - so if you apply it to the pad, don`t choose the same points/circle where you already put the product for the previous loads. Picking it up from the surface is also a good technique, because it distributes the product on the pad more evenly.

[abbeysdad]

abbeysdad, OPS is not necessarily an LSP, although it can be applied as LSP. It is basically a very fine finishing polish enriched with synthetics and carnauba, so it will give its own protection (1-3 months). Because of the waxes, it will give a deeper finish than a finishing polish alone.



BTW, LSPs can be applied via rotary, I` doing it quite often, especially with Meg`s #21, 845, etc.



OPS is is sensitive to overapplication, when the pad gets saturated with the product on the exact same spot - so if you apply it to the pad, don`t choose the same points/circle where you already put the product for the previous loads. Picking it up from the surface is also a good technique, because it distributes the product on the pad more evenly.Maybe splitting hairs, but you sure make it sound like an LSP with abrasives. It would seem to me that one step products need differenciation from true polishes and sealants / waxes (LSP).



Btw, AW with the PC was a real drag (literally) so I quickly switched to doing the second coat by hand.