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View Full Version : What to use on repainted areas



imported_RedlineIRL
04-23-2008, 06:08 PM
From what I`ve heard freshly repainted areas cannot be waxed, sealed, or washed with any kind of wash that contains any kind of wax so it can gas out and harden. What should I use as far as washes and a possible glaze to keep bugs from sticking in the summer. I`ve been using Z7 in the past, but I will not be using it until the area is fully cured. I`ve also got some Meguairs deep crystal wash, is this ok to use? What can I use to keep the bugs from sticking and still allow the paint to gas out?

imported_RedlineIRL
04-24-2008, 07:35 PM
Anyone? I need some suggestions, I don`t want to mess up the curing process.

Eliot Ness
04-24-2008, 07:52 PM
For protection on new paint I like to use Meg`s #5 glaze. It`s very easy to use but you`ll want to reapply it pretty often, like after a wash or some heavy rain. The #5 will allow the new paint to cure while offering some protection.

David Fermani
04-24-2008, 07:56 PM
There`s mixed opinions about sealing in fresh paint. IMHO, there`s no real documented answer. I`ve spoken to several painters along with paint manufacturing reps and they all say different things. If your that concerned (which I`m sure you are based on the several threads you`ve posted on painting your bumper), I`d stay clear of any wax. Buy yourself some Meg`s 00 car wash soap and do it that way for 3 months. Then, after that, lightly polish any swirls out and seal it with your favorite flavor.



Did you have the bumper painted yet? If so, how did it come out?

VroomVroom
04-24-2008, 08:30 PM
Does the painter have any recommendations? One of the variables here is the curing time and method (i.e. temperature & humidity), right? The painter I use cures for 48 hours in a hot room and pronounces most everything ready for wax afterward. The exception is plastic pieces that receive adhesion promotor and/or flex primer.

David Fermani
04-24-2008, 09:33 PM
I`ve heard many opinions on many sides of the fence. Some claim because they baked the paintwork @ 165 degrees, that means the paint is 100% cured immediately. Some claim that even if this baking occurs, it still takes 2 days to completely outgas. Some claim it takes 30 days, some say 60days, some say 90 days. Who`s right??



When you get a painter`s or shop`s opinion, is that based on what they think (opinion?) or what the manufacturer thinks? The shop could be going off information fed to them 5 or more years ago and still think it`s the same recomendation which may or may not have changed. Most shops unfortunately don`t know the real answer or don`t really care.



VroomVroom: What does adhesion promoter or flex additives have to do with paint curing, especially on plastic parts? I`m interested in hearing more...

Joseph K
04-26-2008, 02:54 PM
What does adhesion promoter or flex additives have to do with paint curing, especially on plastic parts? I`m interested in hearing more...



Adhesion Promoter doesn`t have any from what I`ve heard from several professional painters... what I`ve always been told/read is that if it hasn`t been baked, you need to wait at least a month before applying wax. The guy I use also said even if it has been baked, he still likes to wait for a month before applying any wax.

Accumulator
04-26-2008, 04:04 PM
..[Accumulator just deleted his zillionth post about waxing/etc. repaints]..



As for the actual question that this thread is really all about: Off the top of my head, I`ve washed fresh repaints with Meg`s #62, #00, Gold Class, Griot`s Car Wash, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo, AutoInt`s "C" with no problems whatsoever. I`d be utterly astounded if Deep Crystal Wash caused any problems, but I don`t believe I`ve ever washed a fresh repaint with it.

imported_RedlineIRL
04-26-2008, 07:43 PM
There`s mixed opinions about sealing in fresh paint. IMHO, there`s no real documented answer. I`ve spoken to several painters along with paint manufacturing reps and they all say different things. If your that concerned (which I`m sure you are based on the several threads you`ve posted on painting your bumper), I`d stay clear of any wax. Buy yourself some Meg`s 00 car wash soap and do it that way for 3 months. Then, after that, lightly polish any swirls out and seal it with your favorite flavor.



Did you have the bumper painted yet? If so, how did it come out?

It`s getting done soon. I`m going to wait a full 3 months to make sure everything is cured properly.







Would ONR be safe to use during the curing process? This time of the year the bugs are really out and I have been using ONR daily between washes to get them off. This is why I`d like to use a glaze to keep the bug splatters from staining the paint. Is Meguiars #5 something that works well at keeping bugs from sticking?



How long should I wait before polishing, would it be best to wait the full 3 months on that also? Or should it be done before the paint fully hardens?

Accumulator
04-27-2008, 09:14 AM
It`s getting done soon. I`m going to wait a full 3 months to make sure everything is cured properly...



Smart move IME :xyxthumbs




Would ONR be safe to use during the curing process?



I would think so. The folks at Optimum even claim their OCW is safe for repaints; it`s supposedly OKed by Ford for post-production paintwork.




..Is Meguiars #5 something that works well at keeping bugs from sticking?



Eh...it`s not all that great in this regard but it`s a lot better than nothing.




How long should I wait before polishing, would it be best to wait the full 3 months on that also? Or should it be done before the paint fully hardens?





Depends on the marring. Generally, I like to wait a while so the paint hardens up (I`ve had fresh repaints that were too soft for Meg`s #80!) but sometimes the shop leaves such awful marring that I just can`t stand it and have to do something right away.



If you have to do significant correction, there`s a good argument for *not* waiting until the paint is as hard as it can get...it`ll simply be more work at that point.



But OTOH, you`ll probably end up doing a final polish after the curing period anyhow before you wax/seal, so just see if there`s anything you can`t live with that long.



Get it back and *then* make up your mind about polishing. And try to impress upon the shop that you *DO NOT* want it all marred up (heh heh, good luck with that :o ).

imported_RedlineIRL
04-29-2008, 07:37 PM
Incase anyone was wondering, I sent an email to Optimum to see if they reccomend using ONR on freshly painted surfaces. Here`s what I got.



"Thank you for your email and using Optimum Car Care products. Optimum No Rinse does not contain waxes, silicones, or sealants. The soy-based polymers are safer on new paint than detergents and will not affect the fresh paint or the curing process."





Soy-based?:nixweiss

Accumulator
04-30-2008, 09:59 AM
RedlineIRL- Heh heh, that "soy-based polymers" is a new one for me too :think: But, uhm, OK...sounds like it`s safe.