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David Fermani
04-22-2008, 09:45 PM
Here`s my take on hand cleaning/shampooing carpets:



1-CARPET PREP: Before getting any surface wet, dry brush the carpet with a stiff brush (brass bristled brushes work great) to loosen up any ground in dirt. If you don`t, alot of this dirt will stay at the bottom of the nap and will make it even more difficult to remove once it`s wet. Then vacuum and if possible blow out with compressed air. Alot of times this step by itself can make a carpet look 75% better.



2-PRE-SPOT STAINS: Identifying the different types of stains you’re attempting to remove is key. 1st treat oil/grease-based stains with a solvent-based cleaner. If you do this after the carpet/stain is wet, you`ll have a hard time penetrating the stain to dissolve it (think of it as mixing oil & water). Then, treat food/protein-based stains with an enzyme-based cleaner and allow to dwell for several minutes (more the better). Then, treat other stains/dirt with an APC (alkaline water based) cleaner. *note: after treating each type of stain with cleaner, agitate area with carpet brush to work in solution* Vacuum treated area slowly concentrating on pulling/lifting the stain away with the suction of the vacuum. Next, towel (cotton) the area, lifting more of the contaminants out and into the towel. If needed, wrap towel around brush as this will help pull out even more ground in soil, wetness & spent cleaning solution.



3-SHAMPOO: Mix recommended shampoo concentrate with 1-2 gallons of hot water into 5 gallon bucket and vigorously agitate to create extensive suds. Submerge HD GS or wash mitt of choice into bucket and scoop out enough suds to cover 2 X 2 area of carpet. Work suds into carpet and then scrub with carpet brush to penetrate into fabric. (after you stop, you`ll actually see dirt rising to top of bubbles). *this is where I feel a dedicated carpet shapoo this is high sudsing will out perform an alertaive product* Then, slowly vacuum carpet concentrating on lifting out as much wetness/dirt as possible. Towel dry area until all remaining soiling, chemicals & wetness are gone.



4-DRYING It’s essential that floor mats not be installed over damp carpet! Instruct client to take mats out of car (if wet). Make sure the mats as well at the carpet are 100% dry before re-installation back into vehicle to avoid mold/odor. Remember: mold grows in dark, warm, wet places that don’t have much airflow. Avoid using heat to dry carpets. If any dirt is still remaining in carpets, heat will cause carpets to brown and turn stiff. Use medium cool air (all doors open) for as long as possible to insure all fabric is 100% dry. If needed, towel carpets continuously to speed up drying process. *Using a dedicated floor/carpet drying machine will dramatically minimize dry time*. After carpets are dry, you *can* fluff carpet with damp towel (either with plain water or window cleaner) and/or carpet brush.

twitch
04-22-2008, 09:54 PM
Thank you David for taking the time to post your process.



I appreciate it! :cool:



I do have a question. Do you ever find it beneficial to hose the mats out? If I have a vehicle long enough I find this process works well to rinse out all of the solution used to clean the mat. I hang dry them over night, in the morning pull more water out with the vacuum (which is usually only at the bottom since it`s been hanging over night), and sit them in the sun to dry. I`ve done this only twice but the results were excellent. Do you see any problem with this?

imported_Denzil
04-22-2008, 09:54 PM
Thanks for sharing your process David!



Bookmarked!

imported_themightytimmah
04-22-2008, 11:48 PM
Dave`s process works great for carpets - it really doesn`t give up anything to a LGCM and a whole lot to an extractor, except on seats.



Having a couple terry towels around to wipe thoroughly with after shampooing is key, though.

imported_DieselMDX
04-23-2008, 12:06 AM
wow this should be a sticky or hall of fame





what products do u recommend David?

Todd@RUPES
04-23-2008, 12:20 AM
Great thread!, thanks for sharing some of your secrets. Do you have any suggestions for various cleaners (organic, solvent, APC) that have given you consitent results over the years?



Do you use Folex and what do you think of that?



Thanks again, great thread :D

Mark77
04-23-2008, 01:36 AM
Isn`t vacuuming after the first step important? . Don`t you try to get rid of the soap and suds before drying. I guess it`s hard without an extractor but a wet/dry vac could help alot also in both steps. Just my .02

imported_Denzil
04-23-2008, 02:05 AM
He did mention that...

Driven Auto Detail
04-23-2008, 06:38 AM
Nice write-up David. I too would like to hear your recommendations for products, particularly the shampoo.

Pats300zx
04-23-2008, 08:52 AM
Great writeup David. Thanks for putting that together.

dsms
04-23-2008, 10:08 AM
I just bought the LGM and 1 gallon of Folex to use as solution. Normally I treat stains with 303 spot remover than saturate with Megs APC+ for regular cleaning. What other products do you recommend? Also I have a Scunci steam cleaner I bought a while back, the pressure is pretty strong for a little portable unit and the water gets very hot, will this help to loosen up stains?

itb76
04-23-2008, 11:36 AM
wow this should be a sticky or hall of fame

I second that! Thanks for sharing your process David. :2thumbs:

Junebug
04-23-2008, 11:48 AM
Thanks for sharing David! As much as I want an extractor and a steamer - the old Visa card is about at her limit captain (sounds better if you say it like Scotty from Star Trek!) I can definitely get some terry cloth towels, saw them at target and it`s on the way home. Like others- I`d like to know the chemicals - and I hope that I can get them locally.



Got a minvan coming up - oh joy

David Fermani
04-23-2008, 06:31 PM
Thanks for the compliments everyone. The process is mainstream, but the techniques were figured out after years of hit or miss cleanings on many 1000`s of vehicles. I learned alot from companies that focus on training auctions how to clean very dirty & abused vehicles. I figured if they can get them some what clean, I could too.



I`d hold off on making this a sticky. I would really like to do a Click N` Brag on something really dirty soon. Maybe Tim can stop cleaning the inside of his GP for about 2 years for a prefect demo car? :scared:



Here`s the list of products I like using: (they are mostly from Auto Magic (big surprise huh))

*AM 8" wooden handled Nylon #6N & Brass #6B brush

*AM Multi-Purpose Solvent #4 or Goof Off

*AM Enzyme Pre-Spot #25

*AM Special Cleaner #713

*AM E-Z Clean HD Shampoo - #8B

*AM Clear Difference GC (Alcohol added)

*RIGID 6.5 HP Shop Vac

*Cotton Hand Towels - $1 each

citizen arcane
04-23-2008, 06:43 PM
Bookmarked!