Clay or FK1 Decontamination

[TimL]

I`m looking for the best product to remove the "Industrial Fallout" from my white 2007 F150. Nasty little rust specks!

I`d like something that I can use in the spring and then in the fall, before applying wax.

I was planing to use Collinite 476S for wax.



What kind of clay would work the best?

Does anyone use the Finish Kare FK1 decontamination system?



Thanks for the advice.

Tim

[imported_Bence]

That sounds like a decon case. Clay removes the top of the embedded particle and therefore it will bloom out again.

[SuperBee364]

Accumulator has alot of knowledge about decon systems. Hopefully he`ll chime in here. There`s a car in my family I`d like to decon and detail soon.

[AL-53]

Auto International or Called valu gards decom sysytem..in fact Ford has a service bulletin to wash all vehicles with this system before delivery....when I bought my truck I was able to watch it done...



I bought the Auto Int system and wash the cars once a year with it...and any car i do that needs a claying...you still may have to clay some spots..but the system takes about 99% of all contaminants off the paint...worth every penny



Al

[hey_i'm_new]

This is the second time I am going to use a decontamination system on my car.



I am only familiar with the FK1 system. I could not find the AutoINT (or I was not looking hard enough) decontamination system. I read “clay while the acid is dwellingâ€�… I use the acidic step as clay lubricant. works for me...

[salty]

Detail/ Reconditioning - Automotive International (http://www.autoint.com/autostore/pc/viewCat_P.asp?idCategory=4)



The Autoint smells better than the FK system.

[imported_Bence]

What an important point...

[TimL]

Which Automotive International products are needed to decotaminate my truck?

Acid Neutralizer & Alkaline Neutralizer???

Will I be able to apply the Collinite 476S right after the decontamination is complete, or are there other additional steps?

[SuperBee364]

Yeah, I would love to see a complete "how to use a paint decontamination system" post. I`m sure there`s one here somewhere, just can`t seem to get the search function to cooperate lately. I`ve never used one, either, and I would like to do it on a family member`s car before I detail it for him.



It seems like Accumulator had a very good "how to" for decon systems... but again, I can`t find it.

[TimL]

I hate to sound lazy, but I`m looking for the least complicated method for eliminating this "Industrial Fallout".

I`m not driving some classic street machine, it`s standard cab, 2wd, 2007 F150.

But I`d like to keep it blemish free, and rust free as long as possible!

One other difficulty that I`m up against is that I live in an apartment complex, so the closest thing that I have to a hose and bucket, is my bucket & mitt down at the coin car wash.

[NSXTASY]

I hate to sound lazy, but I`m looking for the least complicated method for eliminating this "Industrial Fallout".

I`m not driving some classic street machine, it`s standard cab, 2wd, 2007 F150.

But I`d like to keep it blemish free, and rust free as long as possible!

One other difficulty that I`m up against is that I live in an apartment complex, so the closest thing that I have to a hose and bucket, is my bucket & mitt down at the coin car wash.



I bought the Fk1 system a year ago and decided against using it after a few articles I read. Using acid and other extremely harsh chemicals on my paint and plastics is a bit unsettling as well as possible health concerns.



Recently, I read something that Dr.G wrote that again soldified my concerns, its over on the Opt site, I`ll link it. Paint Decontamination - Optimum Forum (http://optimumforums.org/index.php?showtopic=527)(obviously, this is taken with a grain of salt, considering its from a mfg with a competing product)



To the OP`s Q, I would go after it with some medium clay, CM Blue, Z Clay, or the like and then polish/compound and finish with a strong AIO to get any remaining fallout. This has worked perfect on the car I was going to do the DECON on and no fallout has "blooomed" nor returned in any form, its been about 8 months. GL.



I would certainly do a Decon system at the very last resort.

[Accumulator]

It seems like Accumulator had a..."how to" for decon systems...



Yeah, I`m sure I`ve posted this before but searches never work all that great for *me* so I figure some stuff is worth rehashing now and then. So:



I`ve had enough rust-blooms on white and silver vehicles to be a firm believer in decontamination systems. And note that I`ve been claying since detailing clay came out in the early `90s. Clay, polishes, and paint cleaners simply do not, IME, work as well for this as the decon systems; I`ve *finally* put an end to recurring rust-blooms on my silver vehicles. The other approaches work great if/when the ferrous contamination is only in the LSP or only *very lightly* contaminating the paint, but for real *contamination* I`d recommend a decon system.



I`ve only used the AutoInt ABC system, I have the first/alkaline step of the FK one here but I got rid of the car I was gonna use it on. SO...I can only comment on the AutoInt/ValuGard system.



I`ve used this on a fair number of vehicles (including my beloved S8 when it was brand new) and I`ve never had any problems of any kind. BUT I don`t use the acidic step on not-newish *Audi* vehicles that have aluminum trim for fear of what the acid might do to said trim should the factory finish (anodizing/etc.) be compromised, which is usually is. In a case of extreme oxidation I`d use it, I`d just take precautions regarding the trim, which wouldn`t be all *that* big a deal. IMO it`s using an acidic wheel cleaner on aluminum wheels that have a compromised coating...you can do it, but you need to do it *right* to avoid problems, and you shouldn`t do it at all without a good reason.



The first/"A"/alkaline step is really just a super-shampoo that strips off (at least most of) whatever`s on the finish (old wax/sap/tar/etc.). You mix it up in a bucket (don`t try to make suds, they`ll never stop ;) ), wash the car in a conventional manner and then rinse it off. It cleans *VERY* well, *WAY* better than Dawn/etc. and sorta like a PrepSol wipedown It`s never damaged any plastic/etc. for me but, like PrepSol, I wouldn`t use it every week either ;)



The second/"B"/acidic step is used straight, no dilution. I put it in a squeeze bottle and apply it with a terry-covered sponge. I try to keep it *off* the glass and brightwork but I don`t obsess over it either. You have to keep it wet, don`t let it dry on the finish. This proved easier in practice than I was expecting; doing the minivan in a fairly hot garage in the summer was no problem at all, but don`t try it in the sun. While the acid dwells I also clay any areas that seem to need it- note that the clay doesn`t last long when used this way. Then you rinse it off. I`ll often do a second or even third application if there appears to be any trace of remaining ferrous contamination (rust blooms/etc.). IMO the acid is quite mild, much more so than I was expecting. I do wear gloves though, for both the "A" and "B" steps. Otherwise it smarts if you get it in an open cut and I have sorta sensitive skin anyhow. Note that "milder/easier than I was expecting" was my primary impression of this step.



The third/"C"/ph-neutral step is the regular Valugard shampoo, which doesn`t impress me much. Note that, being ph-neutral, it doesn`t really neutralize/counteract the acid, it just washes off whatever might remain following the earlier rinse. It has a cool green color and its relative lack of lubricity probably doesn`t matter as everything is very clean by this point anyhow. But I just use my regular shampoos instead (I now only order the "A" and "B" products).



As I noted, I`ve only used the ABC, not the FK, but I *did* buy the FK alkaline step for a "super-shampoo" to use on used cars that I buy and other sorta-nasty detailing projects. We`ll see if it`s as horrible-smelling as I`ve heard (and I`ve heard it`s mighty awful, as in, throw-away-that-mitt awful). I`ve discussed the two systems at considerable length with the people at both FK and AutoInt and, while I don`t want to badmouth anything that I haven`t tried, I am utterly confident that I didn`t make a mistake going with the AutoInt ABC instead of the FK. I don`t think anybody will go *wrong* with the FK system, but I decided to go the other way and I`ve been perfectly happy with ABC. So why did I buy the FK alkaline step? Because a) I was curious about it and b)I could get it in a small quantity.



Some people have implied that after decon you don`t need to use a paint cleaner/polish/etc. but I dunno...I`ve always used at least a cleaner or very mild polish, even on brand-new vehicles. Yeah, things were squeaky clean but I still thought it`d be a good idea. And how many vehicles are *really* 100% marring-free ;) But if you don`t have an issue with marring you could *probably* go straight to LSP. I myself...well, I`d always use at least *something* first and there are plenty of products that`d only take 10-15 minutes, even on something big like a Suburban.

[SuperBee364]

Subscribed. Thanks for that, Accumulator!:bigups

[Accumulator]

My pleasure :D Now if I can just remember this thread next time the topic comes up I can save myself some typing :D Oughta just save such stuff to word....

[NickelPlated.45]

As I noted, I`ve only used the ABC, not the FK, but I *did* buy the FK alkaline step for a "super-shampoo" to use on used cars that I buy and other sorta-nasty detailing projects. We`ll see if it`s as horrible-smelling as I`ve heard (and I`ve heard it`s mighty awful, as in, throw-away-that-mitt awful).



Are you talking about the 1119 Soil Coating & PBS Pre-wash? Last time i ordered from finish kare they sent me a small sample bottle of it. I opened it up and it smelled like cancer.