what is more aggressive than SFX1?

[atotten]

Hello, I`m a new member but have been reading quite a bit.



I’m attempting to polish my 69 Firebird, it was repainted about 20 years ago in black. The car is garaged with an occasional stint outside with a cover. Overall the paint has held up extremely well but I have a lot of water spots and scratches (probably from cheap car covers and drying the car with crappy towels).

I’m using a PC 7424 with Sonus pads and SFX-1. Progress is ok but it’s certainly not what I hoped for. I’m on speed 6, moving slowly and applying minimal pressure. I’m concentrating on the hood for now as it seems to be in the worst shape, after multiple passes (3) I’d say it’s 75% improved.



I’m beginning to think I should try something a little more aggressive. Should I go with a different pad (4�, wool, etc.) or try another polish or both?



I can dig through my records and get the exact paint that was used and post pictures if it would help.

[detaildoc]

I believe SFX 1 is aggressive enough, even more so than Menzerna IP Polish Chart (http://thedetailinghandbook.com/Polish_Chart.aspx). Which pad are you using? You might need to apply a bit more pressure and slow down to break down the polish better. Technique is very important and you will get better with experience. Check out these videos Car Detailing videos - How to detail, polish and wax your Car (http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/video.html). Do you have any pics?

[NSXTASY]

4" pad is essential for correction with a PC.



You may try Hi Temp Heavy Cut of Extreme Cut, I find it works well with 4" pads and PC.

[atotten]

I was using Sonus SFX-1 (yellow) with the SFX-1 polish at the time of my original post, since then I applied Sonus Paintwork Cleanser with a SFX-2 (white) pad and it`s acutally starting to look pretty good. I`m definitely getting results but only after 3 or 4 passes.



Thanks for the chart, that answers the question about what`s more aggressive.



Here are some pics (the top one shows before on left and after on right and the bottom two pics are after but you can see water spots

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13833

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[SVR]

Stronger than SFX 1 (1200 grit)

Menzerna Powergloss (1000 grit)

Hi Temp Extreme cut leveler (600 to 800)

Hi Temp heavy cut (1000 grit)

[detaildoc]

I was using Sonus SFX-1 (yellow) with the SFX-1 polish at the time of my original post, since then I applied Sonus Paintwork Cleanser with a SFX-2 (white) pad and it`s acutally starting to look pretty good. I`m definitely getting results but only after 3 or 4 passes.



Thanks for the chart, that answers the question about what`s more aggressive.



Here are some pics (the top one shows before on left and after on right and the bottom two pics are after but you can see water spots



Those are pretty good results. You will never be able to get a car 100% swirl free. Also, etching on paint can be very difficult to remove and some you just won`t be able to remove.

[Alfisti]

moving slowly and applying minimal pressure

With aggressive polishes you need to lean into your PC and apply sufficient pressure to make the abrasives work properly and then break them down. Minimal pressure is only for finishing polishes. :up

[atotten]

newb question;



How do I know when the material is fully broken down (sonus sfx-1)? When it turns trasnparent?



Thanks for all the comments. After reading a LOT more and watching some of the videos I now see that I`m not applying enough pressure, using way too much polish, not allowing the polish to break down and not slowing the machine down to 4-5 for the finish. I think with a little more practice I wont need to go to a more aggressive polish. I did order a 4" set of pads though for some tougher water spots.



This is addictive...

[jswift2000]

This is addictive...

Just wait.. it gets worse.

[SVR]

Of course you can get the paint 100% swirl free. They are not like scratches that are into the metal

[fergnation]

You also have to understand that a PC is well a "PC". It will get the job done, just a bit slow and with a few passes (okay a lot of passes). 4" pads will help a great deal but I love the SFX 1 pads and polish. Just be patient and above all, keep it to small sections. IF the section you are working on is too large, it is all just wasted effort. There is only so much cutting material in the polish.



Addictive is the understatement of the year!!!

[atotten]

Update:

I spent a good 1/2 hour on half the hood and all I can say is wow. It really made a huge difference when I corrected some of my technique. I seem to see a couple of slight haze stripes, very slight but still noticeable, after SFX-1 and SFX-2 (yellow and white pads respectively). Any suggestions? Here are a few pics to show the improvement.



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This pic has before on left and after on right, there`s a little dust

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[Alfisti]

Great work! Well done. :up



On a dark colour like yours you`ll always need to conclude the process with a finishing polish. I guess, the logical choice would be SFX3 with a finishing pad. ;) That should take care of the hazing.

[atotten]

Thanks Alfisti. I`m really excited about how that one part of the hood came out, it`s the worst part of the car along with the fenders so my confidence is high that the rest of the car will be ok. I get my 4" pads this week so any little remaining defects should be no problem.



I might have to call in sick tomorrow so I can pull an all nighter on this thing...