PDA

View Full Version : Tips on WetSanding



Pages : [1] 2

Grabby
01-31-2008, 05:54 AM
All right to all the detailing vets here on Autopia. I need your help and I need it big time.



I just wet sanded a very small part on my car using a 2000 grit 3M sandpaper. I soaked it for about twenty minutes. After polishing the part, all the sanding marks were removed except this part where discoloration had occurred. My car is silver and the discoloration is dark silver.

I used a 1"x1/2" eraser as my backing pad. I only used that much of sand paper as well.



I tried polishing it out to no avail. I think I went through the clear coat. Am I right?



If so, how do I avoid this the next time and do you have any tips for me?



Thanks.



Grabby

Wren
01-31-2008, 06:25 AM
I have a practice trunk that I did the same thing on. I realized I was sanding too much in one spot, when wet sanding make less passes in the same area. Also what I learned from working on my trunk is to watch out for high spots, I made those same marks where the trunk curved away toward the seam.



btw, I`ve heard that it helps to soak the paper over night. I too only soaked mine for 30 or so min, not sure what that might have had on the effects though.



Good luck! Get yourself some practice parts! :bigups

salty
01-31-2008, 06:38 AM
I used a 1"x1/2" eraser as my backing pad. I only used that much of sand paper as well.



Not sure what you mean.



It sounds like you did go through, paint color change, not much you can do. Next time watch your progress with the wet sanding. Most cars have enough orange peel to see the transition into deeper clear. Meaning, when you sand and then see the sanding marks are all unison, no hills and valleys, time to stop.



I have oversanded on purpose a few times and then compounded and then polished out, it did not remove enough clear to cause anymore damage.

imported_Detailing Technology
01-31-2008, 06:45 AM
Sounds like you went through the clear. On silvers, that is what it looks like.

imported_Detailing Technology
01-31-2008, 06:49 AM
It also has very little to do with how long you soak the paper. You went through! It could have happened when sanding or when compounding.



So don`t think another 10 minutes of soaking the 2000 could have saved you.

salty
01-31-2008, 06:57 AM
I`ve sanded with dry paper and a spray bottle, on occasion, cuts a little more but not extreme.

Grabby
01-31-2008, 07:42 AM
Curses.



Oh well. Is there a pattern that I should follow? Like do I polish in an orbital manner or back and forth? How much pressure and do I have to keep on spray water every second or a spritz for every two or three passes would do?



I went through a part that I wet sanded without removing the clear. I polished it with a Yellow Lake Country Pad and 3M`s Super Duty Rubbing Compound. It removed the haze but I still notice deep sanding marks. Should I resort to wool?



By the way, what`s the least aggressive way to remove 2000 grit sanding marks?



Thanks,



Grabby

imported_Detailing Technology
01-31-2008, 08:02 AM
Curses.



Oh well. Is there a pattern that I should follow? Like do I polish in an orbital manner or back and forth? How much pressure and do I have to keep on spray water every second or a spritz for every two or three passes would do?



I went through a part that I wet sanded without removing the clear. I polished it with a Yellow Lake Country Pad and 3M`s Super Duty Rubbing Compound. It removed the haze but I still notice deep sanding marks. Should I resort to wool?



By the way, what`s the least aggressive way to remove 2000 grit sanding marks?



Thanks,



Grabby



I sand in a uniform pattern. Back and forth, so I have uniform sanding marks to remove. I also sand so that the surface is a solid white, not spotty, where I wanted to remove the defect.

Spray bottle, up to you, I never have used one. I just keep the panel wet with water from the bucket (very little soap) and squeege to check progress.



2000 marks will come out with foam or wool. Are you using a rotary?

Grabby
01-31-2008, 08:04 AM
Yep. Makita 9227c with 6.5" Lake Country Buffing pads. I ran it at about 1500 rpm. Maybe I applied to much pressure that`s why the sanding marks are deeper?

David Fermani
01-31-2008, 08:50 AM
How many passes back and forth did you make?

Grabby
01-31-2008, 09:12 AM
Wet Sanding or Buffing?



Wetsanding about 25-30 passes.



Buffing it off, put some product, spread, at 1500 rpm 5 passes for around 3 times.

David Fermani
01-31-2008, 10:06 AM
Wetsanding about 25-30 passes.







In 1 spot???:soscared:



If so, that`s your problem right there. Way too much sanding.

Grabby
01-31-2008, 10:21 AM
Oh.... Any recommendations on how many passes and how much pressure? At least a guideline if anything else.

The Edge
01-31-2008, 10:29 AM
try about 5 passes, then squeegie all the water off the area and inspect closely through the dry haze to see if you have removed whatever defect you were trying to get out. 20-30 passes could take all the clear off one area. Its very hard to see when the area is wet because it conceals the defect in the shine of the water. It may look like you did not do anything because of this and therefore you keep sanding. Take just a few passes and then dry the area before sanding anymore. That usually keeps me on the safe side. I also use wool to remove sand scratches mainly because it takes so little time and much less heat.

David Fermani
01-31-2008, 10:33 AM
It ultimately depends on what you are wet sanding for, but ~5 back and forth passes (in 1 spot) should be plenty in most cases (for defect removal) using light to medium pressure. On larger areas that I do via sanding block, I prefer to use a cross-hatch pattern which allows for easier removal of sanding marks (when buffing) and more uniform leveling of the surface.