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View Full Version : OMG. Is a Clay Bar bad for neglected, worn paint?



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mr.rocksteady
01-29-2008, 11:30 PM
Guys and Girls, thanks for your attention. I just bought a `85 VW Van that hasn`t been washed in 10 years. The brown paint is kind of powdered on the surface. How do I tackle this? I don`t want to take the paint off by being too overzealous. I`m thinking wash, clay bar, prewax, wax? Is a Clay bar bad for worn paint? :help:

tmonsen5
01-29-2008, 11:37 PM
a clay bar probably wont do much for you, and would be kind of useless actually. You are going to need to get rid of that oxidation by doing alot of buffing. This is something you wont be able to accomplish by hand.

mr.rocksteady
01-29-2008, 11:40 PM
Any suggestions for what steps I need to take? Wash then buff with a prewax? Thanks for your reply

BigJimZ28
01-29-2008, 11:40 PM
wash then

Klasse AIO

then clay

then machine polish

tmonsen5
01-29-2008, 11:41 PM
well, what kind of products do you have? and do you own a buffer? what kind?

mr.rocksteady
01-29-2008, 11:48 PM
`I will be buying new products. I have a hose and a van:laugh: . That\`s about it.`

jesselyons2002
01-30-2008, 12:07 AM
Just wondering why would you use KAIO before polishing or compound the oxidation.

BigJimZ28
01-30-2008, 12:22 AM
Just wondering why would you use KAIO before polishing or compound the oxidation.



KAIO will chemicall "eat" the oxidation

-so the oxidation does not kill your pads

-you can see what the paint looks like before you polish it

-for me an bad oxidation it is faster

imported_JoshVette
01-30-2008, 12:41 AM
I`d clay it. Then coumpound the heck out of it, just to cut threw all the crap, then I`d go back over it with a paint cleaner.



That`s the very least to do before waxing.

White lexus 23
01-30-2008, 04:19 AM
if you can get your hands on a buffer use that and megs fine cut paint cleaner or heavy cut cleaner with a polishing pad and go to work. then clay. you can use the same products by hand but will take much longer.

steelwind101
01-30-2008, 06:51 AM
Hello



Just to say, the OLD AIO like pre 2005 era was good at oxidation removal. The new forumla is pretty mild its a VOC compliant one. Used both on my Morgan which had a green SS on some panels and the difference was clear.



IN general any strong cleaner product will work. I just bougght the Collinite one, not sure of the number but its very strong and very cheap!



Geoff

mr.rocksteady
01-30-2008, 12:09 PM
Big UPS for the posts so far. My detailing tools currently are my hands and a hose (green). So, it looks like a polisher is in order and some cleaners. I`ll post some pics as I progress through this process.

kaval
01-30-2008, 12:12 PM
Make sure you get a proper polisher. Not those 10" ones you can buy at Wal-Mart :p



Something like a UDM, or a Porter Cable 7424, or a rotary.

Accumulator
01-30-2008, 01:01 PM
if you can get your hands on a buffer use that and megs fine cut paint cleaner or heavy cut cleaner...



That`s what *I* was thinking too...Meg`s #2 used to have some really potent chemical cleaners in it (along with the abrasives). Dunno if the new version is still that way, but it might be a good way of doing cleaning and compounding at the same time.

the other pc
01-30-2008, 01:15 PM
Hi, mr.rocksteady! Welcome to Autopia.



Here’s how I`d go at it:



Wash – always the first step.



Clay – no matter what chemicals/processes you want to do next, claying will remove bonded contaminants that would interfere. You’ll be starting with clean, exposed paint and all subsequent steps will be work better.



Evaluate the Finish, do a test spot – everybody asks whet they need to do but the real answer is that every car, every finish and every person is different. What you need to do will depend on your car, your expectations, your tools and your skills.



No blanket “do it this way, using this product†advice is guaranteed to be exactly right for you. It’s going to take some playing around to find what works and makes you happy. Any advice you get form us will only be a starting point. You will have to decide how far to take it.



Surface Preparation – This is 90+% of the game. Lot’s of options, lot’s of choices, lot’s of possibilities, everything from heavy cutting compounds (or even sandpaper) to light polishes or even doing nothing at all. It depends on the finish and your goals.



Since your finish is old, neglected and (I’m guessing) probably single stage. I would expect it to need something reasonably aggressive to start. That all comes out as you elevate the finish and do your tests.



Start the test with a less aggressive product/process and see what happens. If it’s enough, do it to the rest of the car. If it’s not, keep stepping up in aggressiveness until you find what works. Then do the rest.



If you have to go super aggressive and that step leaves some marring of its own you would use a lighter process afterward to bring the paint to where you want it.



I would highly recommend getting a good polisher like the UDM ( http://www.autopia-carcare.com/udm-1000-na.html). It will make your life much easier and give better results.



Protect the Finish – The is the last step, protecting all that work you just put into reconditioning the surface and giving it that last little bit of love. In other words, now you get to “wax it.†Whether you use a more traditional wax or synthetic sealant is up to you. Both work well.





It would really help if you could post pix.





PC.