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View Full Version : Waxing/sealing newly painted vehicle?



mhadden
01-24-2008, 08:18 PM
I tried running a search, but it keeps freezing up and not coming back, so I apologize if it has been covered elsewhere on the board.



I just want opinions on this issue. I personnally will check the build date in the door jamb and wait a month (which is usually past) before I seal/wax paint. My truck recently was hit by a shovel and I had to paint a plastic piece that goes below the headlight. I`m wondering if I should wait or if it`d be okay to do just the part that was painted last week. With all the salt/grime around here right now, I want to have "protection" on it. Like I said, opinions please:)

DanSTi
01-24-2008, 08:28 PM
Ask your painter what he thinks. It usually varies depending on the temp. it was baked at and what type of paint was used.

Accumulator
01-24-2008, 09:25 PM
*WHY* don`t the powers that be here make a sticky of this...it gets asked a few times every month.



MirrorFinishMan queried all the major paint manufacturers and got the straight info from them. They *all* said to wait at least 90-120 days even if the paint was baked.



That`s for a repaint like the piece in question, *NOT* factory paint. Factory paint is different and can be waxed/sealed immediately.

ggk
01-24-2008, 09:29 PM
That`s for a repaint like the piece in question, *NOT* factory paint. Factory paint is different and can be waxed/sealed immediately.



how is it different? the same manufacter of the paint makes the factory paint and the repaint paint.

wannafbody
01-24-2008, 09:38 PM
Factory paint is already cured. Just wax it.

BigJimZ28
01-25-2008, 07:39 AM
how is it different? the same manufacter of the paint makes the factory paint and the repaint paint.





it`s different because they bake it in an oven

at high temps before they install the plastic & rubber stuff that would melt



something you can`t do once a car is assembled

so body shops don`t have that equiptment

mhadden
01-25-2008, 08:47 AM
*WHY* don`t the powers that be here make a sticky of this...it gets asked a few times every month.Like I said, I attempted to run a search, but the page would come up blank, even after refreshing and trying again. Sorry.



Thanks for the input. I`ll go ahead and wait a little bit longer to put the part on so product can be applied before being exposed to the elements.:xyxthumbs

Accumulator
01-25-2008, 12:24 PM
Like I said, I attempted to run a search, but the page would come up blank, even after refreshing and trying again. Sorry..



No, no, *I`m* sorry if I came across in the "oh, go search!" vein, that wasn`t my intention :o




how is [factory-applied paint] different? the same manufacter of the paint makes the factory paint and the repaint paint.



They use different formulations, or at least the manufacturers I`m familiar with do. E.g., the stuff Spiess-Hecker makes for factory lines in a completely different formulation that`s designed to work with the assembly-line robotic sprayers (as opposed to a shops hand-held spray gun) and also formulated to be cured at *much* higher temps than their paint made for aftermarket spraying (which might not get baked at all depending on the shop). As BigJimZ28 alluded, the temps used for paint-curing at the factory would melt the rubber/etc. parts of a fully-assembled car.



Even the regular, aftermarket-application stuff that shops use often comes in different versions. The whole thing is more complicated than one might expect.

mhadden
01-25-2008, 12:32 PM
No, no, *I`m* sorry if I came across in the "oh, go search!" vein, that wasn`t my intention :o







They use different formulations, or at least the manufacturers I`m familiar with do. E.g., the stuff Spiess-Hecker makes for factory lines in a completely different formulation that`s designed to work with the assembly-line robotic sprayers (as opposed to a shops hand-held spray gun) and also formulated to be cured at *much* higher temps than their paint made for aftermarket spraying (which might not get baked at all depending on the shop). As BigJimZ28 alluded, the temps used for paint-curing at the factory would melt the rubber/etc. parts of a fully-assembled car.



Even the regular, aftermarket-application stuff that shops use often comes in different versions. The whole thing is more complicated than one might expect.No harm done, but I thought that was how you were coming off:dance



The paint shop did not "heat-cure" my part since it was plastic...