Best clearcoated Aluminum wheel polish?

[2000firebird]

I need a clearcoat safe polish for my polished wheels (lips), and was wondering what everyone recommends. with priority going to degree of swirl removal. i was looking at the powerball mini but if i can do it with something by hand that will be just as convenient. thanks!

[imported_grease]

I need a clearcoat safe polish for my polished wheels (lips), and was wondering what everyone recommends. with priority going to degree of swirl removal. i was looking at the powerball mini but if i can do it with something by hand that will be just as convenient. thanks!

I use 106ff on 4" CCS pads attached to an 18v cordless power drill. If theyre clearcoated, polish them like you would your paint

[Accumulator]

Yeah, just treat them like the clear on the rest of the car. The same warnings about what to use apply too...I wouldn`t want to use a powerball myself, and if you use the drill idea, remember that it`s basically just another form of rotary.



The clear on wheels is usually thicker and tougher than most automotive clear, but you still oughta be a little careful so you don`t end up having to refinish them.

[SShine]

yea, just use a paint polish if its clearcoated, and then seal :)

[DM101]

+1 If they are clear coated treat them gently as you would your clear coated paint. Just wash and use a good sealant.

[2000firebird]

i`ve tried using poorboys ssr 2.5 with not much success... should i just try again? and are you guys doing it by hand or are you squeezing the edge of the PC pad in there? heres a pic of the wheels. i don`t know if il be able to get it out by hand, but the flash does exaggerate the damage a little bit.



http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a74/00firebird/100_0296edt-size.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a74/00firebird/100_0295edt-size.jpg

[Accumulator]

2000firebird- The bad news is that the flash doesn`t really exaggerate stuff, just lets you see what`s really going on ;) The good news is that those don`t look all that awful; most of it oughta come out, with only the deeper marks (like the nick on the edge in the second pic...and what`s up with that rusty-looking blemish :confused: ) looking too bad to safely remove.



You might try the small-pad-on-drill idea, just be *VERY* careful. I don`t think the PC will get enough "throw" going for such a tight area (but if you have a 4" pad setup you might try it first and see).



If you do it by hand it`ll take a long, long time and you`ll have to use a very aggressive product that`ll still break down by hand.



This is another case where I`d try to stay reasonable. Since nobody else is gonna see how it looks under the flash, only you will know ;) If you inspect from a normal viewing distance, I bet a little improvement will go a long way.

[2000firebird]

the little brown thing is just brake dust tar that likes getting stuck only undernearth the spokes.. just perfect for me. even from a foots distance they look great, but i just dont like thinking they aren`t in `good condition`. unfortunately i only have a 6`` backing plate so thats definately not gonna fit.



im thinking i could give these tiny pads a try. i was just reading the C&B on that f430 that got the full works (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Clark_VTR/Cf1k-1.jpg) is that on a porter cable? if i wanted to switch to the 4`` pads would i need a new backingplate kit with the pads, who sells these at a good price? im thinking maybe if i can get it somewhere in the range of the powerball price it`ll be a much more worth going the pad route.

thanks for the help guys!

[Accumulator]

2000Firebird- Those little pads look different from the 4" ones I use on my PCs and rotaries...dunno if they really *are* very different though.



4" pads are great on the PC, really work well. I`d spend the $ for a small backing plate and some 4" pads (I usually just use the Cyclo brand ones myself). I can`t remember where I got mine, but IIRC CMA and TOL and Danase all have them.