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racing2448
01-10-2008, 09:39 PM
Since I joined the forum i havent really explored the website a lot, so tonight I decided to do so and see if i could pick up any new tips! I was going thru the Detailing Library Guides and read thru the Over polishing paint write up. In the article it basically said that you should avoid polishing unless you absolutely have to, as you do run the risk of eventually going thru the clearcoat. I have 8 fluorescent lights in each bay of my garage where a black escalade and a deep maroon dodge ram sit, so i see swirls and i dont like it. I just ordered a flex so luckily I havent had any bad experiences yet, and i dont want to make any stupid mistakes. Along with the flex i ordered the menzerna IP (PO91E, didnt go with the SIP yet), FP (PO85U), MP (PO87MC), so these are the polishes i am going to be using. So, for you professional detailers out there, how often (or how little) should you use abrasive polishes, and how often is "too much"? My assumtion is that initially I will use the IP but as long as I keep a good sealer on it i should only need the FP or MP?



Thanks for helping me not make mistakes :):up

SVR
01-10-2008, 11:36 PM
Depends on how thick the clear is of the particular vehicle

I`ve done my 1998 PPG 2K painted, AU XR6 Falcon three times with IP and 106FF and now have decided to polish by hand or orbital with the Glare System



Whatever thickness I have left, which is probably a fair amount, won`t be removed anymore because I fill in new defects with Micro Finish & Pro Polish as soon as I spot them and I don`t get much because it`s not a daily driver and I don`t wash with mitts anymore, just warm high pressure thick soap and RO water rinse.



The fillers get locked in with Pro Polish x 2 coats (apply and leave a film) permanently as long as there is always those coats of sealant on it.

From there on, it`s harder to swirl the paint and any new ones can be filled in



On average, it`s probably not good to Level with 800 to 1200 grit compounds more than twice or three times. Just using SIP or IP then 106FF etc would probably be ok ffive to ten times . Maybe more.



Once a year machine polishing is what I consider the better option for every car owner.

Your not going to loose any shine over a year and if you are extremely gentle when washing and QD`ing, 106FF with a white or orange pad will piss off the fine swirls no problem.



Toyota Hilux`s (07 model) have really thin paint so I wouldn`t compound those at all

Accumulator
01-11-2008, 12:37 PM
racing2448- It`s really (*REALLY* :D ) hard to generalize about this.



But generally ;) as long as you don`t polish *very* aggressively, and you don`t do it more than once/twice a year, you shouldn`t have any problems. My wife and I keep some of our vehicles a *long* time and the only problems have been with single stage paint (soft) on cars that I polished quite aggressively (live and learn) many, many times (20-some years` worth in the case of my Jag).



On cars with basecoat/clear paint, working with polishers *other than a high-speed rotary*, I`ve polished dozens of times with no problem at all. But I didn`t polish them to the point where the paint was 100% defect-free either.



Of course the best plan is to not mar it any more in the first place so you don`t *have* to polish off the clear. These days I`m very disappointed if I have to polish even once a year, and our daily drivers get driven year-round in some mighty nasty weather.



No real point in getting them perfect until you get the wash/etc. sorted out to the point where you won`t mar them again.



Also, I think you`ll find that the Flex won`t be quite as aggressive as you think.



Heh heh, FWIW, I only see the *very* worst marring under fluorescent light, I can`t remember the last time I had scratches so bad I could see `em without much more demanding illumination. Gee, guess that`s like saying "your paint is a lot worse than you think" :o and I don`t mean to be a bummer. But the good news is that it shouldn`t be very hard to keep it looking great under fluorescents. IME it`s when you want it perfect under halogens/incandescents/etc. that this stuff gets really tough.