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KnuckleBuckett
12-28-2007, 02:09 PM
I read in this fourm about people wet sanding a finish to remove the factory orange peel in their paint.



If the paint has orange peel and the paint is under the clear coat, wouldn`t the clear coat have to be removed to remedy this?



I don`t understand the concept I guess.



Anyone care to fill me in?



:thx

Brian_Brice
12-28-2007, 02:13 PM
Orange peel found on cc cars is normally on top not in the color coat. It is the texture of the top coat of paint, normally occurring during the drying phase.

KnuckleBuckett
12-28-2007, 02:44 PM
So. The paint has a smooth finish. It is the CC that has the peel?



Correct?

Brian_Brice
12-28-2007, 02:52 PM
For the most part yes, think about it like this, even though the clear is a different color than the paint is sits on, it`s still another coat of paint, so almost pretend that the clear is the same color like on ss all you have to do is smooth the top down.

beabout
12-28-2007, 02:53 PM
yes, if smooth it is in base, if you can feel the bumps its in the clear coat

imported_DetailDan
12-28-2007, 02:58 PM
yes, if smooth it is in base, if you can feel the bumps its in the clear coat



Like the peel of an orange!

KnuckleBuckett
12-28-2007, 02:58 PM
Okay. Thus sanding the CC eliminates all of the peel?



If so, I have a 2005 Lexus LS430. I have never attempted this myself.



Is this something I should attempt? Understand that I am comfortable sanding and have even wet sanded on the rare occasion (epoxy), however I do not want to ruin my finish.



Advice?

imported_DetailDan
12-28-2007, 03:04 PM
Dont do it, its not worth it.

KnuckleBuckett
12-28-2007, 03:10 PM
Thanks Dan!



Not doubting you at all. If I can ask? Why?



I am willing to locate and work with a reputable detailer if this is beyond my skill set.

salty
12-28-2007, 03:22 PM
To do a whole vehicle is a lot of work. Almost must be done with rotary. Though you could do a panel at a time.



If you have read some threads on the subject and have all the tools needed and feel it is within your grasp, then try a small area and polish it out.



Two tips are, wet sand a little (2000 grit) and wipe dry. You should see a scratched area (the high points of the clear) and an untouched area (low points), hills and valleys. The idea is to reach the even point, where you start to sand the low spot. Polish out.



Another is to stay away from areas that you can`t polish with the rotary. Edges, door handles, emblems etc.

Bert
12-28-2007, 03:34 PM
Thanks Dan!



Not doubting you at all. If I can ask? Why?



I am willing to locate and work with a reputable detailer if this is beyond my skill set.



There was a detailer who mentioned a customer asked him if he could remove the orange peel off his car. This detailer replied:



Detailer: "I don`t think you want me to do that."



Customer: "Why?"



Detailer: "My fee would be more than having your car repainted by a top level body shop."



My assumption from that was that to sand an entire car would take a VERY long time.

kickslop
12-28-2007, 03:52 PM
It`s a whoooole lot of work to do the whole car by hand. I just finished mine (a bad new paint job on a 6 year old car). I had never wet sanded, compounded, or polished anything in my life but proceeded carefully and took my time.



Here`s what I learned:



* With 2000 grit, unless you sit and sand with all your might in one 2" spot for 30 seconds straight, you`re not going to do any damage unless your CC is already thin.



* I had bad texturing/orange peel. I used 1500 grit with pressure and even then never had any bad experiences.



* salty`s comment above about avoiding areas you can`t get to with a machine is a good one. Leave at least a half inch of border near those areas unless you`re a perfectionist and are going to go back by hand over those areas.



* People will tell you to use a backing pad for your sandpaper. If you keep your hand moving, this really isn`t necessary. I did the entire car without a backing pad -- just my fingers and never staying exactly in one spot. If you hose off the area, dry it, and keep checking it, you won`t screw yourself.



* Expanding on what salty said above, basically what you will see when you start doing an area is polka dots. The dots will be the color of the car`s paint (and still have CC on them) and the surrounding "negative space" will be the CC mountains you have sanded the tops off of. When you no longer see speckles/dots, you have leveled the CC mountains down to the proper lower CC level.



* Once you`re done sanding, you`re going to need an aggressive rubbing compound + rotary or dual action polisher to take the surface to roughly 3000 grit level. Once this is all done, feel free to take a day or two off :)



* Then you do the entire car again with a polish (not TOO fine though or it will take ages) and deep clean (clay or whatever) and wax/seal as you like.



Go for it if you want, but... oof. If it`s typical mild orange peel, I`d consider living with it.

KnuckleBuckett
12-28-2007, 04:01 PM
OK.



What brand and types of sandpaper did you wetsand with?



Also is it true clay lube works better than water for wet sanding?



Sounds like the payoff versus the effort and risk involved are going to prevent me from proceeding. It doesn`t help my car is flipping huge.



Thank you for your advice and help.

jpochile
12-28-2007, 04:04 PM
I did wet sand a few years ago my Nissan 300ZX . I´m still sore from it . It is a lot of work but on the other hand , WOW what a difference in the glow of the paint .

You can always try a small area and give it a try .





Good luck . If you do please take lots of pics .



Cheers , Jean Paul

imported_DetailDan
12-28-2007, 04:09 PM
Besides the equipment you`ll need, and the risk involved during the process. You have to remember that the clear is there for a reason, to protect your paint. If you`re sanding away this protection, then your paint will be more susceptible to UV rays, and what if you scratch the car and it requires heavy buffing and or wet sanding to be removed? You wont have much clear to play with. It just isnt worth doing on a factory paint job. Now if this was a show car with SEVERAL layers of clear, then it might be a different story. But on a daily driver and factory paint, it just isnt worth it in my opinion.



Meguiars and 3M sell wet sanding paper. You can use dish soap and water.