Need New Black Polish

[imported_CurtisS]

I just got done using PB SSR 2 (x2) and 1 (x1) on my Black G35. Excellent results. I had quite a few poishes left from last time before doing my sealing process. Not one of them left better results than the SSRs.



PB Professional Polish: Left the finish with a white haze

Klasse VM: Little Haze and some micro swirls

Mazerna FPII: More micro swirls than when I started with SSRs, did retail color depth and darkness

PB Polish w/carnuba for dark finishes: this one did the least damage but nothing to warrent spending the time to do the whole car.

Maguires Show Car Glaze #7: so bad, I thew it away.



I am looking for that final step between removing all the swirls, PB SSRs work great here, but before I start to Apply the sealers (currently use UPP).



What Polish for black has the results of leaving the finish even smoother, darker, deeper and that wet look pop?

[Invigor]

You must be doing something wrong if FPII isn`t stunning for you...I`ve never had it induce defects of any sort...



but maybe give 3m perfect it 3000 ultrafina se a try

[imported_CurtisS]

`I had used FPII previously and Loved the results, could it be that the bottle is a year and half old? (always stored in climate controlled environment). I tried it both with the polishing pad and softer wax pad (griots Orange and Red pads). Everytime I tried the FPII, it was not as dark, wet or mark free as when I started with just SSR1. Everytime I reapplied the SSR1, I was happier.`

[BigJimZ28]

"Klasse VM"



what?

[imported_CurtisS]

I have used FPII before and loved the results but this time, everytime I put the FPII over an SSR1 panel the color depth, darkness and surface marks were not as good as the SSR1. I tried both the groits orange polishing pad and Rex (softer) was pad and still everytime I reapplied the SSR1, I was happier. Could it be that the Bottle is a year and a half old? (always stored in a climate controlled environment)

[imported_CurtisS]

Sorry, Klasse VM = ClearKote Vanilla Moose

[BigJimZ28]

I was a fan of the SSR`s until I used the Swirl Abolishers from Danase



here is a review I did of them:

http://autopia.org/forum/danase/96491-swirl-abolishers-review.html

[imported_CurtisS]

What do you recomend for a Final Polish after the Swirl removers?

[imported_CurtisS]

I reading some posts, is it possible that I have not used the right setting, too much product, not working the product long enough for my PC using FPII? I was using both the griots orange polishing pad and the red (softer) wax pad. PC Setting on 4, worked a 3X3 section for about 3 to 4 minutes. Put 2 thin 3 inch lines of product on pad.

[DAL1955]

I reading some posts, is it possible that I have not used the right setting, too much product, not working the product long enough for my PC using FPII? I was using both the griots orange polishing pad and the red (softer) wax pad. PC Setting on 4, worked a 3X3 section for about 3 to 4 minutes. Put 2 thin 3 inch lines of product on pad.





I think this is your answer. With the PC, 3-4 minutes just isn`t long enough tfor the FPII to fully breakdown and burnish the finish. There`s a Paul Dalton video showing him working on the final polish step at a Car show. He works in the polish for about 5-6 minutes with a rotary.(a PC would take longer). I`ve got 3 black vehicles (M5, 540, and G35) and I`ve used the SIP/FPII or 106FF system on all three. Topped this off with the Wolfgang sealant (2X), followed by Pinnacle Souvern (2X) to give the best finish I have found. Previously, I tried the S100, and was OK with the final shine, but here in FLorida, it lasted about 3 weeks. Souvern is good for at least a month or two based on how frequently I wash.



DAL

[Saintlysins]

Well, of all the systems I’ve tried (28 years worth), I fail to meet anyone who isn’t astounded at this effort and/or results: After a multi-step clay/compound/2 step polish/glaze on a buffer, I use P21S wax.

But in this method; I apply the wax to a micro fiber bonnet then ‘burnish’ it into the panel until even coverage (take your time). New clean MF bonnet at a higher speed to remove wax. And continue in this method around the car. I have the liberty of storing the car away for 4/5 days unused. This allows the wax to cure and/or harden. A quick rinse with cold water (I use the Spotless Water System filtration), and reapply the P21S was again. I continue this program 3 to 4 times, waiting 4 to 5 days between applications. It’s extreme, but all good carnauba’s need time to gas-off/harden/cure. A 2nd application too soon is only keeping the first application from curing and therefore not giving the depth of several layers.

Am I nuts? Absolutely!

Is it a pain in the a$$? It’s worse than that when you want to take your favorite sled out on a great day but know you’ll just be sealing in any contaminants that get into the finish before the next application.

BUT … I’m a perfectionist with a bad case of OCD (and I won’t take my meds ;-). I’m also the guy who is constantly asked who painted my car and with what product, as they’ve never seen such shine/reflection and refuse to believe it’s the original paint.

I use 3/4 coats on the Porsche (pure black), and 4/5 coats on the E-350 as it’s painted in that unique black with finite red flash metallic, more coats seem to really make it pop. I really don’t see anymore depth after 4 coats on the pure black. But when you apply the 3rd coat, you’ll certainly see what you’ve been looking for.

Few hints: Don’t wax in high humidity, just wait for dryer weather. I don’t use any sealers, (except on the rims) as I’ve yet to see a sealant allow the ‘depth of light spectrum’ shine as it does without it. I know that reflection is a perspective, and under fluorescents I am easily proven wrong regarding sealants, but no one sees my car in those conditions. They see it in the sun and indirect sunlight color spectrums of reflections and light refractions. This is what that product is made for, where my efforts are rewarded and the reason I don’t use sealants when I want that elusive wet-depth.

(I do use sealants regularly on the Ridgeline and to ‘winterize’ the Benz, as they do have a useful purpose against the elements).

It’s only my opinion though and I’m certain there are other options, and I look forward to seeing what others think of this and what techniques they’ve developed.

Good luck with whatever method you choose.

[J-Rad]

Well, of all the systems I’ve tried (28 years worth), I fail to meet anyone who isn’t astounded at this effort and/or results: After a multi-step clay/compound/2 step polish/glaze on a buffer, I use P21S wax.

But in this method; I apply the wax to a micro fiber bonnet then ‘burnish’ it into the panel until even coverage (take your time). New clean MF bonnet at a higher speed to remove wax. And continue in this method around the car. I have the liberty of storing the car away for 4/5 days unused. This allows the wax to cure and/or harden. A quick rinse with cold water (I use the Spotless Water System filtration), and reapply the P21S was again. I continue this program 3 to 4 times, waiting 4 to 5 days between applications. It’s extreme, but all good carnauba’s need time to gas-off/harden/cure. A 2nd application too soon is only keeping the first application from curing and therefore not giving the depth of several layers.

Am I nuts? Absolutely!

Is it a pain in the a$$? It’s worse than that when you want to take your favorite sled out on a great day but know you’ll just be sealing in any contaminants that get into the finish before the next application.

BUT … I’m a perfectionist with a bad case of OCD (and I won’t take my meds ;-). I’m also the guy who is constantly asked who painted my car and with what product, as they’ve never seen such shine/reflection and refuse to believe it’s the original paint.

I use 3/4 coats on the Porsche (pure black), and 4/5 coats on the E-350 as it’s painted in that unique black with finite red flash metallic, more coats seem to really make it pop. I really don’t see anymore depth after 4 coats on the pure black. But when you apply the 3rd coat, you’ll certainly see what you’ve been looking for.

Few hints: Don’t wax in high humidity, just wait for dryer weather. I don’t use any sealers, (except on the rims) as I’ve yet to see a sealant allow the ‘depth of light spectrum’ shine as it does without it. I know that reflection is a perspective, and under fluorescents I am easily proven wrong regarding sealants, but no one sees my car in those conditions. They see it in the sun and indirect sunlight color spectrums of reflections and light refractions. This is what that product is made for, where my efforts are rewarded and the reason I don’t use sealants when I want that elusive wet-depth.

(I do use sealants regularly on the Ridgeline and to ‘winterize’ the Benz, as they do have a useful purpose against the elements).

It’s only my opinion though and I’m certain there are other options, and I look forward to seeing what others think of this and what techniques they’ve developed.

Good luck with whatever method you choose.



That`s love right there.

[imported_CurtisS]

So does anyone have some starting recomendations for FPII on the amount of product on the pad, which pad to use (polishing pad or softer wax pad), what speed the PC should be on, how long to work the product, and size of section to work. I know a lot of this varies on paint and all but I though some good starting suggestions would save me a little time. Thanks