Clean, clayed, used Optimum and.....

[howareb]

Hi all,



This is my first thread with Autopia, but I have been detailing for about 3 years.



A customer of mine came to me with their 2001 Charcoal Blue Navigator and I noticed that the hood had medium/heavy oxidation. They told me to do the best I can with it when I pointed it out.



I hit the oxidized area with Optimum Compound and an LC Orange CCS, UDM running on 3. It removed some of the oxidation, moved to the LC Yellow ccs, UDM on 3. Removed about 60%, then moved to Optimum Hyper on LC Orange, UDM on 3, in which I got rid of about 80%. After I completed the last pass, I noticed that the shine was back but some of the oxidized areas were lighter in color than the color of the car. Needless to say the oxidation may have gotten too bad. But, I am posting here looking for a glimmer of hope. The customer will understand, but I want to try all avenues before I give up.





Should I continue working on this area or leave it be? Can the paint have been thined out so much that it is lighter in color (If so it does not make sense to me) or has the paint been damaged by the oxidation and the sun, upon which there is nothing that can be done. I have worked with lightly\medium oxidized cars before, but this one has me stumped.





I will post a pic tomorrow AM. Oh yes before I forget, the Optimum Polishes are some great products.

[BigAl3]

for paint correction, you are going to have to bump the speed up to 5-6...

[howareb]

I have recently started with the Optimum line of polishes, but I have had success with lower speeds using these polishes (Optimum directions recommends using lower speeds on the UDM).



I also use the PB SSR line. With these compounds I agree that I need speed 5 or 6.

[Scottwax]

Do you have any pictures?



It is possible the hood is a repaint.

[stiffdogg06]

for paint correction, you are going to have to bump the speed up to 5-6...





I agree, for ANY correction you need those speeds. I highly doubt I believe you got correction on speed 3 even on the UDM. But then again, i`ve never used the UDM...

[howareb]

Thanks everyone for the responses, I appreciate it.



Before I post a pic, I just want you all to know that I have been going over this in my head and I will bumb the speed up. This is the third car (excluding my own) that I used Optimum with. I did not want my inexperience with the product to be an issue with this oxidation problem, so I tried following the directions to the T. When I used the polish before on speed 3/4 I was taking out some scratches and swirls, and I worked OPC in for for 5-6 mins and I had to do three passes. Being unexperienced with this product I wanted to error on the side of caution, even though knowing that oxidation takes speed 5-6. It took two of you to "soften" my head a bit about this. So I thank you for reminding me that speed 5-6 is OK.



Scott you are probaly also correct, I will ask the customer about it when he comes by today.



Now let me get this pic up. A picture says a thousand words.

[brwill2005]

I would think a 2001 Navigator would be clear coated. In that case, clear coats do not oxidize. I may be that the clear coat on the hood is starting to fail. I would not keep polishing it, because it will just make it worse. Explain to the customer that there is nothing you can do, and that the hood has to be re-painted.

[howareb]

The pics are attached. This is after the work that was performed. I do not have any before pics, unfortunately.





Hood1 - Is a close-up showing the problem area.

Hood2 - Is showing the whole hood. The problem area is in the top right area.

Fender-Hood- Is a side view of the fender and hood.





brwill2005 - Clearcoat failure is probably correct, because I have never seen such a problem on a modern car. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think.



I may have to give the customer the bad news.

[J.J.]

Looks like the clear is gone in that area.



Does paint come off on your pad?

[howareb]

Well that is what is so weird. No paint on the pad. At least if I got paint on the pad I would at least know what to tell the customer.

[brwill2005]

Definitely looks to be clear coat failure.

[howareb]

I just got an answer from the Autogeek forum that makes perfect sense as to why the paint did not come off on the pad, and why the paint seemed lighter. Clearcoat seperation is the issue. If anyone has other ideas, then I am open, but this one does make sense.



This is the link; read Anthony`s response:



Clean, Clayed, used Optimum and.... - Autogeekonline Car Care and Auto Detailing Forum (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-forum/10457-clean-clayed-used-optimum.html#post149150)



The SAGA CONTINUES.....



I just got off the phone with the customer and he said that he will adress it next spring. I will wax it tomorrow and "the spot" will pobably not be noticed by most and he can have some good protection for winter. He learned a lesson about car care the hard way, but with it being a used car he probaly did not know what to look for. As far as he knows the car could have been neglected before he brought it. He now understands the reson for a consistent waxing or sealent.



I also learned a thing or two as well, like clearcoat can seperate from the paint and it does not necessarily have to "peel". I have not worked on many clear coat failures, but the few that I have worked with, looked like "peeling skin" from a sunburn. I told those customers the issue, waxed their car (a little wet sanding on some to lessen the appearence), and sent them on their way.



I hope that this is a reference for others. It is a great thing when we all can learn from the actions of one. Until next time, thanks all my fellow Autopians, thanks a bunch. :thx



Just for fun I am going to put the car on click and brag when I am done waxing it tomorrow. (Hey I just won`t do a hood shot. ) :LOLOL Despite the defect I am still going to make it shine.