Duragloss procedure

[thebadgermobile]

Hey all. I`m rather new to detailing and waxing. I`ve done some research and decided to go with the Duragloss line. I bought the #601 bonding agent, #105 polish and #951 Aquawax.



Perhaps some of you Duragloss gurus could give me some pointers on the following:



1. How long should I wait after buffing off the 105 to put on the AW? I`ve heard 24 hours. I`m concerned about dust, bugs and cobwebs in my dusty garage getting on the car during that time. Since the AW is a sealant, I don`t want to seal those things in. What do you guys do?



2. Is it important to avoid the black window trimmings and body moldings when using all three products? Some products are designed to be more molding-friendly. Experiences with Duragloss?



3. I bought 5-in round cotton terry pads from Autozone and one of those yellow fine-pore sponges. Are the pads good for applying the waxes, and the sponge good for washing? For buffing, will cotton terry towels be too rough?



4. The sequence for the polish: should I apply 601 to the whole car, then wait, and apply 105 to the whole car? Or do 601+105 for one section, and 601+105 for another section?



5. For windows and windshield, could I use AW or even all 3? Are they meant for glass? Same question for wheels, I think I`ll use AW on wheels, but do I need 601+105 first?



Any comments and experiences are greatly appreciated! (I have a silver Volvo S60 btw)

[kkreit01]

I`ve only been using DG products since this Spring, so I`lll let some others chime in also. Here`s what I think (based in reading, and experience):



1. For ease/simplicity, I would just wait until your next wash to apply AW. It`s a "spray&wipe --while you dry" product. I`ve read the DG 105 should cure/bond about 24 hours before topping.



2. I have never used 601. I usually start with 101 --> 105 --> AW. None of those products stain trim. I`ve applied 101 to everything: glass, textured trim, etc. I didn`t apply 105 to glass, but I know others have. AW can also go on everything.



3. I use clean MF pads or terry pads for applying wax by hand. Please get yourself some good MF towels for buffing. You will never go back to terry for buffing. The Sponge should be fine for washing (see Grout Sponge thread). I use MF mits.



4. 601 to whole car. Apply 105 to whole car. Start removing/buffing at starting point.



5. I know DG 105 & AW are great for windows. I don`t know about 601?



Comments: from what I read, many do not use the 601. The above scenario assumes your paint is already in perfect condition. If not, I`d start with wash, clay, then DG 101 (excellent AIO), DG 105, then AW.

[violentveedub]

I use the 601 and it`s a hell of a paint cleaner. I`m guessing that`s all it really is, DG claims it adds to bonding like a 2 part epoxy but who really knows. The 601 will pull all kinda junk off the paint, I usually use a MF applicator for it. I use a foam pad (by hand) for the 105, one panel at a time after the 601 and then let the whole thing simmer for a while.



Both 601 and 105 are fine on trim, I actually use the 601 to clean the oxidization off my window trim, it works great.



I wouldn`t worry too much about dust in the garage, if it`s excessive you could QD before you use AW as nothing seems to bother it. Light dust can just be cleaned off with the AW.





x2 on the Microfiber towels. K-mart has viking towels which are great and Target`s Vroom "grey" towels are pretty good as well.

[thebadgermobile]

Awesome advice. Thanks.



My sequence was gonna be: wash, clay, wash again to get clay debris off, dry, 601, 105, wait 24+ hours, AW.



Violentveedub, what did you mean 601 can pull and clean stuff off? The 601 is left on when you spread the 105 on; so I assume they will mix and mash. Then I let it simmer. Is it during wiping off the 105+601 that contaminants come off?



How much do you guys squeeze onto the pad when applying each? Quarter-sized? Dime-sized? Re-squeeze that amount for each section of the car to `replenish` the pad?

[mikebai1990]

Use as little as possible. In the beginning I squeeze 4-5 pea sized amounts of the sealant. Then, I add very little (1-2 pea sized drops) for every panel or so.

[thebadgermobile]

Forgot one thing. Should I rinse after clay barring and before 601? The clay barring is to remove microscopic grains. If rinse the car with a hose after claying, will the water introduce stuff back on? And then drying may introduce stuff too? A lot of articles I`ve read seem to lack the rinse step, and just go straight from claying to the cleaning wax (601).

[Smithule]

I do not rinse. I do not see any need. After i clay I go straight to 101.

[violentveedub]

Violentveedub, what did you mean 601 can pull and clean stuff off? The 601 is left on when you spread the 105 on; so I assume they will mix and mash. Then I let it simmer. Is it during wiping off the 105+601 that contaminants come off?







It comes off on the pad/applicator...



http://uploader.meinwirt.com/files/89/test%20009_thumb.jpg



Like so...

[eclemens]

I actually really like the looks of AW on the exterior trim. Makes it slick as well.



Also, #105 may be their "updated" product, but #101 has still impressed me the most.



VV

[gocubbies]

I actually really like the looks of AW on the exterior trim. Makes it slick as well.



Also, #105 may be their "updated" product, but #101 has still impressed me the most.



VV



have you tried 501(marine polish) it has heavier cleaners than any of the polishes and protects just as long as 105. and is slick will AW on top of it. just wait atleast 12 hours (24 perferred) before topping it. it gets slicker as it sits. and the car has not collected dust like most cars do after polishing/waxing

[eclemens]

have you tried 501(marine polish) it has heavier cleaners than any of the polishes and protects just as long as 105. and is slick will AW on top of it. just wait atleast 12 hours (24 perferred) before topping it. it gets slicker as it sits. and the car has not collected dust like most cars do after polishing/waxing



I have not...501 and their glass polish are next on my list :)



Thanks,



VV

[thebadgermobile]

Thanks all. I have completed my first Duragloss exterior detail! Here`s what I did: shampoo washed the car with a MF sponge, rinse, clayed, shampooed again, rinse, dried with bath towels, applied 601, waited 15 minutes, applied 105, waited 1 hour, buff 105, waited 12 hours, sprayed and wiped on AW.



The only concern I had was how invisible and unnoticeable the 601 and 105 went on the surface. I used a 5-inch MF pad. I squeezed maybe 5 dots for the hood, and when I spread it, it would just disappear after a couple of swipes. It didn`t feel like applying a "coat". It was more like dry-smearing whatever`s on the pad onto the surface. The first quarter of the hood got the most and the rest of the hood was me trying to smear it to them so they got covered. The pad was never saturated with dampness. Maybe my pad was too dry. But then again, I`m not supposed to load the pad with it.



So for 601, I worried but maybe that`s how the bonding agent is supposed to be. When the same thing happened for 105, I worried that I didn`t apply enough. After waiting an hour for the 105 to dry, I expected a measurable layer of opaque/hazed dried wax, of which I expected to break apart with my towel like frosting on a cake, and wipe chunks off. Instead, the 105 looked no different than from when I applied. I couldn`t see any layer. I tested it with my finger and it wasn`t greasy. The car was kind of shiny already. So I just went ahead and buffed the invisible 105 anyway. My MF towel didn`t even get damp or dirty during buffing! The only thing buffing did was get rid of the swirls from applying.



Temperature was 60F, cold, windy and dry at around 10pm. I hope I did everything right. Let me know what you guys think.

[Ern]

:scared:
dried with bath towels,





:scared: :soscared:

[purplenurple]

:scared:





:scared: :soscared:





ROFL! Dont look at the car in direct sunlight!

[Smithule]

Maybe he usese MF bath towels? Seriously though, I would buy one........