rancid82
09-19-2007, 05:28 AM
Hey guys,
I`m not new to the detailing world...been doing it for many years. BUT the only thing is, I have not really used the porter cable till 2 months ago. Some are probably asking why? Well, I`ve been using a rotary for the longest time (great results and not to mention time saving!). I did work as a detailer for a few years and have quit that job for awhile now (different profession) and do jobs on the side.
Now my problem is...with the porter cable, I feel like I`m working almost backwards. I recently did my vehicle that had some horrible hard water spots along with scratches and brush stroke marks (this all came on a brand new car from the dealer). Used the PC on speed 5 with Meg`s #83 (first with a sonus SFC white pad...no results). Second time went with the yellow pad on same speed with slight results. Ok at this point I was getting very frustrated cause with a rotary, the defect would have been pretty much gone by now. I tried a total of 5 passes on the same spot and the water marks were just not coming out.
Now I`m gonna get lectured on this but I set the speed down to 2 and the water marks went away. Granted I worked with a larger area as opposed to a smaller area with the speed setting at 5.
Just the other day, went back to do a section on the car as the waterspots were not completely off. They started showing. Went over the spots with a yellow pad with the 83 again at speed of 6 and they came out.
So my question is...what am I doing wrong? I figured with the way I hard worked it. Using a higher speed and working on a smaller area was alright but took quite a bit of time. Working with a slower speed on a larger area worked as well. I didn`t find the polish the break down faster with the larger surface area...if anything I used less product going slower than faster. Could it just be difference of technique? My past experience is telling me yes. Others are telling me no.
I think the most difficult thing is readjusting a little to a PC as opposed to the makita rotary. Any advice or feedback would be much appreciated.
I`ve included some pics of my recent detail:
Picasa Web Albums - Nicholas - Rav4 Detail (http://picasaweb.google.com/nicholas.cw.tang/Rav4Detail)
Stuff used:
Wheels were sprayed with Dupont Teflon Wheel Cleaner
Washed with Meg`s crystal wash (super concentrated)
Clayed
Washed again with Meg`s crystal wash
Dried with The Absorber
Meg`s #83 with SFX yellow cutting pad
Klasse AIO with SFX white pad
4*UPP
P21S
Wheels were coated with Michelin brake dust repellent
Rubber/Plastic trim cleaned and dressed with Meg`s #40
There are some scratches still visibile at certain angles but all in all, the paint is free of swirls and water stains. You could literally get dressed in front of the car!
I`m not new to the detailing world...been doing it for many years. BUT the only thing is, I have not really used the porter cable till 2 months ago. Some are probably asking why? Well, I`ve been using a rotary for the longest time (great results and not to mention time saving!). I did work as a detailer for a few years and have quit that job for awhile now (different profession) and do jobs on the side.
Now my problem is...with the porter cable, I feel like I`m working almost backwards. I recently did my vehicle that had some horrible hard water spots along with scratches and brush stroke marks (this all came on a brand new car from the dealer). Used the PC on speed 5 with Meg`s #83 (first with a sonus SFC white pad...no results). Second time went with the yellow pad on same speed with slight results. Ok at this point I was getting very frustrated cause with a rotary, the defect would have been pretty much gone by now. I tried a total of 5 passes on the same spot and the water marks were just not coming out.
Now I`m gonna get lectured on this but I set the speed down to 2 and the water marks went away. Granted I worked with a larger area as opposed to a smaller area with the speed setting at 5.
Just the other day, went back to do a section on the car as the waterspots were not completely off. They started showing. Went over the spots with a yellow pad with the 83 again at speed of 6 and they came out.
So my question is...what am I doing wrong? I figured with the way I hard worked it. Using a higher speed and working on a smaller area was alright but took quite a bit of time. Working with a slower speed on a larger area worked as well. I didn`t find the polish the break down faster with the larger surface area...if anything I used less product going slower than faster. Could it just be difference of technique? My past experience is telling me yes. Others are telling me no.
I think the most difficult thing is readjusting a little to a PC as opposed to the makita rotary. Any advice or feedback would be much appreciated.
I`ve included some pics of my recent detail:
Picasa Web Albums - Nicholas - Rav4 Detail (http://picasaweb.google.com/nicholas.cw.tang/Rav4Detail)
Stuff used:
Wheels were sprayed with Dupont Teflon Wheel Cleaner
Washed with Meg`s crystal wash (super concentrated)
Clayed
Washed again with Meg`s crystal wash
Dried with The Absorber
Meg`s #83 with SFX yellow cutting pad
Klasse AIO with SFX white pad
4*UPP
P21S
Wheels were coated with Michelin brake dust repellent
Rubber/Plastic trim cleaned and dressed with Meg`s #40
There are some scratches still visibile at certain angles but all in all, the paint is free of swirls and water stains. You could literally get dressed in front of the car!