newbie clay and wax questions

[flamanar]

Hi. New here, but have done some reading and have a few questions.



I have an `05 Toyota Camry (silver) that I have professionally detailed twice a year. I live in an apartment complex and obviously have difficulty finding a place to work on my car myself. I use an automatic car wash every couple of weeks. Lately, I`ve had lots of little brown spots on the horizontal surfaces of my car that won`t come off by washing. I think it`s leaves falling on my car and the sap from the stem touching my car, then the hot sun baking it onto the surface (I`ve since moved my car and the spots are appearing much less frequently now). There were so many a few weeks ago that I took it to have it detailed. I found out that they clayed it to get the marks off. To save having to spend $$$ on more frequent details to remove this stuff in the future, I`ve decided to use their method. I picked up some blue Clay Magic and lube at a local store. However, reading here, there seems to be some disagreement about whether claying a car (I`d only be claying the spots on the horizontal surfaces of the car, BTW) removes wax. If it does remove the wax, I`ll need a wax that I can purchase at a B&M store that is EXTREMELY easy to use. I don`t have a machine buffer. If I can find something that doesn`t require tons of elbow grease, that would be great. Years ago, I used to use paste waxes that killed my shoulder, so that`s all I`m familiar with. Is there any consensus as to whether spot-claying my car will remove the wax from those areas? If so, what`s the EASIEST/QUALITY wax that I could purchase locally to use to restore protection on the horizontal surfaces? Thanks.



flamanar

[Eliot Ness]

:welcome to Autopia flamanar!



The question about clay removing your LSP (Last Step Product = wax or sealer) is debated quite a bit. If you can remove the spots with "gentle" claying (just gently gliding the clay over the contamination then you should remove minimal amounts of your LSP.



One way to tell is when you`re done, and have washed the areas in question, is to see if they feel as slick as the areas you did not clay. If not then you can apply more wax or sealer. The best wax or sealer to use might be what the detailer uses..... just ask them. If it has to be ordered we`ll be glad to give you places that carry it..... once we know what it is. Most products are pretty easy to use.



For the easiest application (wipe on and walk away- no buffing) check out these three products:



Opti-Seal by Optimum (http://store.danase.com/opbyop.html)

Ultima Paint Guard Plus (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ult-1012-100.html)

Z-CS Clear Seal: Zaino Store (http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Z-CS&Category_Code=Zaino&Product_Count=1)



I haven`t used the Ultima yet but it gets good reviews. I have used the other two and it doesn`t get much easier than that.



Good luck...

[the other pc]

Hi flamanar, Welcome to Autopia.



Like Eliot Ness points out, the question of how much if any wax is left behind after claying does not have a simple, definitive answer. If you want to err on the side of caution then apply wax after claying.



While it can make the job go faster, you don’t need a buffer to apply wax. A good quality wax is easy to apply and remove when you use proper technique. A lot of people do have difficulty with paste waxes, but it’s mostly because they apply them waaaaaay to thick and then let them harden like concrete.



Most people try to scoop out paste wax and glop it on the car. The trick is to apply it really, really, really thin. Take your applicator and spin it around gently in the wax, just enough to smear it lightly. Then rub it on the car so thin that you can barely see that it’s there.



It doesn’t take much force. You’re smearing something on, not grinding off the surface. It should be a faint haze, not an obvious layer. Overlap your strokes. You want uniform but very thin coverage. Did I mention to put it on thin?



You can use liquid wax too and the same rules apply. Thin, thin, thin!



The let it dry. If you did it right it will wipe off easily.



For an easy to find over-the-counter wax I’d go with Meguiar’s NXT, either paste or liquid.





PC.

[flamanar]

Thanks for the suggestions. Are there any other quality/easy-to-use "wipe on and walk away- no buffing" waxes available at retail that have a great reputation? I have ABC Autoparts, Autozone, and Pep Boys locally.



Thanks!



flamanar

[Dan]

flamanar,



Welcome. Like the others have mentioned, claying will remove at least some of the LSP. I would definately re-wax. Just about any reputable brand wax is going to be easy to remove if applied nice and thin. Meguiars and Mothers make some very nice waxes that are very easy to work with and available locally.



Another approach might be using Duragloss Aquawax of Meguiars Ultimate Detailer after every wash. These products will make the surface very slick and less likely for stuff to stick to your car, possibly extending the interval at which you need to clay.

[flamanar]

Well, I`m leaning towards Zaino, but I`d still like recommendations on specific "wipe on and walk away- no buffing" waxes available at retail that have a great reputation. I`ve been out of the loop so long as far as waxing my own car that it`s daunting. It took me forever just to find the clay. You should`ve seen the expression on people`s faces at the auto parts stores when I asked them if they carried detailing clay! They looked at me like I had 2 heads!



Looking at all the different brands on the shelf, I go cross-eyed after about 2 minutes ;) Anyone have great experiences with a retail brand? If so, what was it called? Thanks! This forum is amazing!



flamanar