PDA

View Full Version : Problems with PC end results



bojangleS_8686
07-29-2007, 09:43 PM
Sorry I have no pics to go along with this, I didn`t think I would need to take any so I didn`t need to bring my camera. I polished a 2002 Ford Focus with moderate swirls with SSR2 via orange CCS pad and PC on speed 5. When I was done, It looked like there were more swirls than before, but the reflections were much better. This has happened to me a few times, so I can only assume it is something I am doing wrong. I haven`t finished the job yet (its my girlfriends car so she doesn`t care if has to stay in the garage for a day) because I want to get rid of these swirls completely. Is the SSR line not strong enough to get rid of swirls completely? Should I step it up to SSR3 and an orange or yellow pad? Or am I just using the wrong combination of products? I`m sure everyone can feel my frustration on this, any help is appreciated!

vMaster0fPuppet
07-29-2007, 09:49 PM
Its marring left by the rough pad and product. After that your going to have to step down to a finer pad and polish.



On my Camaro I used SSR2.5 with a yellow pad. Followed that with TC-8 and an orange pad and finished with OP and a white pad (all LC pads). Worked well.



I`d just go with a light polish and a white pad if I were you.



Also you may not be working the polish long enough.

Setec Astronomy
07-29-2007, 09:52 PM
It may be that you notice more of the swirls now because the surface is more reflective. SSR2 isn`t THAT aggressive...while SSR3 is like rocks in a bottle. SSR2.5 is about like #83 and many other medium polishes, but 2.5 has some fillers in it that the other SSR`s don`t (yes, I know it says on the bottle it doesn`t have any, but my personal experience and that of other Autopians says it does).



SSR3 WILL leave marring that you will have to take out with a finer polish.

vMaster0fPuppet
07-29-2007, 09:55 PM
SSR2.5 with a yellow pad left marring on the black paint on my car. Not significant but enough to be improved with OP and a white pad.

Setec Astronomy
07-29-2007, 10:02 PM
Well, I wouldn`t finish with SSR2.5 on a yellow pad on any car, let alone a black one. Depending on the color and the paint, you can get an LSP-ready finish with SSR2.5 if you use a less aggressive pad.

vMaster0fPuppet
07-29-2007, 10:06 PM
The 3 step process was probably overkill, but this was my 4th attempt. I finally found a system that worked after 3 failed attempts, and I wanted to make sure I did it right.

bojangleS_8686
07-29-2007, 10:14 PM
Thanks for the input. I have SSR1 and a CCS white pad, I will try that tomorrow and see how it works. I also have Pro Polish and EX-P that I bought from a fellow autopian that I haven`t tried out yet. Maybe this is a good time to try these as well?

Setec Astronomy
07-29-2007, 10:17 PM
I think you really have to determine if the marring you are seeing is left over from before polishing, or if you are introducing it with your products/technique. Try a spot with the SSR1/white, and if that improves/fixes it I guess it was you using a too-aggressive pad and/or not working it enough. If it doesn`t fix it, you probably need to go more aggressive, work on your arm speed, etc.

bojangleS_8686
07-29-2007, 10:30 PM
How long should SSR2 take to break down on a 2x2 area? I have been working it in from 2 to 3 minutes per section while making around 4 complete horizontal and vertical passes.

Setec Astronomy
07-29-2007, 10:44 PM
It depends how much you are using, you want to work it until it`s almost gone, but not `til it`s dry. 2-3 minutes on a 2x2 panel sounds about right. My suspicion is you just have some deeper marks that are going to take more passes or more abrasive to remove.