SIP vs IP

[BlueZero]

Is there much of a difference between the two? According to the autogeek chart they have the same cut and gloss. I will be using them with a PC. On regular paint, not the scratch resistant stuff. I still planing on using Megs #80 for my fine polishing needs, but would like something with a bit more bite. I just can`t get the results I want with #83. I have searched for a few hours and didn`t see any direct comparison, I could have missed it.



Thanks in advance for any help!

[porta]

SIP cuts faster and more then regular IP. But it also finishes out much better. Sometimes their is no need for a final polish. I have been finishing dark coloured paints with rotary and Menzerna PO85RD3.02. SIP is PO85RD3.01.



Bin the MG80 and use SIP on a finishing pad/polishing instead.

[BlueZero]

Thanks porta!



I`ll get the SIP and even try finishing with it.

[porta]

No problem :)

[BlueZero]

Bummer, Autogeek is out of SIP. They are expecting on getting some in 6 weeks.



Guess I`ll wait. :(

[porta]

Blackfire SRC compound is almost the same(contains more lubrication) but this is a lot more expensive I think?

[SVR]

SIP is a weaker cut. PO91E is the original clear intensive and will remove 1500 grit to 2000 grit marks and can be used with anything from black edge to white LC.

SIP doesn`t have as much grunt. I dunno it just doesn`t cut it (literally) on original clears

[porta]

IMO PO85RD3.0X have a better cut then PO91L.

[ptaylor_9849]

I have SIP 3.02 from Germany and don`t think I`ll ever use anything but that from now on. It worked magic on my black vette and finished perfectly with NO NEED for additonal polishing. However, there is a learning curve to it. Check recent threads on how to use it properly with an orange pad. You do not use lines of polish like other products. Use only two pea sized dabs and polish until clear. I have only applied this product with a rotory so don`t really know how well it would work by PC. While I`m on the subject, I feel that I must get this off my chest. Many, many people on this site keep asking about the proper product to help them achieve awesome results. Yet they keep using a PC to apply polish. Polish requires heat to break down properly and this is best acheived via rotory. Polishing never came together for me UNTIL I picked up a rotory. Then everything changed and my eyes were opened. I know that there are many here who work wonders with a PC but for the majority of the rest of us the answer lies just as much in the tool as the polish. For me it`s just this simple. My rotory does all my correction and my PC applies all my glazes and waxes. Stop being affraid of the rotory. It`s what`s holding you back!



Patrick

[porta]

I second ptaylor...

[BlueZero]

Stop being affraid of the rotory. It`s what`s holding you back!Patrick



So true. I keep trying to stretch the limits of my PC when I really should just get a rotary. Thanks for your help porta, SVR and ptaylor_9849!

[SVR]

I have found on original clear that 85 RD 3.01 has no balls on medium to heavy damage but 91L did the job. weird. maybe it was the ford paint

[mbkintner]

I just received an order of PO106FF and SIP from AG and an order of PO85RD from Detailer`s Domain. Of the three, the SIP is the most aggressive product but compared to the others it feels like hand lotion. Is this normal for SIP?



Mike

[ptaylor_9849]

Yes Mike, it does look like hand lotion and does not feel gritty when touched. However, don`t let the consistency fool you. It is the best polish I have ever used and it rocks on hard clears. Only use two little pea sized dabs on the entire pad and polish that in until clear. Then wipe with dry MF towel. Don`t let the pad become saturated with polish. Use very little and work in small sections at a time.



Patrick

[PRB]

Does SIP take very long to break down...i.e. slow like Optimum Polish or does it go more quickly?