4 questions for the pros

[Mr. Vic]

I just into detailing and am trying to figure a couple things out.



1. What is the purpose of "cleaner" wax? Not really sure when to use. I have #83.



2. In what cases is it time to start wetsanding? I`m assuming for deep scratches. But what is the differance between wetsanding and using a heavy cut pad and an abrasive polish?



3. Clay baring: Example - I practiced on a friends car. I noticed lots oh little specs of dirt embedded within the paint (`02 civic - never washed). So I washed it and then clayed it. But this stuff was still in there even with some pressure. here did I go wrong here? i used `cleaner` wax thinking that was the problem but no.



4. Machine buffing using a wool pad. Not really sure what that does.



These problems are holding me back. :furious: Please advise.



V/R

Mr. Vic

[awahl63]

1. 83 is not a cleaner wax but a cutting polish. A cleaner wax is used for a quick once over the paint to remove/hide and give some protection.



2. Correct, wetsanding saves time cutting through the paint.



3. Heavy contamination requires many passes and tougher grade clay.



4. Cuts away at the paint quickly. Used when needing to really compound the paint.



Hope this helps

[imported_Reflectionz]

1. Clean wax usually have some polishing effects to it. it is use to save time on quick details. polish/wax in one step but usually the polishing it does isnt all that great.



2. yes, when a stratch is deep in and it`ll take a while to level it buffing. a lot of times, you are not getting out the scratches, you are just smoothing them out to make it unoticeable and when a scratch is too deep, it is hard for any abrasives to get into it and do the smoothening. i prefer to use wetsand then use a heavy cut pad because that`ll leave you with a very nasty swirled up finish that you then have to get out after.



3. maybe get better clay? it should come out. if the paint doesnt feel that rough, i`ll just wash and polish.



4. Old school.

[Mr. Vic]

Thanks guys for the help, I think I get it now.

[Saumil]

thanks, that even clairified things up for me a little, esp 2 & 4...great question, even better answers!

[Anthony O.]

I just into detailing and am trying to figure a couple things out.



1. What is the purpose of "cleaner" wax? Not really sure when to use. I have #83.



2. In what cases is it time to start wetsanding? I`m assuming for deep scratches. But what is the differance between wetsanding and using a heavy cut pad and an abrasive polish?



3. Clay baring: Example - I practiced on a friends car. I noticed lots oh little specs of dirt embedded within the paint (`02 civic - never washed). So I washed it and then clayed it. But this stuff was still in there even with some pressure. here did I go wrong here? i used `cleaner` wax thinking that was the problem but no.



4. Machine buffing using a wool pad. Not really sure what that does.



These problems are holding me back. :furious: Please advise.



V/R

Mr. Vic





No offense meant to you but have you considered taking some courses in detailing?



I say this because you shouldn`t even have "wet sanding" on your mind at this point. How much rotary work do you have under your belt? Has anyone skilled in rotary work taught you some basic pointers?



As for your clay....the clay will NOT remove all things embedded in your paint, sure it removes things like tar, overspray and some sap but for contaminates such as rail dust it doesn`t remove it but rather shaves it off....removes the protruding parts. If stuff is embedded in your paint like dirt nibs or debris it will not remove those.



Lastly, wool pads are NOT "old school" in that they are no longer a needed and important part of paint correction. Many times a lambswool pad can save paint from being wet sanded while producing very few swirls. A wool pad is used to level paint and to clear up defects in re-paints. Scratches in paint are not removed but rather the paint surrounding that scratch is "leveled" down to the depth of the scratch. Lot`s of detailers out there that will give you nothing but incorrect information.



Anthony

[imported_Ivan Rajic]

1. What is the purpose of "cleaner" wax? Not really sure when to use. I have #83.

2. In what cases is it time to start wetsanding? I`m assuming for deep scratches. But what is the differance between wetsanding and using a heavy cut pad and an abrasive polish?

3. Clay baring: Example - I practiced on a friends car. I noticed lots oh little specs of dirt embedded within the paint (`02 civic - never washed). So I washed it and then clayed it. But this stuff was still in there even with some pressure. here did I go wrong here? i used `cleaner` wax thinking that was the problem but no.

4. Machine buffing using a wool pad. Not really sure what that does.



Vic I`m with Anthony on this one... I think it`s safe to assume you have very little experience, especially with a rotary, if you`re asking these questions...

1. already answered above... 1-step product that cleans up old wax a bit and hides some swirling... not a good thing to learn with in detailing... I never use this but have heard good detailers use it sometimes when applying a 2nd coat of wax to a detailed car... to clean up some of the old stuff and add more protection



2. You should really stay away from wetsanding for now... but your assumptions are correct... wet-sanding is usually best for the deeper scratches where touch up paint is necessary... then you would wet sand it, and after buff to a nice gloss



3. See Anthony`s response.



4. Alse mentioned above... cuts faster and works "better" than foam pads in some situations

[imported_Reflectionz]

No offense meant to you but have you considered taking some courses in detailing?



I say this because you shouldn`t even have "wet sanding" on your mind at this point. How much rotary work do you have under your belt? Has anyone skilled in rotary work taught you some basic pointers?



As for your clay....the clay will NOT remove all things embedded in your paint, sure it removes things like tar, overspray and some sap but for contaminates such as rail dust it doesn`t remove it but rather shaves it off....removes the protruding parts. If stuff is embedded in your paint like dirt nibs or debris it will not remove those.



Lastly, wool pads are NOT "old school" in that they are no longer a needed and important part of paint correction. Many times a lambswool pad can save paint from being wet sanded while producing very few swirls. A wool pad is used to level paint and to clear up defects in re-paints. Scratches in paint are not removed but rather the paint surrounding that scratch is "leveled" down to the depth of the scratch. Lot`s of detailers out there that will give you nothing but incorrect information.



Anthony

this guy... :furious:

[Strokin04]

this guy... :furious:



What was wrong with what he said?

[kompressornsc]

this guy... :furious:



You may need a little history on this. Mr. Vic is a `pro` in that he`s charging people for details...while asking questions that an even an enthusiast should know / understand. Not to put words in Anthony`s mouth (becasue that would be unsanitary), but my guess is that he feels that people with this little knowledge shouldn`t be passing themselves off as pros and / or learning on other people`s cars.

[Accumulator]

As for your clay....the clay will NOT remove all things embedded in your paint, sure it removes things like tar, overspray and some sap but for contaminates such as rail dust it doesn`t remove it but rather shaves it off....removes the protruding parts. If stuff is embedded in your paint like dirt nibs or debris it will not remove those...



Yeah, that`s one of the reasons they sell decontamination systems. Clay`s good, but there are times when a chemical approach is the better way to go.

[imported_themightytimmah]

I`m gonna go ahead and disagree with Reflectionz on the wool pad issue - although twisted wool pads are old-school, many of the new wool blends will level out swirls in clearcoated paint faster, cooler and more effectively than a foam pad.



The use of a wool light cut pad allows for a polish, rather than a compound to remove swirl marks and imperfections - it`s faster, easier, and I wouldn`t knock it til I tried it. I have switched completely from HTEC on a foam cutting pad to Presta UCCL or OCP on a wool cut pad - and I will probably never go back.