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View Full Version : Metabo+Edge2000+PrestaUCCL=Learning Curve



Big Kahuna
05-02-2007, 12:10 AM
I`m using these three products for the first time Metabo PE12-175, Edge 2000 Blue/Green Combo, and Presta UCCL. :buffing:



I really like the Metabo. I consider myself a weekend warrior, so it`s light weight and compact size made my work much much easier. This is only my 4th time using a rotary and using the Makita was a much more exhausting experience. My only concern is that it does not have a handle (near the trigger) like the Makita. It seemed like I was holding a club. :bat



While using the green pad I put two quarter size amount of UCCL. After about 15-20 seconds at about 1300rpm, the pad became unstable and began to hop. This happened alot. I used more product and all I got was sling everywhere! I just thought that the pad was getting dry, so I sprayed some QD to get a longer working time, but not much more. I then put UCCL on the paint and it seemed to work better. Does anyone know why the pad is hopping? How to correct it? Add RMG? :idea

orngez
05-02-2007, 01:56 AM
pad hop is sometimes a result of not holding the pad parallel to the surface you are working on...or applying to much pressure...very rarely is it from applying to little pressure but it can still happen...if you want a longer working time you can add rmg or do what most of us do and add a dab of optimum polish

gmblack3
05-02-2007, 07:44 AM
Did you spread the product on the surface before you turned the machine on?

wannafbody
05-02-2007, 08:08 AM
next time try thin lines of product on the pad instead of larger drops of product

klnyc
05-02-2007, 08:26 AM
2 qtr size are too big. Try like a 2-3 pea size or 4" to 6" bead line.

3Dog
05-02-2007, 09:19 AM
With a rotary I put a line of polish on paint and pull it into the pad with machine running.

Big Kahuna
05-03-2007, 02:16 AM
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I did spread the product on the area I was working on. I also tried putting UCCL on the paint first in a line and it did work better. As for the amount of pressure applied, I`m a noob with the rotary, so I did not apply much more pressure than the weight of the rotary. I might need to get RMG or OP for my next attempt.



Also, I did follow with FPII and it worked fine.

Junebug
05-03-2007, 07:44 AM
I think it was Bill Engal from the Blue Collar Comedy Tour that admitted to gettin drunk and riding an industrial floor buffer. The trick to all buffers, easy pressure - don`t man-handle the machine, if you want to go up front - lift up on the back side - GENTLY! It`s a learning curve but stick with it - like riding a bike, you`ll be fine.

AL-53
05-03-2007, 07:59 AM
Spread your polish out at around 800 rpm`s first...work it around....then up your rpms to around 1400-1500 rpms and begin your polishing....hold you pad flat..do not tilt to a edge...if you find the polish flashing to fast..add a drop of OP to the pad for some lube..it helps...try not to use a lot of down pressure....just the weight of the machine and a touch of down pressure is good...just let it flow over the panel...make several passes and then check your work



Al

captkirk2
05-04-2007, 09:20 AM
You can also try applying some polish to a dampened applicator then spread, dab or wipe over the area to be buffed. This will prime the pad evenly. This will also outline the area to be buffed so you dont try to take on too big of an area at once. You could also use this method to apply the produce to the pad, this way you dont have any dry spots.

imported_rydawg
05-04-2007, 09:34 AM
The only time I have trouble with pad hopping with these polishes is if there is something left on the car like too many waxes or contamination. I use to do quite a bit of used cars and they were always the ones that had issues cuase of all the coatings they had on them. Sometimes a good wax stripper will help prep the surface and make the pad glide better.