Which chemical polish for lightly oxidized SS paint?

[new2mud]

OK, from my many many pages of pouring through archives, I *have* gathered that a chemical polish is best for removing light oxidation from SS paint.



However, I`m having trouble determining which ones are chemical and which are abrasive.



What products have *you* had good success in removing light oxidation from SS paint?

Please specify whether it is suitable for PC, or also by hand. (I guess knowing which ones are rotary-only would be informative as well). Thanks!

[imported_DieselMDX]

megs m80 works great on SS, it can be used with a PC

[BigJimZ28]

KAIO is great for hand/PC use

[imported_memnuts]

Probably can`t go wrong with ZAIO, JW`s Prime Strong or the old version of KAIO for SS paint.

No problem on my 67 black Z28 (ZAIO and pre-VOC KAIO)

[joshtpa]

No question, KAIO

[mikebai1990]

Meguiars ColorX would be another viable choice.

[new2mud]

OK, so I did know that AIO was chemical--are both Meg 80 and ColorX also chemical, and not abrasive?

[mikebai1990]

Meguiars 80 is somewhat abrasive, ColorX is less abrasive (can only remove very light swirls, if any), and AIO is a little little bit abrasive. For oxidation, I would either go with ColorX, Klasse AIO, or Jeff Werkstatt`s Prime.

[imported_themightytimmah]

Chemical polishes do pretty well - but in my experience I usually just skip to a medium compound. Usually where there`s oxidation, there is going to be scratches and swirls beneath. KAIO or Prime Strong will remove the dead layer, but leave the paint beneath. Something like OC or OP on a wool pad will knock out the oxidation and any swirls beneath - leaving the paint ready for a finishing polish and LSP.

[imported_memnuts]

Chemical polishes do pretty well - but in my experience I usually just skip to a medium compound. Usually where there`s oxidation, there is going to be scratches and swirls beneath. KAIO or Prime Strong will remove the dead layer, but leave the paint beneath. Something like OC or OP on a wool pad will knock out the oxidation and any swirls beneath - leaving the paint ready for a finishing polish and LSP.





True, but it depends on why the paint is oxidized. My classics get oxidation from just being stored and the underneath paint is flawless. In this case a cleanser type polish is the best choice. One with a protectant is even a better choice for me.





Wool pad for mild marring(if present) and by PC? Slight over-kill? :nixweiss

Wool should only be used with a rotary IMHO.

[imported_DennisH]

Depends on what kind of SS you are talking about. It this is a newer SS than AIO or more aggressive abrasive probably will be fine. It this is a 40 year old lacquer paint job I wouldn’t use wool pad and polish with abrasives till I had a full evaluation of the paint by someone that knew what they were doing. Hopefully it will include a paint thickness evaluation also. I don’t know if trade secret oils really do help lacquer paint from not checking/cracking but I have always used Megs in hopes it does so 80 or 81 would be where I would start with lacquer paints. Hope that helps.

[new2mud]

No--definitely not *old* paint-- I`m talking 1990 Mazda Miata Classic Red SS. OK, so it`s a little old, but not the 40-year old lacquer variety!



Thanks for the tips so far!

[xinkid]

I`ve had success with MPPC, #80 and ColorX on my SS red paint. I don`t use MPPC and ColorX anymore because they dust more than #80. #9 is also very good at bringing back the red in my experience. Those Meguiar`s oils do have something to them. Make sure you work #9 until it almost disappears though.. otherwise, it`s very hard to take off.