GlossyTundra
04-05-2007, 09:40 PM
This is from Tundra Solutions is where you can research, discuss, price and repair your Toyota, Scion or Lexus (http://www.tundrasolutions.com) A thread was started by a user showing wax beads on his new 2007 tundra (Z2 and Prima Epic I think).
Quote:
Wax is nothing more than a petrloeum based product that temporalily fills minor imperfections, swirl marks and enhances gloss and beads water until it is either washed off or the heat from the sun bakes the petroleum off the car. Yes, some are much better than others and even those don`t do squat for what you are claiming.
While waxing helps the appearnce the quality and the correct application of the clearcoat (needs 2 `dry` mils for max protection) is going to determine what permaeates it and stains it (like gasoline does on cheap clears), by nature the polyurethane clear is waterporoof and even if you waxed your ride every day of your life if it sees any type of daylight (UV doesn`t care about clouds) and it lacks quality UV inhibotors in its resin system you are wasting your time beacuse its going to yellow and eventually peel because wax won`t stop a thing.
Sure a freshly waxed car looks slick and beads water but that`s about all its good for so whats the point of beading water other than you might have chance of air drying a freshly rained on vehicle with minimal waterspots? Of course the fastest way to produce a gloss on a finish is to add petroleum plus oils give you that false sensing of eliminating minor scratches and swirls marks when all that really happened was you filled them with oil/wax unless you actually took the time to correctly buff/polish these blemishes a way.
Keep this in mind too: if your Toy doesn`t have 2 mils of actual clear on it from the factory even under the slim to none chance Toyota uses the best clear coat out there that lack of 2 mils will cost you durability, UV protection and gloss over time and perfect example was I painted my mom`s 60K mile dent free 97 Camry which was 4M9 from the factory (that champagne color where the body never matched the door handles or bumpers from the factory) because the paint was detoriated to the point it was about to delaminate.
Sure the car had idiot proof Toy quality but it had an early 90`s GM paint job and I haven`t seen much improvement over the years.
I`ll agree with the general consensus Toyota produces some of the highest quality mass produced vehicles at the moment but don`t think for a second your factory paint job is more than medicocre. If it were they would warranty it for at least as long as the bumper to bumper warranty but they know better.
Also, the next time you look at a Toyota with a $699 paint protection package ask the salesperson in a concerned voice if that magical paint sealant is available to body shops in case your new car is wrecked and must be painted (because when you consider a gallon `kit` that is just about enough to spray 2 Camry`s allover of DuPont, Spies or PPG`s best clear costs about $300 this magical paint sealant that costs $699 needs to replaced on these inferior panels that were freshly painted because wouldn`t it be just devestating if these new panels faded faster than these old panels with the magic sealant on them ) the typical line is something like any auto paint store carries it and every body shop has access to it.
I can tell you this for a fact: Over the last 15 years I have called on and sold to no less than 500 unique auto paint stores in the SE and have millions and millions of dollars automotive coating marketing experience in addition to my own painting experience and not only does this product not exist in an auto paint store or a body shop but you have purchased $699 in snake oil that hopefully yielded you a single hand glaze or hand wax job that will wash off in 3 to 4 weeks.
The only thing worse than paying for this package is paying the added dealer profit (usually about $499) on your sales sheet in the finance room. A tip here is you can bring up it and say you aren`t going to pay it like a wimp then FI guy will make serious page to the salesperson who will in return back up the FI guy and say every spineless sucker pays this added dealer profit. Or you can say it with some balls and walk your arse out over it like a real man with a sack would. Everytime I`ve walked out over this pure BS I`ve been invited back and intially they try to counter it but tell them to get bent and they`ll waive it. Only suckers pay made up fees on a piece of paper.
He shure knows his stuff:grinno:
Quote:
Wax is nothing more than a petrloeum based product that temporalily fills minor imperfections, swirl marks and enhances gloss and beads water until it is either washed off or the heat from the sun bakes the petroleum off the car. Yes, some are much better than others and even those don`t do squat for what you are claiming.
While waxing helps the appearnce the quality and the correct application of the clearcoat (needs 2 `dry` mils for max protection) is going to determine what permaeates it and stains it (like gasoline does on cheap clears), by nature the polyurethane clear is waterporoof and even if you waxed your ride every day of your life if it sees any type of daylight (UV doesn`t care about clouds) and it lacks quality UV inhibotors in its resin system you are wasting your time beacuse its going to yellow and eventually peel because wax won`t stop a thing.
Sure a freshly waxed car looks slick and beads water but that`s about all its good for so whats the point of beading water other than you might have chance of air drying a freshly rained on vehicle with minimal waterspots? Of course the fastest way to produce a gloss on a finish is to add petroleum plus oils give you that false sensing of eliminating minor scratches and swirls marks when all that really happened was you filled them with oil/wax unless you actually took the time to correctly buff/polish these blemishes a way.
Keep this in mind too: if your Toy doesn`t have 2 mils of actual clear on it from the factory even under the slim to none chance Toyota uses the best clear coat out there that lack of 2 mils will cost you durability, UV protection and gloss over time and perfect example was I painted my mom`s 60K mile dent free 97 Camry which was 4M9 from the factory (that champagne color where the body never matched the door handles or bumpers from the factory) because the paint was detoriated to the point it was about to delaminate.
Sure the car had idiot proof Toy quality but it had an early 90`s GM paint job and I haven`t seen much improvement over the years.
I`ll agree with the general consensus Toyota produces some of the highest quality mass produced vehicles at the moment but don`t think for a second your factory paint job is more than medicocre. If it were they would warranty it for at least as long as the bumper to bumper warranty but they know better.
Also, the next time you look at a Toyota with a $699 paint protection package ask the salesperson in a concerned voice if that magical paint sealant is available to body shops in case your new car is wrecked and must be painted (because when you consider a gallon `kit` that is just about enough to spray 2 Camry`s allover of DuPont, Spies or PPG`s best clear costs about $300 this magical paint sealant that costs $699 needs to replaced on these inferior panels that were freshly painted because wouldn`t it be just devestating if these new panels faded faster than these old panels with the magic sealant on them ) the typical line is something like any auto paint store carries it and every body shop has access to it.
I can tell you this for a fact: Over the last 15 years I have called on and sold to no less than 500 unique auto paint stores in the SE and have millions and millions of dollars automotive coating marketing experience in addition to my own painting experience and not only does this product not exist in an auto paint store or a body shop but you have purchased $699 in snake oil that hopefully yielded you a single hand glaze or hand wax job that will wash off in 3 to 4 weeks.
The only thing worse than paying for this package is paying the added dealer profit (usually about $499) on your sales sheet in the finance room. A tip here is you can bring up it and say you aren`t going to pay it like a wimp then FI guy will make serious page to the salesperson who will in return back up the FI guy and say every spineless sucker pays this added dealer profit. Or you can say it with some balls and walk your arse out over it like a real man with a sack would. Everytime I`ve walked out over this pure BS I`ve been invited back and intially they try to counter it but tell them to get bent and they`ll waive it. Only suckers pay made up fees on a piece of paper.
He shure knows his stuff:grinno: