Carpet Queries

[2.5RS]

I`ve got a couple questions for the carpet cleaning gurus in the forum.

I recently purchased a small Aztec HWE and currently am not quite sure what to think of it. Reading through the instruction booklet I notice that more than once they refer to the tank that holds the clean heated water as the "Solution Tank" however, later in the booklet they tell me that the machine is intended for hot water use only. Aren`t you supposed to use your carpet cleaning chemicals in the tank? Why would you need to flush the tank and lines every few uses if there is no chemical residue to build up in there?

The instruction booklet is a bit nebulous.



Also, after what steps do you extract? Do you do it more than once?

For Example

Pre-Treat Stains (Folex in todays case)

Apply Traffic Lane Cleaner (Prochems Trafficlean)

Extract?

Rinse/Extraction Detergent (Prochems Dry Slurry)

Extract again?

Or would you simply extract as the last step?



Thanks

- Andrew

[David Fermani]

Yes - You can put the chemical solution in the tank. Some people just use hot water to clean after presoaking. It`s alway a good idea when using chemicals in the tank to go over the entire area with just plain water to extract not only the dirt, but the chemicals too. It`s also a good idea to dry brush the soiled area with a stiff brush prio to getting wet. I like even using a metal wire brush on carpet(not the seats). Pre-brushing loosens up the dirt and fabic which will allow the extractor to bite into the fabric better.

[2.5RS]

Anyone else have experience with the Aztec? or just hot water extractors in general?

[imported_Shaun Carollo]

I have the Durrmaid version of the Aztec. I only use straight water in the "solution tank." No problems so far. I personally wouldn`t ever use chemicals in the solution tank.

[Wetwerks]

We are currently using the Mytee HP60 and only put water in the "solution tank".



process:



1. vac area

2. pre-treat spots, heavy traffic area

3. pre wet area with extractor

4. spray chemical from spray bottle

5. agitate with brush

6. extract

7. 2nd pass with extractor no water (picks up water you may have missed)





This has been working for us on 99% of the vehicles. Some do require several passes, but we can usually get it right the first pass.



We don`t like putting any chemicals into the "tank", some of the soaps can cause premature failure of the heater element or pump due to residue build up. We usually run some "Mytee" system cleaner to de-scale anything that may have accumulated hard water deposits. The water here in Austin is pretty hard!





Walter

Co-owner

[imported_Grouse]

The solution tank is your rinse agent. That is kind of a misnomer as the rinse agent can be, a fiber rinse (professional carpet/upholstery), slurry (rinse detergent), Surfactant detergent (pre conditioner) or plain water.



If you are using a pre conditioner ultra pac, bio-clean traffic lane cleaner, upholstry prespray i could stick to either a Fiber rinse or a Slurry. Both will do a better job removing the dirt and preconditioner than just water.



Just water in the tank is also fine. It will do a fine job at removing dirt and detergents.



For me it is:



Dry vacuum

Dry vacuum

Pre spot ie, solvent for grease, enzyme for food and protien, detergent for dirt and grime, acidic detergent for urine, coffee, teas

Precondition with traffic lane cleaner

Lightly agitate

Extract with solution tank full of dry slurry.

Dry stroke.

dry stroke

extract again

Dry stroke,

dry stroke

dry stroke

apply scotch gaurd

Set up air movers to rapidly dry vehicle.