Best Results

[av6gp]

From my understanding of the research i have been doing, will the following turn out the best possible results?



-Wash

-Dry

-Clay

-Wash

-Dry

-Swirl Remover (depending on surface i am working on)

-Polish

-Wax



Now what i don`t understand is whether a regular polish and a finishing polish is the same? Also, where does a "glaze" product come into play if at all?



I would appreciate any help..Thanks!

[David703]

wash

dry

clay

I don`t re-wash

swirl remover (polish) will depend on the severity of defects in paint

polish (final polish)

glaze

wax

[av6gp]

wash

dry

clay

I don`t re-wash

swirl remover (polish) will depend on the severity of defects in paint

polish (final polish)

glaze

wax





Now does that have to be a product called "finishing polish" or can it just be any polish? Also, does the glaze go by any other name when referring to products?

[Juztang]

First are you going to be doing this by hand or machine?

[Juztang]

Basically you start with a light abrassive polish and if that doesn`t work move up to a more agressive polish. It also depends on what pads you use. Like you could use a compound and then step to to a polish and that will be your (final) polish. The glaze goes on next. There are many different kinds of glazes. I always go with ClearKote Red and Vanilla Moose depending on the colore of the vehicle.

[av6gp]

First are you going to be doing this by hand or machine?



By machine...do you happen to have a link to the clearkote or moose stuff?

[Envious Eric]

wash

dry

clay (clay and dry per section you do)

compound - remove defect

polish - remove lighter defects/bring out the depth and gloss

glaze - lots of depth and shine with some filling action

sealant wax for durable protection/carnauba for amazing depth and wetness



bored in class so here is a link

http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/pro02.pl?ref=exceldetail&ct=40315

[velobard]

I have to wonder why so many people think you have to wash again after claying???



Anyway, you can buy the Clearkote stuff directly from their website at http://www.clearkote.com or they also have links to other online dealers for their products.

[Grimm]

Yeah, if you are polishing anyway, I wouldn`t bother with rewashing. As mentioned with polishing you want to start out with the least agressive. But if you have the standard mess of swirls and scratches you will likely have two polishing steps; one aggressive with a compound (referred to as a swirl remover) and a cutting pad (typically orange), and one step with a polish and a polishing pad (typically white). Then if you still have swirls that you want to fill, a glaze may be your choice because they have fillers. Then you top it off with a carnuba wax. I don`t believe you can use a sealant over a glaze because it won`t bond with the glaze. If you don`t use a glaze you can use a sealant, and if you want, top it off with a carnuba wax.

[av6gp]

Yeah, if you are polishing anyway, I wouldn`t bother with rewashing. As mentioned with polishing you want to start out with the least agressive. But if you have the standard mess of swirls and scratches you will likely have two polishing steps; one aggressive with a compound (referred to as a swirl remover) and a cutting pad (typically orange), and one step with a polish and a polishing pad (typically white). Then if you still have swirls that you want to fill, a glaze may be your choice because they have fillers. Then you top it off with a carnuba wax. I don`t believe you can use a sealant over a glaze because it won`t bond with the glaze. If you don`t use a glaze you can use a sealant, and if you want, top it off with a carnuba wax.





Ok...let me start off with saying all this stuff is very stressful..but i guess i`ll learn as i go on. So i`m about ready to purchase all these products and need some last minute advice. I have decided to go with either pinnacles xmt or poorboys ssr line for swirl remover. Does anybody have experiece with both and prefer one over the other? Also, if i have very light swirls will #2 followed by number #1 followed by a finishing polish be a good way of doing the process? Would it be a good idea to follow up the finishing polish with the glaze, then followed with a carnuba wax? I have decided on pinnacle finishing polish and their finishing glaze unless someone would suggest otherwise. Now here is the tricky part as Grimm suggested...since i was set on the glaze...what is a good carnuba wax to finish up this long process...because i was pretty set on klasse all in one followed by their finishing sealant. Since this dosen`t seem to be possible, should i stay with the finishing polish and jump to the all in one and finish with the sealant and possibly add a carnuba on top of that...OR should i just stick with the glaze and use a quality carnuba wax?



Now whichever way i go what do you guys think of the klassee products?...any other sealants you would suggest?



And as for waxes, i am open to suggestions because i cannot justify spending the 80

bucks on the pinnacle souveran paste wax. Is the liquid version equally as good? Or are there other waxes with equal quality and outcomes?



By the way my car is a 2006 Honda Accord Graphite Pearl



Thanks ahead you guys have been a great help thus far and this forum has been great, however now find myself a little addicted..lol.. :grinno:

[neonecko]

Hi! I drive an 04 Honda Accord Graphite Pearl and my favorite combos so0o far are Red Moose Glaze + Pinnacle Souverin; Z5 + Pinnacle Souverin. But its winter time, So I`m currently using Z5 + #16.

[Eliot Ness]

.......Now whichever way i go what do you guys think of the klassee products?...any other sealants you would suggest?



And as for waxes, i am open to suggestions because i cannot justify spending the 80

bucks on the pinnacle souveran paste wax. Is the liquid version equally as good? Or are there other waxes with equal quality and outcomes?.....Personally I would go with OC (http://store.danase.com/opco.html) and OP (http://store.danase.com/optimumpolish.html) because they are so easy to work with. I haven`t used the XMT polishes but I have used the SSR line (2.5 and 1) which work just fine, but the OPT, I think, would be a little easier to start out with, plus it is a great product.



If you use the finishing glaze you don`t want to use AIO and SG (AIO will remove the glaze and SG won`t bond to a glaze).



For a very good, yet economical, wax I`d go with Natty`s (http://store.danase.com/powonapawax.html) on a light color or Natty`s Blue (http://store.danase.com/powonablford.html) on a darker color. Another very good glaze/wax combo would be RMG (http://store.danase.com/clredmomagl.html) topped with the Natty`s or CMW (http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/pro02.pl?ref=exceldetail&ct=40315&pd=97676) .



Klasse is good, but you have to decide if you`re going to use a sealant, a wax, or a sealant topped with a wax. There are other great sealers out there like Zaino, JW, and Duragloss just to name a few, but at some point you`re going to have to just jump in and order some products. If you ask the advice of 12 members you might get 8 or 10 different answers because we all have products that we personally like, plus there is a lot to choose from.

[Grimm]

I got the Optimum line and for being my first times detailing it was very easy to use and doesn`t dust at all. Good stuff. :2thumbs:

[av6gp]

Thanks guys for all your quick answers!! I have one more question before i place my order...do i need a counterweight with a 5 inch backing plate...and is there any advantage to either the 5" or 6" backing plate besides that the 5" is a little more forgiving?

[AngieD]

I have a 6 inch pad with mine. I did a lot of research on this a while back and it seems like it is 50/50. Some prefer 6 some prefer 5. You can just use the counterweight the comes with the pc.