single stage red - how to make it wet?

[xinkid]

Hello, I am asking this question because after spending 4 hours on the hood of my red 93 Toyota MR2 with #80 speed glaze, #81 hand polish and one coat of Collinite 845, I was really happy with the way it turned out. I pulled the car out this morning and immediately noticed the clear and deep reflections of clouds and tree branches. But, when I asked my wife to compare the hood and the slightly oxidized, swirled roof, she said the hood is only a *little* shinier and that the untouched roof is already very shiney.



I was like.. :furious: "can`t you see that the paint is so many more times clearer and deeper?!" I was really pissed that someone else can`t see the big difference... I feel like I didn`t make enough of a difference for "ordinary" eyes to appreciate. I`m going to do half of the roof next and tape off the other half to make the comparison easier. In the mean time, is there anything else I can do to bring up the depth and wetness as much as possible?



My other question is when I applied #81, I noticed that it spreads very far and I was able to spread it over the entire hood. Then went over the entire area with the pc many times but it never completely disappeared. I think after the 5th time, I stopped and wiped the rest off. Does that sound right?

[Grimm]

Some people just aren`t atuned to those kinds of details, especially on a car.

[mr.ikon]

sent you a pm

[imported_smprince1]

Some people just aren`t atuned to those kinds of details, especially on a car.



I agree ... it`s just that simple. :)

[xinkid]

I agree ... it`s just that simple. :)



thank you, that makes it easier for me. ;)



How about my other question about if I can do anything to make the paint look wetter than #81 + Collinite 845? What I noticed today is that the paint looked very clear and deep but wetness was lacking. It`s single stage red if it makes a difference.



Also about how too apply #81.. do I have to work it until it disappears or do I just have to work it for a while, like several minutes on a body panel before buffing the rest off?



I wish I brought my camera so I can post pics of how it looks now.. Will do that tomorrow!

thanks!

[usracer900]

Hello, I am asking this question because after spending 4 hours on the hood of my red 93 Toyota MR2 with #80 speed glaze, #81 hand polish and one coat of Collinite 845, I was really happy with the way it turned out. I pulled the car out this morning and immediately noticed the clear and deep reflections of clouds and tree branches. But, when I asked my wife to compare the hood and the slightly oxidized, swirled roof, she said the hood is only a *little* shinier and that the untouched roof is already very shiney.



I was like.. :furious: "can`t you see that the paint is so many more times clearer and deeper?!" I was really pissed that someone else can`t see the big difference... I feel like I didn`t make enough of a difference for "ordinary" eyes to appreciate. I`m going to do half of the roof next and tape off the other half to make the comparison easier. In the mean time, is there anything else I can do to bring up the depth and wetness as much as possible?



My other question is when I applied #81, I noticed that it spreads very far and I was able to spread it over the entire hood. Then went over the entire area with the pc many times but it never completely disappeared. I think after the 5th time, I stopped and wiped the rest off. Does that sound right?





Wow, that’s funny you posted this because I JUST bought a red 93’ MR2 (nonturbo) and have started the polishing process myself. I’m using a PC with yellow and white 7 ½ pads and my process so far has been : 3M medium cut compound (twice), Meguires step 1 polishing compound (twice), Meguires polishing compound step 2 (twice) then a layer of Zymol wax by hand.



I only did the engine bay/cover and spoiler and it took me 3 hours and the results are pretty good so far. It was definitely faded and whiteish in spots before and now it’s mostly a reddish orange color and shiny. I’d like to achieve the deep red color though, is this possible? I’ve used Menzurna in the past but I’ve run out of product, would this work better on bringing back a deep red color than the Meguires products? Also, I can still see some swirl marks under halogen lighting in my garage. Do I need to go more abrasive than 3M medium cut compound? I was thinking about the Menzurna Power Gloss?



I’ll post pics soon too. Glad to have the support here!

[xinkid]

cool! my MR2 is also N/A (nonturbo).

regarding the Meguiar`s step 1 and and step 2, is that the deep crystal system you are using? I think step 1 is a cleaner with very mild abrassives. Probably not enough to remove swirls. step 2 is a "pure polish" that is supposed to deepen the look of the paint. So, if you still have swirls left, I would say go over with the 3M compound again. I had to go over the hood multiple times with #80 to get it to be free of swirls and only a few very deep scratches and bird poop etching remain. I`m leaving them alone because I don`t like to thin the paint too much.




I’d like to achieve the deep red color though, is this possible?



I noticed that the paint became noticeably deeper and richer after using #81. I`m still looking for something that will give a wetter look than #81 + Collinite 845. I think single stage paints don`t look as good in cloudy weather as they are not as reflective as clearcoats. I think they look excellent in full sun though.

[LeadingEdgeDetail]

My recommendation?



Try #5 Glaze, 2 or 3 coats right after each other, working it in good. Or Clearkote RedMooseGlaze



Then top that with a coat of 845 or w/e you want, and top it with some Natty`s Blue Carnauba... Wettest wax I`ve found!

[usracer900]

Here`s a few pics of what I`m up against. What would you recommend to bring back the deep red color and get rid of those swirls? I posted earlier what approach I`m using and looking for something more effective.



Xinkid, is yours this bad? Keep in mind these pics make it look a little better than in person. Also, in the two closeup pics of the engine bay, I applied DACP by hand in one spot just to see what the results would be.



Thanks for all the advice, I need it!

[usracer900]

cool! my MR2 is also N/A (nonturbo).

regarding the Meguiar`s step 1 and and step 2, is that the deep crystal system you are using? I think step 1 is a cleaner with very mild abrassives. Probably not enough to remove swirls. step 2 is a "pure polish" that is supposed to deepen the look of the paint. So, if you still have swirls left, I would say go over with the 3M compound again. I had to go over the hood multiple times with #80 to get it to be free of swirls and only a few very deep scratches and bird poop etching remain. I`m leaving them alone because I don`t like to thin the paint too much.





I believe it is the deep crystal system. It seems to work pretty well, I only use steps 1 and 2 though. Wouldn`t the 3M compound be more effective at removing swirls than step 1? Also, I tried some DACP initally for comparison and the 3M`s pad was noticeably more red so I figured the 3M was a bit more abrasive and went with it.

[xinkid]

Thanks for the recommendation! I was reading and saw that the RMG + Natty`s Blue combo came up a lot :) Do you know if RMG has "trade secret oils" that are supposed to be good for SS paint? That is my only concern. I wonder if the RMG is any better than #81 though.. has anyone done a comparison of the two?



Looks like I will be getting some Natty`s Blue. Argg.. more detailing products.. :shocked




My recommendation?



Try #5 Glaze, 2 or 3 coats right after each other, working it in good. Or Clearkote RedMooseGlaze



Then top that with a coat of 845 or w/e you want, and top it with some Natty`s Blue Carnauba... Wettest wax I`ve found!

[xinkid]

usracer900, I think my car is much better than yours. My jar actually dropped when I picked it up several months ago. I couldn`t believe the paint still looked so good. BUT, I think part of it was because the wax he used hid the oxidation quite well, it wasn`t very bad. Here`s what the car looked like when I picked it up.

http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/110564-1/DCP_1262.jpg

Where is the swirls and oxidation you ask? Just take a look at a full sun picture I took of the trunk and engine lid AFTER I power washed the car. I think somehow the powerwash stripped off the wax because the paint looked much duller after wards. :( I was "forced" to use the coin operated power wash because it was too hot out and I didn`t have a shade.

http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/109480-2/DSCF0930.JPG

http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/109483-2/DSCF0931.JPG

[Eliot Ness]

........Do you know if RMG has "trade secret oils" that are supposed to be good for SS paint? ........While I love RMG on red base/clear finishes it doesn`t really contain any wax or silicone so it won`t really provide the "trade secret oils" you`re looking for. The best glaze for that is Meg`s #7, it is mostly oils that feed the paint, and was pretty much made for SS paint. While not the easiest glaze to use it will provide the oils you`re looking for and you should be able to apply a wax as a topper to prolong the look.



Below is a link by Mike Phillips (of Meg`s) on how to use #7:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23740

[Envious Eric]

did you even compound it??? something like 83 on a cutting pad, or a polishing pad, then 80 on a polishing pad, then 81/82, then glaze, then carnauba would look amazing

[Scottwax]

did you even compound it??? something like 83 on a cutting pad, or a polishing pad, then 80 on a polishing pad, then 81/82, then glaze, then carnauba would look amazing



Agreed. I think you will need to start with #83 to really bust through the oxidation. I did that on a red Porsche 944 and it really helped.



I started here, and as you can see it isn`t as bad as the car you are doing, so if this one needed #83, yours definitely does.



EDIT-if the pics aren`t working it is because the gallery is being worked on at the moment.



http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/1987_Porsche_944_frontend_before.jpg



I actually started off with Optimum Hyper Compound to remove the swirls but then switching to #83 really improved the depth.



http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/1987_Porsche_944_frontend_HC_83.jpg



I ended up finishing it out with #80 and #16.