detailing a respray...

[Envious Eric]

what precautions need to be taken? i have a guy who wants me to detail his truck which has a factory color of green, but was repainted white with a cheapo job as he puts it...This guy also says it hasnt ben washed in a year because its being turned into an offroad truck and is getting "built" as the current time...do I just attack it like I would with a CC car? wash, clay, rinse, paint cleaner, polish, sealant?



I will have some pics soon, but what should I look out for? what questions shoud I ask about the paint besides if it has a clearcoat - if any ?`s I should ask....

[amjf088]

Bacically, yes. I painted my project very recently and have used both a rotary and a PC to finish it off after wetsanding. However, I used high quality products (Glasurit throughout) and did several sets of clear with wetsanding in between (six coats) so it is nothing like a typical cheapo job. However, the real variables will be the type of paint and the amount of clear (assuming a base/clear job). Most paints that are used in body shops these days are activated with isocyanate-based hardeners, which means the paint SHOULD respond in a fairly similar fashion to OEM. I guess given the unknowns it is best to stay away from agressive polishing and perhaps start in the least obvious spot.

[velobard]

So the repaint was done a year ago? If it`s a fresh repaint, there`s considerations to allow curing, but if it`s a "mature" repaint more than a few months old, I`d say your routine is fine.

[paul34]

if its a cheapo job as in a Maaco job, then I think that guy will be losing the paint after probably a year anyway ;)

[Envious Eric]

the guy said he believes there is a clear on it. it was resprayed over two years ago, but hasnt been taken care of in the last year....besides looking for paint on the pads, what else should i be looking out for?

[SpoiledMan]

....besides looking for paint on the pads, what else should i be looking out for?



Paint coming off the body! :eek:

[velobard]

With an older repaint like this, especially since he claims it was a cheaper job, if it was my car I`d try to give the LSPs their best shot at protection. With the Duragloss line, I`d use their 601 PBA and top with at least a couple layers of 105 or 111. With FK1 I`d lay down a couple layers of 2180, which is supposed to do an excellent job of bonding with the paint, then top with a couple layers of 1000P sealant. I don`t know what products you have or prefer, but you see where I`m going with this...prep the surface as best you can, then protect with more LSP than usual since the paint may not be up to it as well as it should.