Another First timer on the PC!!! Didn`t go that well...

[cchiu1026]

Well finally got the 7336sp as I have started to get more in detail with detailing in all aspects. I found some shops that carried Megs DA BP and Megs Pads I purchased the 7006, 8006, and 9006. I also picked up some Megs #82 since I really wanted to use my new tool. I knew I needed to practice so why not practice on my neglected 2003? Moutaineer. The reason why it was neglected was because it had been vandalized a bunch with eggs and key marks, etc. etc. The paint had a good amount of swirls as I can see. I`m also learning all the terminology so please correct me if i`m wrong.



Here are some before I did anything photos:

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Untouched-1.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Untouched-2.jpg http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Untouched-3.jpg



Results of my Washed SUV:



Process:

Meg Gold Class Car Wash (2 Bucket)

Meg Synthetic Wash Mitt

Dried with WW Towel and MF Towels



http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Washed-1.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Washed-2.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Washed-3.jpg

I KNOW YOU GUYS LOVE THIS ONE!!!

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Washed-4.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Washed-5.jpg



Next I Parked the Car in the Garage and Lit up some Craftsman lighting. Here`s the Damage:



http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Garaged-1.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Garaged-2.jpg

[cchiu1026]

continued....



So I started on the rear passenger side door. Taped up and went to work, I did 2 passes with Megs#82 using Megs 8006 Polishing Pad and this is how I did. There was some hazing so I figured I didn`t break it down enough... I pretty much tried to follow the site http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/.



http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/After-2-Passes.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/After-2-Passes-1.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/After-2-Passes-2.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/After-2-Passes-3.jpg



Well because of the hazing and the conclusion that I didn`t break it down enough so what I did was start a 3rd pass with the same setup. Unfortunately things didn`t do to swell the pad had flung off the back plate, so I inspected it and the velcro was detached and flung off. Sigh....:



http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Pad-Results-1.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn/Chiuy/Pad-Results-2.jpg



Final Shot since there was no where to purchase a BP.



http://premium1.uploadit.org/seanjohn//Final-Shot-of-the-Night.jpg

WITHIN RED BOX = POLISHED AREA



Well I have some pads(LC) and a BP on the way that I ordered through TopoftheLine.com. They will be arriving wed. Along with that is Hi-Tech Extreme Cut, Optimum Compound and Polish, Menzerna IP and FPII. Ohh yeah not to mention I purchased a P21S today.



Does anyone have any question, recommendations, advice, critisim, or something to say????



Chris

[imported_themightytimmah]

Yeah, I`d go over the entire car with the Hi-Temp mixed 50:50 with Optimum polish via orange pad, than optimum compound via white polishing pad, than FPII. You might want to look into a good glaze for hiding the damage that won`t come out.

[BigAl3]

if you`re going the megs route again, you may want to pick up some #80 and #83. also, what speed setting did you use on the backing plate when it came apart?

[cchiu1026]

Well I pretty much spread out the polish with Speed 4, then I went to 6 to break it in, every phase. Well it sucks right now cause i still need that backing plate, I do have a #2 or is that too abrassive for this job? But other than that when I get my shipment in, I have the LC Orange and White pads. Any recommendations on glazes? I have Klasse AIO and SG, or is there a better option out there??? Did it look as if I did anything wrong during any part of the process???



Chris

[martinager]

As stated, look a High Temp EC / Optimum Polish 50/50 on the pad. If you do go this route, it will have a long working time.



I also recommend some Pinnacle XMT 3.

[justin30513]

I also recommend some Pinnacle XMT 3.



I second that.

Plus, you might want to try the EDGE pad system. No back plate. I love mine.

[BigAl3]

then I went to 6 to break it in, every phase.



though most everyone uses 6 on here (not saying you can`t), that could be the reason why your backing plate failed. i find in my experience, that using it at 6 the machine gets real hot (potential to melt backing plate as well), and for that reason i don`t use it past 5. but hey... whatever works for you, good luck on your future details!

[cchiu1026]

though most everyone uses 6 on here (not saying you can`t), that could be the reason why your backing plate failed...



So should I drop it to 5?



Ohh yeah any recommendations on Wash Mitts and MF Towels?



Chris

[BigAl3]

So should I drop it to 5?



Ohh yeah any recommendations on Wash Mitts and MF Towels?



Chris



i use it at 5 and focus on more on technique (slow arm movement/pressure, multiple passes in different directions, etc). yesterday, i worked on my buddy`s honda element (each car is different though) as he had scrapes on the side of his car from bush shrubs and i was able to take them out with a few passes of #83 and i followed it up with #80 (the recommendations above should work fine as well). if you want something quick and locally, go to your local walmart and pick up a few eurow sheepskin mitts and make sure to feel and pick carefully for the plushest ones. also, k-mart has the viking quick detailing microfiber towels that are just as nice as any other boutique ones sold online....



p.s. once again... not saying you can`t use it at 6, but there is the risk factor of something happening like your incident...

[CroMag]

Your finish looks fairly similar to mine - black with quite a bit of marring and swirl marks. I haven`t used #82, but IIRC, it doesn`t have the cut to take care of all that. My experience has been that you are going to need something heavier to go after those scratches and then a finer polish to get rid of any hazing or micromarring, which it appears you have a little of in that side-by-side. The 50/50 HC/OP mix seems to be used quite a bit, so that may be worth a try.



It looks like you are on the right track though. You aren`t going to get the results of some of the pros on this site your first time out, and my experience is that it`s definitely going to take a several passes and a few products to get it where you want. Keep after it, don`t get frustrated, and it should turn out great.

[Grimm]

You should contact the place you got the backing plate from, good chance they will replace it. I`ll be working on our 2000 Mountaineer soon as well. I think you got pretty decent results for the first time. I have a black Bonneville and am finding I can`t get everything out either, but I`ve already got 10 hours into it, so I`ll just go over it again in the spring and see if it can`t look better.

[Accumulator]

cchiu1026- Sorry to hear about your troubles, sounds pretty frustrating.



As they said, you`re on the right track now. No real need to "go back" to Meg`s stuff, there are plenty of good product lines out there and the H-T and Optimum are among them. You should be all set with regard to polishing products, use those a few times and get the hang of them.



Your backing plate issue brings up the advisability of having spares, both pads and backing plates. Speed 6 is often the *right* speed to use (*IMO*) and not using it because you`re worried about a plate/pad failure is letting the pooper-scooper wag the dog ;)



Regarding glazes, the glaze approach is basically incompatible with the Klasse approach (the AIO strips off glazes and KSG is picky about what it bonds to). FWIW I only use Klasse on vehicles I can basically get perfect, as it doesn`t hide any flaws for me. Maybe you`d be better off with a glaze/carnauba approach. Lots of people like RMG and P21s wax. I myself lean towards Meg`s #5 topped with Collinite wax.



Mitts and MFs: any mitt that`s nice and soft is good. I`d test it on the data side of a CD- if it doesn`t scratch the CD it won`t scratch your vehicle. Remember to test properly, in this case that means both the CD and the mitt should be wet and the mitt should be wet with a shampoo mix (you want to duplicate the usage conditions as best you can). For MFs, I`m currently leaning towards those from PakShack. I sure wouldn`t pinch pennies when it comes to something you`re gonna be rubbing your paint with, but that`s not to say that others aren`t perfectly fine.



[Insert Accumulator`s usual recommendations regarding foamguns here]

[qadsan]

#82 definitely won`t remove those kinds of defects with a D/A, but it probably would be more effective with a rotary. #80 would have been a much better starting point with the D/A and you might even need #83 for some of that stuff, but #80 is extremely versatile simply by changing things such as arm speed, pad pressure, shrinking the work area, pad choice, etc. Megs is pretty clear about not using speed 6 with their BP or pads and they recommend speed 5 as their max safe speed. The Hi-Tech Extreme Cut and or Optimum Compound or Menzerna IP will surely give you better results for those kinds of defects, but so would the Megs #80, etc. You`ve got some great product to choose from (HT E/C, OC/OP & Menzerna) and your Moutaineer will soon be looking better than ever!

[cchiu1026]

Thanks for the input guys, definately I want to be able to get to the rotary opportunity also. Everyone in my area that I have met only use Rotaries and don`t know anything about the PC DA. Well I knew that the #82 may not have been the best thing to use but deffinately I wanted to use the least aggressive rule to begin with. I guess i`m a very maticulous person when it comes to this due to the fact that I don`t want to screw up my paint or let alone anyone elses. Is there anyway to be able to just choose a perticular type of aggressivness level, or maybe just a rule of thumb? I know of course that will come with experience, and I know that a paint thickness gauge will help (don`t think I can afford the digital kind, and don`t know if there is any other option). Maybe a magnifier like a eyepiece or something??? Definately trying to improve with the least amount of trial and error.



I also purchased a MF Drying towel from Target, the brand was Vroom, I also did use the CD method for testing and it came out to be scratchless. Cost was $8 24x40...



Thanks again,

Chris