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58fury
09-25-2006, 11:22 AM
Seeing how i have almost a full bottle of meguiars #7 show car glaze, id rather use it up before getting Klasse ect, so im thinking of claying, then #7, then top w wax, would this be an ok choice? or should i just opt for the Klasse? also when applying #7 is it best to let haze, or not

Accumulator
09-25-2006, 12:21 PM
The #7/wax approach is as old as time itself and it works well. The wax even help with a little #7-streaking if you get it. It`s a very different approach compared to Klasse, but I prefer it on some vehicles (but not on others ;) ).



#7 is a funny product...it doesn`t really dry like a wax and yet it`s not a W-O-W-O either. The best advice I can give is to find the definitive "how to" that Mike Phillips (product application expert from Meguiar`s) posted.



Short version- you let it "skin" where the top is pretty close to dry but some of the product is still wet, wipe off excess. Repeat. Mike applies it to the whole car kinda quickly and then goes around it twice wiping it off. I do it a bit differently, preferring to work one panel at a time. You never let it completely dry (I did that on a black Pontiac in `77 and I *still* shudder at what a mess it was :hairpull ).



Read Mike`s write-up for starters and then see what works for you. There *is* a learning curve with #7.

58fury
09-25-2006, 12:55 PM
thanks, ya ive read posts on #7 and the removal process, skinning ect, just not sure i need to use it or not, i bought an anit rust module w car, but they also had to apply a sealant by hand, so im trying to figure out whether or not i need to glaze/polish at all? even claying, if i clay it will remove most ot the sealant correct? im thinking of just applying a few coats of wax?

58fury
09-25-2006, 01:32 PM
btw, for some reason Meg #20 is not sold here anymore?? i called uap napa/ Cmax where ive purchased before, and he couldnt find it in the computer?? may just order Klass SG instead of using #7

Accumulator
09-26-2006, 11:07 AM
In this case (dealer applied sealant) I`d just top it with a decent wax, probably something like Collinite. I wouldn`t put a glaze/etc. like #7 on top of it. I would`t put KSG over it either. Aggressive claying might/might not cut through the sealant, but I wouldn`t do the claying that aggressively unless you have a good reason to do so. All-in-all I`d probably just top the existing sealant with a carnauba.



Remember that the sealant has to be refreshed from time to time to keep its warranty intact. Hope they don`t mess the finish up when they do that...

58fury
09-26-2006, 11:25 AM
odds are ill just wash, inspect, and top w wax, prob 2 coats, in my current stock of waxes are, S100, Pinnacle Paste Glaz, #26, NXT, and Gold class, im thinking either NXT or Pinn? and as far as the sealant goes, all i have to do is see them once a year for inspection, and the sealant is re applied only after 5yrs, im glad its not every year. Of the above waxes what would you rec? in the spring ill prob clay and get new wax, either Pinn Sig series II or maybe just souveran or Nattys blue wax, which ive heard good things about, my paint is deepwater blue, very dark blue

Accumulator
09-26-2006, 04:42 PM
On that color, of the waxes you mentioned, I`d probably go with Paste Glaz, 26, or Souveran. But honestly, I`d apply Collinite 476S (for the durability) if it were mine.



I have no idea if the very mild cleaners in GC and NXT would mess with the sealant, but I wouldn`t want to find out the hard way either. I know I`m in the minority, but I just wasn`t impressed with the P21S/S100 so that one doesn`t appeal to me.