Help, PC + SFX-1 = no difference?

[NaterGator]

I`m trying to deal with the black 540i which has bad swirl marks and water spots, and I`m using SFX-1 and a SFX-1 pad on the PC. I dont know what the problem is, but I feel like I`m getting nowhere. I also feel like the paint is eating my pad up because when the polish begins to "dry" I get a fair amount of pad dust.



This is my first PC job, so I don`t know exactly what to expect. I am noticing two things though: its taking no time at all for the polish to "dry" up to the point where I can barely see it, perhaps 30 seconds. I am trying not to use too much polish because I feel pretty confident I`m going to run out before I finish the car. Is my issue that I need to use more, or just the florida heat? I`m polishing in my garage, so its not in direct sun, but it is still darn hot!



Any advice? Am I just using too "light" of a polish/compound for the severity of the paint flaws? Or perhaps the paint is beyond repair by the PC and needs a rotary buffer?



Back out to the garage I go to try and clean this sucker up some more.

-----Nate

[imported_02ZTSfocus]

Is the car cool to the touch? If the surface of the car is hot (which is to be expected with a black car in Florida) it might cause the polish to dry out too quickly.

[ev01ut10ndt]

From my experience, working the sfx-1 by hand, is that it breaks down rather quickly. 30 sec is wut it took before the polish turned "clear". It also dusted too, but I havent had much experience to consider what is a lot. I went through a whole bottle of the sfx-1 just by doing 3 cars (midsize sedan size). Take my words lightly however, as I used the polishing pad by hand.

[NaterGator]

I`ve spent 4 hours on the hood of this thing so far, no luck! There is almost no noticeable difference. I`m starting out at lowest speed with moderate pressure, and increasing speed/decreasing pressure as the polish disappears. I have noticed that it goes "clear" but still has an oily feel, so I tried buffing to see if it would haze down and "dry" up, but after approx 3 mins or so I felt like it wasnt going anywhere and I was going to damage something.



So, do I just not have a strong enough products, or am I doing something wrong. I`ll try and go take pictures for reference.

[Scottwax]

You are going to have to get more aggressive if your current combination isn`t working.



You ought to consider trying Optimum`s polishes/compounds. You can work them forever and even in the full sun they don`t dry out.

[NaterGator]

Here`s what I`m getting, for visual reference:

Post 2x SFX-1

http://static.flickr.com/44/234119361_9dd136f941_b.jpg



Pre SFX-1

http://static.flickr.com/82/234119373_9a79c7e410_b.jpg



Trunk lid, no polish

http://static.flickr.com/79/234119376_ebead68614_b.jpg











You can see this paint is pretty bad. Maybe I`m just in over my head?

[Scottwax]

Honestly, that is a pretty big improvement considering how horrible that paint is to start with.

[NaterGator]

Indeed, looking at the flash pictures I can definitely see the paint`s improvement, so I`ve decided to just move along and hash it out. The paint is really just pathetic, I`m assuming its a neglected cheap repaint because if BMW factory paint gets this bad, it is worthless. As of right now I`m hitting all the panels with SFX-1 or what I have left of it anyways, and then going over everything with SFX-2. I have Sonus SwirlBuster polish as well as Paintwork cleanser and SFX-3, but I`m not sure if SwirlBuster or Painwork are worth favoring or applying over the SFX products. Would it be worth it to follow up SFX-1 with Swirlbuster and then SFX-2, etc?



Thanks for the replies....

[firegate]

I`m starting out at lowest speed with moderate pressure, and increasing speed/decreasing pressure as the polish disappears.



That could be your problem. For serious defect correction, you need to ramp the PC up to 5 or 6, place some pressure on it and move slowly (about 1-2in per second).

[NaterGator]

I`ve all but determined this car is repainted, because around the left taillight the clearcoat is peeling off like its not even bonded to the paint. It`s also very brittle and hard... but oh well!



Firegate, thanks. I started using SFX-1 at speed 4 with pretty decent pressure and that helped. I feel like I`m pushing SFX-1 to its abrasive limits and I would be better off with a more abrasive compound, but after almost a whole bottle of SFX-1 and more than 6 hours, I`ve finished my first stage of polishing. I`ve only got today and tomorrow before I go back up to UF and leave my dad his car, so I`ve got to get it as good as possible for now and definitely as protected as possible, because I know it will be rained on, sprinkled on, birded, etc without much attention while I am gone. As it stands right now, it still has pretty visible scratches and swirl marks, as well as bad water spots on the hood, but its much better than it was before.



Next step is Sonus Swirlbuster and or SFX-2!



Also, is Mother`s Back to Black available in any retail chains? Although I taped off all his trim it is definitely dry and lackluster, and could use some serious attention.



Thanks guys, I`m very happy to see the car getting some much deserved attention.

[Charlies02GLS]

Easy way of telling whether or not the car has been re-sprayed is to feel along the along the edges of the panels for roughness like sandpaper. Just for future reference...

[NaterGator]

Update:



Using SFX-2 and I`m having the damnedest time getting it off! I feel like this paint is porous... I use the PC until the SFX-2 is even and cleared up, but when I go to buff out with a sonus buffing towel it is difficult if not impossible to get it off the car.



Do I need to detail-spray before I start on SFX-3? The paint feels great and clean, but under flourescent overhead lights it is clear that there is residue of SFX-2 on there... the black looks streaky and not "deep" in areas....



This paint is killing me, it`s really awful!!! :sign :wall

[NaterGator]

More problems... I finished SFX-2, the paint looks largely like it did before, maybe marginally glossier.



Now I`m on to SFX-3 and I`ve hit a brick wall. It is even worse than SFX-2 in the hazing department. I polish at about 2.5-3 speed. It starts out nice and blue, spreads and seems to work, but as it dries it seems to go clear. There is no "haze" like the bottle/website says. Under certain lighting conditions there is a haze, but it is not at all what I expect they are talking about.



Seeing how I couldn`t get it off with a buffing towel I put some more SFX-3 on the applicator and tried stopping sooner just before the "clear" stage to see if I could get it off in it`s liquid form... but it seems like it dries up so the PC can gloss the paint, which makes removing it damn near impossible.



This is taking me hours upon hours, in fact I am going on 24 hours working on this car. I really don`t know if I am to blame or the paint, but I suspect it is a bit of both. If anyone has any ideas about what I may be doing wrong or what I need to do to the paint, please let me know! I need to get Klasse AIO on there for some protection and then P21S but at this rate I`m never going to get to AIO and I feel like if I do it will never come off.



Here is a pic of my SFX-3 problem as it stands now, if that helps.

http://static.flickr.com/90/234638872_a7dc4055fa_b.jpg

Thanks

-----Nate

[SpoiledMan]

First things first. Get that tag off that towel.



OK. From your statement and the picture, it looks as though you`re not breaking the polish down properly. Use the lower speed to spread the product and then crank it up to 5 and apply some pressure on the head of the machine. Work it until it turns clear and then remove. If it is difficult to remove, spray a light mist of water on it and then remove OR you can wet your towel, wring it out and use it to remove the residue.

[NaterGator]

Ok, I will make those changes to my application process.



I also found I was trying to use way too much. This stuff is much more oily than the other SFX products and a nickel sized blob did almost half the hood. I am still having a problem with the stuff leaving a "greasy" residue that doesn`t wipe up dry in a few areas, but I`m getting better and it seems to be making the paint look a little wetter, and although the effect is slight, anything on this paint is an improvement.





Just to clairfy: when you say apply some pressure... about how much? Like... I`m trying to stop bleeding pressure, I`m closing a filing cabinet pressure, I`m sliding the oven tray in pressure? From claying, DSing, and applying SFX-1 and 2 my arms are dead tired and I have a feeling I`ve been using more pressure than I probably needed to. Then again I think I needed something more agressive than SFX-1 because the hood still has a fairly poor if not smooth finish.



Oh well, I`ve got time before thanksgiving break and I can order more appropriate supplies for when I`m home next time. Then again, maybe it is time to tell the old man to repaint his 5.



But, I digress! Thanks for the help!