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imported_Dave KG
08-27-2006, 01:00 PM
Today`s Dundee Tag Team detail - a 1987 Lotus Excel, in solid white.



The car arrived yesterday evening with Bryan, so he got started preparing the car for polighint then... Here`s the car on arrival:



http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/1894/abefore1di9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/6679/abefore2jr5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



Bryan TFR`d the car first with Autoglym Power Max 3, then washed using the two-bucket method. This was then followed by claying the car, and washing out and dressing the arches ready for the polishing to commence today...



I arrived at 9am at Bryan`s ready to make a running start with the polishing - knowning it to be solid white, I suspected the paint might well be as hard as a rock and Bryan has said the swilrs were quite bad... Also, this car was glass fibre, so owing to its lack of ability to dissapate heat I decided to run with the PC on this car rather than the rotary. Also, our PTGs couldn`t get a reading from the glass fibre so I didn`t want to go ploughing in with compounds on a rotary.



So, a test section was masked off ready for the first product combo test. Here`s a pic of the swilrs we were dealing with under the Brinkmann:



http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2654/bswirlsbeforemegsbl4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



My first test was meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, applied using a Sonus SFX-1 Restore Pad (6"). Spread at speed 3, then several slow passes at speed 5 until the residue went transparent (must have been about ten passes). Residue wiped off, the result:



http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2097/caftermegsen9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



The #83 has done a great job of removing about 80% of the swilrs, but what remained were deeper scratches in the paint. I decided to mask off a neighbouring area and do aside by side test section to compare a more aggressive combo to see if it made an impact on the deeper scratches. It may have been these were just too deep to fully remove and so the #83 would have sufficed for the car. But it may have been a more aggressive combo would safely shift them. So to find out, on with a 4" SFX-1 restore pad and out with the Menzerna Power Gloss. Picture of test section number 2:



http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5853/bswrilsbeforemenzhu1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



Power Gloss applied using the slow-cut technique and then followed with Intensive Polish on a 6" LakeCountry Orange Light Cut pad to remove the micromarring. The end result of this combo:



http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7272/daftermenz1aa1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/5436/daftermenz2ba9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



The finish was this time noticeably sharper and much of the deeper scratches also removed, now only isolated very deep scratches remained. It was decided to leave the deep scratches owing to not knowing the paint thickness, and settle for the above defect removal which was around 95% defect removal.



So, I proceeded to Power Gloss the enture car using the slow-cut method while Bryan followed with the Intensive Polish to clear up the micromarring and refine the finish. It was then time to decided how to finish and seal the paint. Owing to it being a solid colur and the PCs tendancy to very very slightly micromarr solid colours in comparison to the rotary, it was decided to finish the car using Meguiars #80 on a Meguiars W8006 polishing pad and the top with Meguiars #16 Paste wax applied by hand to protect the finish. #80 was chosen as the mild abbrassive would further refine the finish and the oils in it would bring the solid colour out to a nice glossy finish.



So, I applied the Meguiars #80 - single pass at speed 3 and then several passes on speed 5 until the polish had fully broken down (residue goes clear). Bryan the followed round applying Meguiars #16 by hand.



Some pictures of the car during the process - white paint does reflect!

imported_Dave KG
08-27-2006, 01:01 PM
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/4599/eduring1nl1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/6858/eduring2po6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8240/eduring3gs9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/6421/eduring4hz3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



The glass was polished using Autoglym Glass Polish, the wheels waxed with OCW and the tyres treated to Meguiars Endurance Gel.



We then finally went round the car with a spritz of Meguiars Last Touch and wipe clear to remove any small finger prints or smudges or dust. With the car ready, we rolled it out into the sun to evaluate the finish:



http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/1544/fcompsun1au2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8930/fcompsun2ol2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



The onwer was delighted with the finish. So we parked the car up and took the final photographs:



http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/552/gcomp1zp5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/5584/gcomp2gs0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

imported_Dave KG
08-27-2006, 01:03 PM
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/8274/gcomp3jg8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/4250/gcomp4mj5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/9799/gcomp5oe5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/3995/gcomp6bn2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/5459/gcomp7xe2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/3675/gcomp9nu1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8413/gcomp10tr8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8023/gcomp11vw7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7630/gcomp8hg6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



The white paint on this car was as expected pretty solid, but mercifully not completely rock hard to the point where multiple hits of Power Gloss on slow-cut method was needed. The owner was delighted with the finish, and even mentioned possibly taking the car to a Lotus car show now! :)

imported_Picus
08-27-2006, 01:15 PM
Nice writeup. I like your descriptions of the process and of course the car looks great. That`s a pretty sweet little Lotus too. :)

RTexasF
08-27-2006, 01:19 PM
I`ve never seen white look so deep, not to mention the age of the paint! The next round of stout is on me.

Bigpoppa3346
08-27-2006, 01:40 PM
Nice write up and great work on the detail. Very reflective and wet for a white car.

Scottwax
08-27-2006, 02:33 PM
Terrific job bringing out so much wetness and reflection in white! :bow



I too have found that #80 and #16 on white paint is an excellent combination (assuming proper swirl removal, of course ;) ).

MITeggy17
08-27-2006, 05:07 PM
Cool car, the paint looks great again.

abbeysdad
08-27-2006, 06:28 PM
Great job, especially for white - very wet and reflective.

ShineyWhiteRex
08-27-2006, 07:33 PM
Wonderful looking paint. Gives me hope for my white car, which has quite a few of those deep scratches I need to get ride of as well. Can you give a link or elaborate on this slow-cut technique? I searched but couldn`t find any info on it. Thanks alot and great job!

lp2137
08-27-2006, 08:29 PM
That`s really relfective white paint especially for such a older car. Great job. :2thumbs:

awahl63
08-27-2006, 08:53 PM
Nice job on a cool car

gmblack3
08-27-2006, 10:58 PM
Dave, Excellent work! Thanks for sharing.

imported_Dave KG
08-28-2006, 04:56 PM
Wonderful looking paint. Gives me hope for my white car, which has quite a few of those deep scratches I need to get ride of as well. Can you give a link or elaborate on this slow-cut technique? I searched but couldn`t find any info on it. Thanks alot and great job!



Hi mate,



The slow-cut technique is a method I use to get the best from Menzerna standard polishes by PC. The abbrtassives are very brittle in these, and under pressue shatter before getting a chance to break down properly so you don`t get the full effect of the product... Here`s a rundown of the slow-cut technique for you:



This is my methods which are for the use of the Menzerna polishes - Intensive Polish and Power Gloss Compound, which use milled aluminium as the abbrassive. This is fragile, and breaks down under applied pressure. So, by applying no pressure to the PC head you allow the abbrassives to break down naturally during the cutting process rather than shattering them with weight so yo get better cutting performance from the polish.



For this technique you will need:



> PC7424 DA Polisher (or equiv)

> 4/6" Cutting Pads

> Water or QD spray

> Plenty of patience!



Method



1.

Apply a spray of water to the pad to wet it, and then apply some polish (PGC or IP depending on swirl severity) to the pad.



2.

Work on a very small area at a time - I would go for roughly 1` square, nothing more. Dab the machine around this area to apply the polish.



3.

Turn the PC on at speed 3. Support the weight of the machine - I tend to hold it with the handly on for this method, one hand underneth the back of the PC to hold it up and the other on the handle to guide direction without applying weight to the machine. Any hold is good though, so long as there is no weight over the head of the PC - try to support the machine`s weight. Move the PC slowly across the area in overlapping strokes, at a speed of around 1/2" per second - very slowly. You should get around five, six passes before the polish starts to go clear and look like its drying and ready to buff off...



4.

Rather than buff off the residue, I spray the pad with some more water and repeat the above step. Speed 3, no weight, very slow passes. The polish hazes up again and you have more work time... Make more slow passes until the polish begins to go clear again.



5.

After two hits at speed 3, I then spray the pad with water and move onto speed 5, again no weight and no pressure and make slow passes by moving the PC at about 1/2" per second.



6.

Finally, spray the pad with water again, and move to speed 6 and this time apply pressure to the PC for a final single pass over the area at about 1" per second. The polish will likely be pretty clear after this stage, so buff off the residue. If you examine the pad, I found that it actually looked quite clean after this, very little white polish left there.



7.

If you`ve used PGC, you will induce micromarring with this method, but this can be easily removed using IP and either the fast or slow-cut technqiues.





* I am generally quite generous with the amount of product applied here, using a little more than I woud normally for the fast-cut method but being sure to work the polish in with the above method.



** This is my own personal mehtod for this technique which I find suits me well, it differs in a few ways from Steve`s method I belive but the ideas are all the same. You may well feel more comfortable making more passes at speed 3, and the final pass at speed 5 for example - a little bit or trial of the method and you will find something that suits you perfectly. I have presented my method as a general guide of the method rather than hard and fast technique.



Hope that helps a bit.

Wax_on_Wax_Off
08-27-2007, 12:51 PM
wow great job..

The reflection on this white car is unbelievable..!!



I am impressed with how Menzerna Power Gloss & Intensive Polish combo take take out the scratches.



I do however been wondering why I can`t remove all the scratches using SFX1 (with DAS Swirlbuster pad), and SFX2. Do I need more cutting power ? Should I go for Menzerna





Regardz,