Im afaraid of scratching the paint... help

[victimizati0n]

Hey, heres all of the stuff I plan on using:



Meg. Gold class carwash

Mothers clay bar

Meg. ColorX

Meg. NXT tech wax



From what I have heard, this will make my car shine really nice, but im still afaraid of putting scratches in the paint. Can I get any tips on how not to scratch it?



I heard with polish I need to go back and fourth, instead of in circles, right??



Thanks

[imported_steveo3002]

should be fine, just keep everything perfectly clean



stuff like never put your wash mitt on floor etc



then use a clean waffle weave to dry and a new megs foam applicator with the color x and clean mf towels to remove

[D3mon]

I share your concerns about undue scratching. Here`s how I do it:



1. Do all your washing/claying/buffing motions in straight lines, following the direction of airflow over the car (front to back)



2. Use lambswool or deep pile MF wash mitt. If you drop it on the floor - Don`t re-apply it to the car. I like to use one side very lightly first, to remove any loose dirt, then flip the mitt and go in for a firm final wash with the clean side. Thouroughly rinse both sides of the mitt with the hose (or second clear water bucket) and repeat.



3. Rinse car thoroughly after the wash with no-nozzle on the hoze (free flowing water.) The water will `sheet` off the paint and drying is so much quicker/easier.



4. Dry with a clean waffle-weave style drying MF, To do the horizontal panels, lay it on the surface and drag it slowly toward you. For vertical panels, wipe carefully, applying as little pressure to the paint surface as possible. Try to keep the `bound` edges of the cloth off the paint surface.



3. Divide your clay bar into at least two pieces (more if its a big bar). Drop a piece on the floor and its `dead` - get a fresh piece before continuing. Use your already slighly damp drying MF to carefully remove excess clay lube.



5. As suggested above, use a nice clean foam applicator to apply your ColorX.



6. Apply your wax a panel at a time, then buff away the residue with a clean, short-pile MF before it completely dries. I use P21s wax and find that quite vigorous buffing gives nice results (hence the importance of a clean and grit-fee buffing MF.



If I got something wrong here, somebody will pull me up.



HTH

[-Lebowski-]

Use the two bucket method and rinse every panel. You really do not have much to worry about, as long as the surface is clean and you use plenty of lube while claying what you are doing is quite simple.



IMO there are better products than color X and NXT. If you already have them so be it, if not look into the Mothers FX line for OTC (over the counter) products as they provide a superior shine and longevity IMO.



As far as polishing yes back and forth is the preferred method by hand. For surfaces horizontal to the ground go bumper to bumper in overlapping motions. For vertical surfaces go ground to roof.



If you are interested in removing defects by hand please review this article:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7011

[Ed Fisher]

Rinse your mitt each time you touch the car with it. Use two buckets and ultra clean towels (at leaast three or four) to dry with some QD and you`re all fine...

[Accumulator]

victimizati0n-Welcome to Autopia!



IMO 99% of marring/scratches happens during the wash, so I`d concentrate on that. Note the basic problem: you`re trying to get potentially abrasive dirt off the paint. If you press said dirt against the paint and then move it, it`ll scratch. You need to dislodge the dirt and get it off the paint without pressing on it.



Make sure your mitt won`t mar in and of itself, some synthetic mitts are murder on automotive paint, even ones from big-name manufacturers. I`d test it (wet with shampoo mix) on the data side of a CD. Ditto for your drying materials.



Some basics (and there are some threads on how to do a *not-so-basic* wash that might be worth looking up): Don`t try to wash an entire panel without cleaning out the mitt; if you pick up some abrasive dirt while cleaning the first inch, and then move the mitt another 11 inches, you`ll get an 11" long scratch.



Try filling the mitt with shampoo mix by holding it underwater with the cuff pointed up. Hold it shut at the cuff and gently whisk it against the paint in short strokes while the shampoo seeps out if it.



Short strokes: note that a short scratch won`t show as badly as a long one. Don`t make big swipes across a panel (the 1 inch + 11 inch thing mentined above).



Straight lines vs. circles: Shouldn`t matter if you don`t cause scratches inthe first place. Straight lines just don`t show as readily as circular/elliptical ones due to the single viewing angle, but it`s not like something will scratch if moved in one direction but won`t scratch if moved in another direction.



I tear my clay into small pieces and only knead/reuse them a little before getting out a new one. Rememer that if clay picks up something abrasive it turns into sandpaper.

[victimizati0n]

Thanks for the tips.



Im acually trying to detail an older car (1985) that has some swirles from getting waxed, and I dont want to make it any worse.



Thanks :D