best oxidation removal technique???

[Envious Eric]

using the following products that I already have....what would you guys recommend to remove light oxidation from a 83 mercedes 300D, or something like that



I have only a PC, so no rotary input

meguiars burgandy, yellow pads

megs 83 and 80

menzerna IP and FPII



I do not have a dedicated compound, should I get one? which one?

should I use different pads, which ones?



I was thinking about just hitting it with a wash, clay, IP/83, FPII/80, nxt combo....sufficient enough you think? what products would you recommend I get if not?

[Evenflow]

I hear AIO does one of the best jobs in taking care of oxidation.



You may want to look into that.

[RCBuddha]

The old AIO did a fantastic job of removing oxidation for me. That was the pre-voc version though.



83, 80, IP, FP, all work well; I`ve used each on oxidized vehicles with great success. Just be ready to get a few polishing pads, I caked up at least 5 on a 72 VW Super Beetle that was oxidized. Another product to try might be Meguiars #66, I JUST used some to clean up a lightly oxidized work van, and it came out pretty nice. Good luck!

[Djmigs]

you might wanna try meguiars deep crystal paint cleaner aka DC #1 for oxidize paint depend how oxidize you may need a few pads....

[imported_steveo3002]

id sugest trying aio

[areaseven]

Try Meguiar`s ColorX. If it can restore this 1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12392), tackling an `83 Benz shouldn`t be a problem. And it`s only $7.99.

[imported_MCA]

Oxidation/Dead paint is hell on applicators, pads and clay - get rid of it first before you do anything else. I would use either ColorX or AIO to first remove the oxidation/dead paint. Use with a terry cloth so you save the pads for #83/#80/IP/FPII. Here is what I would do (of course use Autopian techniques):



1) Wash Car

2) Remove Oxidation/Dead Paint with ColorX or AIO via 100% terry cloth - dead paint will come off fast and WILL gunk up your cloth...this is normal (hence the reason not to waste your pads).

3) Clay - The oxidation-free surface of your car will allow your clay to glide better to remove paint contaminants.

4) Polish w/ choice products - This is where you would use your pads.

5) LSP of your choice



Hope this helps,

MCA

[03k20a2]

Oxidation/Dead paint is hell on applicators, pads and clay - get rid of it first before you do anything else. I would use either ColorX or AIO to first remove the oxidation/dead paint. Use with a terry cloth so you save the pads for #83/#80/IP/FPII. Here is what I would do (of course use Autopian techniques):



1) Wash Car

2) Remove Oxidation/Dead Paint with ColorX or AIO via 100% terry cloth - dead paint will come off fast and WILL gunk up your cloth...this is normal (hence the reason not to waste your pads).

3) Clay - The oxidation-free surface of your car will allow your clay to glide better to remove paint contaminants.

4) Polish w/ choice products - This is where you would use your pads.

5) LSP of your choice



Hope this helps,

MCA

thats what i would do and have done, AIO on a terry cloth towel/applicator will really save you a lot of time and pads

[imported_BadSL65AMG]

Oxidation/Dead paint is hell on applicators, pads and clay - get rid of it first before you do anything else. I would use either ColorX or AIO to first remove the oxidation/dead paint. Use with a terry cloth so you save the pads for #83/#80/IP/FPII. Here is what I would do (of course use Autopian techniques):



1) Wash Car

2) Remove Oxidation/Dead Paint with ColorX or AIO via 100% terry cloth - dead paint will come off fast and WILL gunk up your cloth...this is normal (hence the reason not to waste your pads).

3) Clay - The oxidation-free surface of your car will allow your clay to glide better to remove paint contaminants.

4) Polish w/ choice products - This is where you would use your pads.

5) LSP of your choice



Hope this helps,

MCA



Correct me if I`m wrong, AIO being a sealant. You are sealing the paint, then attempting to remove contaminants that were sealed in by the AIO with a clay bar. Then removing the AIO when you polish. I would think if you plan on going the AIO route, just add SG or a wax of your choice to top it off and you`re good to go.

[RCBuddha]

After some thought, I`d just use 83 or IP to clean up the oxidation, and then use 80 or FP to give the paint a glossy finish. I`d rather gum up a few pads, then to spend a few hours with a terry rag, hand scrubbing the oxidation off, IMHO.

[imported_MCA]

Correct me if I`m wrong, AIO being a sealant. You are sealing the paint, then attempting to remove contaminants that were sealed in by the AIO with a clay bar. Then removing the AIO when you polish. I would think if you plan on going the AIO route, just add SG or a wax of your choice to top it off and you`re good to go.



Using a clay bar that is not of the "fine" variety should easily remove contaminants despite the AIO layer sitting on top of paint. The AIO layer might actually make it easier to clay since it increases surface slickness - This second point is pure speculation though.






After some thought, I`d just use 83 or IP to clean up the oxidation, and then use 80 or FP to give the paint a glossy finish. I`d rather gum up a few pads, then to spend a few hours with a terry rag, hand scrubbing the oxidation off, IMHO.



AIO and ColorX chemically dissolves the dead paint as oppose to abrasively removing it. I do agree with you though that removing via PC is a lot better and faster. If all options were available, I would use a PC, pad, and ColorX/AIO.

[Mr.Concours]

I would go with AIO and have used it to good effect on badly faded red SS paint.

[steck]

You`re #83 is best suited for oxidation,,, has some serious chem cleaners in it,, as well as abrasives.