adams techniques

[joyriide1113]

ok well ive recently became more and more interested in adams polishes due to their good rep from the members. i viewed all of his instructional videos and boy was i CAUGHT OFF GAURD!.

when claning tires and rims he just simple green for everything. i havent used simple green much to give it a bad name but isnt simple green a no-no on rims, certian rims, ect...

also. in his video he mixes his scratch removal product with his revive polish to eliminate steps. does that work any?

and when it came to cleaning microfibers he says that putting them in boiling water when heavily soiled cleans them and brings them back to normal...

[wifehatescar]

There is no one best way to do anything, you just have to take in what everyone has to say and create your own process of doing things.
I don`t do alot of things Adam does on his video, I cannot say I am right and he is wrong though. If there as only one way to do something there would be nothing to discuss ;)

[joyriide1113]

of course, but that wasnt an answer. it was answering it all with one big general statement. of course diff. techniques work. no one is taking that away from him... but to be more specific im looking for experience form other people with direct answers. like mixing the polishes. boiling microfibers, simple green safe?. ect... not to brush off u`re post, and im sorry if it seems that way, but u gave me such a general and un useful answer to the specific questions i asked...

[probegt]

I have never experience any problems with SG on rims, paint, motor, and carpet. The only problem I have had with it is the smell. I suppose mixing the scratch remover would make the revive polish to a cleaner/polish with a little abrasive to help in removing some light scratches and marring. There was a thread about the MF thing a while back so you might want to do a search. I would say just try it with an old or tired MF and see how it turns out.

[wifehatescar]

of course, but that wasnt an answer. it was answering it all with one big general statement. of course diff. techniques work. no one is taking that away from him... but to be more specific im looking for experience form other people with direct answers. like mixing the polishes. boiling microfibers, simple green safe?. ect... not to brush off u`re post, and im sorry if it seems that way, but u gave me such a general and un useful answer to the specific questions i asked...
Well, I can give you my opinion then if it will help...
I would never use SG on leather and rims, I would use leather cleaner and wheel cleaner if needed. Personally, I do not like the idea of mixing your own swirl remover either. I have never felt the need to boil mf`s (wife wouldn`t allow it anyway:lol), vinegar in the wash works for me, all my mf are as good as new and some are a year old.

Adam has alot more detailing experience than myself though so maybe I`m missing out on some great techniques? :dunno :lol

[joyriide1113]

yea! lol.. i was wondering how i would get to bypass the mom and boil the microfibers... when everyone was mixing waxes together and i used one of her new stainless steal fancy pots, she got me back and used my invisible glass and microfibers to clean the kitchen countertops...


reminds me::lemme go check what shes doing

[Woob]

Adam`s products might have a different application style, so adjust how you need.

-I admit I don`t agree on the SG, if you do use it, don`t leave it on for awhile or repeatedly at high concentrations. You can use other products (more incentive to buy yay! :D)
-I have used SO/Revive and have received NO troubles at all. Whenever needed, I add more SO for bigger scratches and it works more abrasivesly. (Cleans very well also)
-For boiling microfibers, its a new technique I`ve read so I will definitely try it. There is no doubt that people sometime lose attraction from their microfibers due to clogging.

[JaredPointer]

As I have stated before, I have used Simple Green for a long time and in many different situations with no problems....ever..... So I would assume it`s a relatively safe product to use.

Adam and Nick both have suggested mixing Scratch Out and Revive numerous times. I have not tried it (because I have other swirl removers at the moment), but I don`t see how it could cause a problem either.

[Nickc0844]

Joyride,

I hope that you got my email and DC thread link from all your questions to Adam`s back on the 23rd of February.

First off, let me say that a degreaser is a vital part in detailing. The ride you saw on the video had chrome rims....perfectly safe for brake dust removal and cleaning. If you have a clearcoated rim....it`s safe as well. It is when you have oxidation on your rims (from lack of cleaning and age) that a degreaser might not be the safest option. The only time I wouldn`t use a degreaser, like Simple Green, on rims is like on my non-coated ALUMINUM rims on my Vette and V-ROD. In case you don`t know, they will spot and look hazy if you do. Not to worry, a simple metal polish brings back all the luster.

As for the leather, the Simple Green used was diluted and the leather had a protective coating on them (as most do since the early 90`s). Some like to use it, others don`t. Keep in mind that whenever you use a leather cleaner, you do need to use a conditioner afterwards as to remoisturize. The car had not been detailed since it was bought, so after a few years of not cleaning your leather, it will be dingy. After you use a heavier cleaner, you can then use our Leather Conditioner for maintenance, as it has mild cleaners into it.

As for engine cleaning, if you have a better method without using a degreaser of some sort, I`d love to hear it.

[Nickc0844]

Here is the DC Link I forwarded to Joyride last week. It explains how Revive and Scratch Out (SO) are meant to be used. Keep in mind, this doesn`t mean that all your polishes in your garage can be mixed together. We specifically designed this duo to work in conjunction with each other to give the user OPTIONS of polishing abilities. However, no matter how strong you use SO, it`s always going to be less abrasive than toothpaste.

By the way, who makes the best abrasives for polishes?? Hint: based out of Germany....starts with an M... That is where we get our raw material abrasive from to formulate SO.

"To clean the paint and remove swirls, I use Revive and Scratch Out. Both products are easy to use, however, none will replace missing paint or disintegrating clearcoat. Revive is a pure polish with no abrasives; more of a paint cleaner, but has the ability to remove mild swirling. This stuff will not dust up at all when using, and often, one swipe will remove it. I would suggest polishing out the entire car before removing, or if it is extremely hot out, every other panel...and yes, you can do this in the full sun!

One can easily use both products by hand, but work even better with a Dual Action Polisher (PC) or Rotary. It has been in my experience that one can remove about 60-80% of swirls by hand, and 95-100% by machine.

Scratch and Swirl Remover is an Aluminum Oxide as it`s abrasive, however, it`s only abrasive as toothpaste. This is the finest abrasive available in the detailing industry. The U.S. does supply Alumium Oxide, however, it is inferior to the abrasive "know it alls" in Germany....it`s also twice as expensive. We`ve tried our formulation with both, and found it is well worth the money spent to have this material imported from Europe. It is a "diminishing abrasive", so the particals will start out larger, and as one works it in, they become smaller and polish out much better.

For specific scratches, you can use S&SR by hand a terry applicator. Put a small amount on there and swipe 20-30x all over the segregated scratch. Leave the residue on the car, and go over it directly with Revive. The Revive compliments S&SR and you will achieve better results. A scratch has sharp edges on either side and light refracts off those edges; S&SR is designed to dullen the edges of the scratch and make it less visible.

When the entire car has mild to medium swirls into it, I prefer using the PC and a polishing pad with S&SR and Revive combo. For moderate swirls, do 70% Scratch and Swirl Remover and 30% Revive dabs on your pad. Spread on the panel, and then go to town. From there, do a final polish of straight Revive for outstanding results. For general Swirl Removal, try 50/50 Revive and Scratch Out. Don’t be afraid to polish at speeds of 5 and 6; you’ll be letting the product work sufficiently, and they are not abrasive enough to do ANY damage. Many times one will not have to follow up with a final polish after doing 50/50.

While the Adam’s line does not have harsh abrasives meant for moderate/heavy paint correction, if these are needed, I would suggest the Poorboy’s Super Swirl Remover 3 or 2.5, then stepping down to a final polish like Revive. This combo has been a very successful one for me in the past.

Hope this cleared some things up for you."

[Nickc0844]

To reiterate:

That review above was based upon an older generation of Revive. With the reformulation of Revive in the middle of last year (more shine, better lubrication for PC`s), for typical swirl removal, I go about 60% Revive/40% Scratch Out. From there, it`s personal preference on if you want to do a step of 100% Revive.

Keep in mind that Revive/Scatch Out works well by hand, but as with most products, better results can be achieved by using a PC and even better by Rotary. Revive/Scratch Out works even better when using the rotary because the heat helps break everything down quicker for better polishing results.

If I need something more abrasive, I`ll start with something else with more capacity to cut and then step down to the Revive/SO combo or straight Revive.

Hope this helps to clairify those two products.

[TDMAN]

I started using Simple Green and I have never had any problems. I even kind of like the smell. The only reason I have used/bought other APC`s is claims that they are better (verdict no in yet) and because my wife doesn`t like the smell of it. So when I do her car, I use something else. When I`m finished though, I always slick it up/shine it up with Adam`s VRT.

[G35stilez]

I believe Adam`s main target market is more of the weekend enthusiast compared to most of us as pros/weekend warriors/obsessors.

For what he is targeting I thought he did a fine job. That`s definately much better info than you can get off the back of a bottle.

[Nickc0844]

and when it came to cleaning microfibers he says that putting them in boiling water when heavily soiled cleans them and brings them back to normal...

Yes and no. Moreso what is meant and said is that when you MF`s seem not to pick up product as well when buffing, it typically means that the pores fibers are clogged. It could be reminants of fabric softener or a variety of situations.

By all means, wash your MF`s in the washing machine to start...that typically "brings them back to normal". The vinegar rinse works well, but even then, it cannot handle everything. The boiling tip is like a last resort to "Revive" your towels.

Check in the Adam`s Polishes forum for more readings on that. We`ve gotten this information straight from various manfacturers (not distributors) over in Asia.

[joyriide1113]

last night i tried it. i got a soiled plush towel that i stopped using on the paint because its light green and had black stains from when i used it on a dirty wheel with spray and wipe... i was planning to put it only for 10 minutes in boiling water but began to make myself a sandwich to eat and totally forgot bout the towel. i wrung it out, then i air dried it in the dryer. to my eyes the towel looks normal. it feels new. still has the stains, but feels softer like when i got it...