Chose some products to for first real detail... please critique.

[2000maxima]

Hi everybody, I just joined, and i`m looking for some advice!



I`ve polished and waxed before, even a bit of clay bar-ing... but never really gone too over the top with it. I`ve only used some Griot`s stuff (my dad has a ton of it lying around), Collinite and Meg`s.



I`ve been scanning through the book and also the forums to try and figure out what I should be using. My spring break is next week, so I`m hoping I can really make the car look its best.



Right now I have a PC on the way with some Lake Country pads ((link) (http://www.topoftheline.com/porcabpolpac.html).



As for product/process, this is what I think I`ll be ordering so far:



First, clean the car and remove all conaminants (Dawn, clay bar, for which i`ll probably just get the meg`s kit)



Second, polish. (SSR2.5/SSR2/SSR1) I would only use the SSR2.5/SSR2 in certain places where there are some deeper scratches and blemishes.



Here`s where I become slightly confused... do I still want/need to use a product like AIO here? After polishing I plan on adding a glaze (Vanilla Moose), sealant (any recommendations?), and wax (Most likely Collinite 845).



Also, what pads would be recommend for use with these guys and the PC? I`ll probably be ordering more.



I`m sorry if this is kind of a repeat thread, I`m just a bit confused because I feel as though alot of the terms are thrown around liberally, and I`m trying to figure out where some of the steps fit into the overall process.



For your reference, I drive a 2000 Maxima SE, Grey Lustre.



Thanks again,

Steve

[White95Max]

:welcome to Autopia Steve. :wavey



You don`t need to use AIO if you`re going to polish and then use VM afterward. Any paint cleaning will be accomplished by those two steps. Sealant recommendations are all opinions, so you really have to decide that for yourself. If you`re just getting into detailing, FourStar UPP and Wolfgang`s sealant are extremely easy to use, and leave the finish very slick. Those would be my choices for you.



You don`t need to use Dawn. The clay and polish will remove anything on the paint already. Dawn dries out the rubber components of the car, and honestly does a pretty crappy job of removing waxes/sealants anyway.



If you`re ordering more pads, grab some from http://www.exceldetail.com . Use a green or yellow pad with the SSR2.5, a blue or green with the SSR2, and a blue with the SSR1. I don`t like to apply LSPs (sealants/waxes) with the PC, but if you do, you`ll use a gray pad.

[2000maxima]

thanks!



also, is it a bad idea to buff off with a terry towel? should i buff off by hand or can I use the PC?

[Accumulator]

2000Maxima- Welcome to Autopia!



I would *not* use a terrycloth towel for buffing (or even for drying), too likely that it`ll mar the paint. Get some good MFs for buffing off the polishes, VM, and wax and buff it off by hand. You could try some MF bonnets on the PC, but only for buffing off the VM and wax. I`d just do it by hand this time.



FWIW, some of your Dad`s Griot`s stuff might be just fine. Not like it`s bad stuff or anything like that.



I`d consider the sealant optional, especially if you`re planning to use VM and 845. I`d just use the VM then 845 myself. Concentrate on prepping the finish with your polishes instead (that`s the hard part, and the part that really determines how everything`s gonna look).

[2000maxima]

Again.. thank you very much... if I don`t use a sealant, will the paint be protected as well? How durable/long lasting would the VM/845 combo be is my real question.

[White95Max]

845 is a very durable wax, although the durability might be slightly less than if you used AIO under it instead of VM.



845 is more durable than many sealants.

[Accumulator]

Yeah, I`ve had plenty of cars hold up just fine for many years with only a carnauba (instead of a sealant). Even when our old Volvo was parked outside 24/7/52 it did fine with Collinite.



Many people seem to have the notion (they probably get the idea from sealant vendors ;) ) that only a sealant will offer decent protection, but it just isn`t so.

[DM101]

If shine is wahat your after use your polish then VM, RMG, and Pinnicle Sourveran. Last around 6 weeks then PS again. If durability is what your after go the AIO route.

[2000maxima]

Well, I`d love shine... but durability is also a must (I`m a college student, so my car is outside nearly all the time, and I only get to detail it at home every 2-3 months).



So then how long should I expect the car to be protected with the combo I have above? If I`m using AIO, what should I put on top of it? (I`m assuming just polish-> AIO -> sealant/wax?)

[White95Max]

Yes, polish, then apply AIO and a sealant/wax. I`d conservatively say AIO/845 would last at least 3 months easily.

[Accumulator]

Nobody can really predict how long a given combo will last for somebody else.



Given the difficulties of getting (let alone maintaining) a finish that`s good enough for a sealant to really look great, I still think the Collinite wax approach is the way to go. Waxes are far more forgiving of imperfections than sealants are.



I easily got through a whole (Ohio) winter with Collinite, outside 24/7. It oughta last 2-3 months easy. I sometimes found the Collinite to be more "self cleaning" in the rain than the KSG on the minivan.



Heh heh, BTW, I`m a retired college teacher who thinks students usually have better things to do than detail their cars ;) So I *am* taking durabililty into consideration.

[Scottwax]

VM/845 has held up very well for me, plus it looks terrific. :)

[2000maxima]

Alright! thanks guys, it`s good to hear the VM/845 will work, especially considering I think I have a half bottle of 845 at home. Now to order the SSR, VM, some more MF and maybe a bottle of QEW. I`ll try and post some results next week after I`m done.