Autoeng
02-10-2006, 03:32 PM
I just finished an install of a Colibri` aftermarket power window kit. A great addition to my 1995 HB that makes the hours I spend in it that much more user friendly. This install was doen on my daily driver 1995 Nissan Hardbody pickup. Almost 200K miles and still going strong. In it 3 hours a day for 600 miles a week.
1- Colibri`s Master aftermarket window power kit - $65 (included shipping) purchased on Ebay.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_kit.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/kit.jpg)
1- 30 amp relay - $25 (included shipping) Purchased at www.A1electric.com (http://www.A1electric.com) (which also sells the kits but much more expensive than they can be had on Ebay but Ebay sellers don`t offer a warranty). Part number RELAY1. Next time I would make my own from parts purchased at my local autoparts store. Would cost about $15.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_relay1.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/relay1.jpg)
1- Add-A-Circuit - $15 purchased at my local Napa made by LittelFuse part number FHA200BP. A super easy way to provide the on ignition power to trip the relay.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_fuse.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/fuse.jpg)
– Lots of wire ties.
- Time - 7 hours. It takes a lot of time to route the wires especially on the passenger side as the blower and blower housing must be removed to gain access to the door jamb grommet.
– Skill level required – Moderate. This is a time consuming install and patience is a must.
– Tools – Drill, 7/64†bit, 7/16†bit, putty knife, electrical pliers, knife, socket wrench, 10mm and 12mm sockets, straight and Phillips screwdrivers.
Step 1 – Remove the key from the ignition so you don’t have to listen to that dinging during the whole install and turn off your interior light. Yeah, I know you want to listen to the stereo during the install but it will take so long to do this you will run down the battery. Start with the passenger side that way if you run out of time you won`t have the harness laying in the driver`s side floor board. Remove the glove box by opening it and pushing the plugs located in the rear top of the box into the box. This will allow the box to open all the way to access the two screws holding it to the dash. (sorry, no pic of this).
Step 2 - Remove the panel behind the glove box by removing the six screws that hold it in place (sorry, no pic of this).
Step 3 - Remove the three screws that hold the blower in place. Remove the blower, disconnecting the wire harness and the drain hose.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_blwrclose.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/blwrclose.jpg)
Step 4 – Remove the lower side kick panel by removing the screw. The panel is held on with a push clip at the top that you cannot see. Pry the panel away so that you can see behind it, locate the clip and with a screw driver push on it to release it (sorry, no pic or this).
Step 5 – Remove the two nuts (top) and one bolt (bottom) that hold the blower housing in place and remove it. This is a tight fit but with a little pressure on the outside edge of the dash it will come out (sorry, no pic of this). In the pic of the blower removal you can see the seal that is between the blower housing and the coil box. This is just a face fit to the blower box so you just have to slide it past this seal. Try not to damage the seal. Crap, it won’t come out of the truck all the way because of this wire thing that controls the door in it! Pop the wire tie that holds it to the vent tunnel at the top of the dash so you can get it out of your way laying it in the center of the cabin.
Step 6 – Time to remove the door panel. Remove the two screws that hold on the armrest.
Step 7 – Remove the door lock puller by unscrewing it.
Step 8 – Remove the window crank by using a thin, flat object like a putty or butter knife. Make sure the window is up! Insert the tool in between the crank and panel and look for the retaining clip that holds it on. Locate the open side of the clip and push on it to pop it off. Remove the window crank (won’t need these anymore!).
Step 9 – Using a thin, flat object like a putty or butter knife remove the door handle surround. Start at the bottom and insert the tool between the handle and the surround and pry downward and away from the door. Once loose at the bottom just lift off.
Step 10 – Using a thin, flat object like a putty or butter knife pry the panel away from the door slightly at the bottom rear corner. You can use this object to pop out the Christmas tree clips but it is better if you use something that will go on both sides of the clip so as not to tear it out of the panel hole. They make a tool especially for this that you can buy at your local auto parts store or a pair of long needle nose pliers will do in a pinch but I find that electrical pliers work just as well. Whatever you use make sure it is right up against the edge of the clip. Work your way up the rear of the panel to the top and then along the bottom to the front. To get at the ones running up the front of the door work from the bottom. There is also a row of clips along the top edge of the panel that you have to get at from the bottom. No matter how careful you are some of these will break so stop at your local autoparts store and pic up a package for spares. Yeah, they were expensive, weren’t they. Now is also a great time to upgrade those front door speakers and get rid of those ugly speaker covers. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_xmastree.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/xmastree.jpg)
Step 11 – Now you can gain access to the door jamb grommet to pass the wire from the cabin into the door. It is almost impossible to pass the wires through the same hole as the other ones go through so it is easiest just to cut a small slit in the grommet to pass the window wires through. Pass the window wires through the slit and pull out enough wire to get to the rear of the door. Make sure that the wire cover is in position, held on place by the grommet with the rest available for the routing to the door grommet.
Step 12 – You must remove the door grommet so that you can pull enough wire through so that you can get the length right that will remain in the door jamb. Make a slit in the grommet and pass the wire through pulling the excess until it matches the factory wire routing in the jamb. Wire tie the two wires together. Feed the wire into the door and reinstall the grommet.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_doorjamb.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/doorjamb.jpg)
Step 13 – Pull the motor power wires out of the rear bottom access hole of the door. Now you understand why the wire connector bodies were not preinstalled onto the wires. There would have been no way to pass them through the door jamb grommets. Locate the switch wires inside of the door and feed them out through the hole in the bottom middle of the door. Install the connector body to the wire harness matching the wires from the switch harness. Connect the main wire harness to the switch wire harness and feed it back into the door. Run the wire up and pull the switch wires out of the hole directly under the window crank.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_wireconn.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/wireconn.jpg)
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_doorwire.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/doorwire.jpg)
Step 14 – Install the crank adapter and cog to the window crank rod making sure to line up the blank ribbed area of the adapter and cog. Install the screw so that the adapter and cog won’t come apart and are tightly fitted together. (See cog pic step 17)
Step 15 – Press fit the cog end (metal side out) of the window motor assembly to the crank and rotate the motor into position of the large opening at the rear of the door. Determine where you need to attach the mounting brackets to the motor for a positive attachment. Mark the holes on the motor you need to attach the mounting brackets to. Remove the motor assembly and attach the mounting brackets. Put the motor back into position and mark the holes to mount the assembly to the door. Remove the assembly and drill 7/64†holes. Insert the grommets and bushings into the mounting brackets and screw to door.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_motor.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/motor.jpg)
Step 16 – Plug the harness into the motor.
Step 17 – If you need to, remove the cog end of the motor assembly and reinstall for best routing. Determine where you need to attach the mounting brackets to the cog end for a positive attachment. Mark the holes on the cog end you need to attach the mounting brackets to. Remove the cog end and attach the mounting brackets. Put the end into position and mark the holes to mount it to the door. Remove the cog end and drill 7/64†holes. Insert the grommets and bushings into the mounting brackets reinstall cog end and screw to door. Install snap ring on window crank adapter.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_cog.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/cog.jpg)
Continued here... http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67198
1- Colibri`s Master aftermarket window power kit - $65 (included shipping) purchased on Ebay.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_kit.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/kit.jpg)
1- 30 amp relay - $25 (included shipping) Purchased at www.A1electric.com (http://www.A1electric.com) (which also sells the kits but much more expensive than they can be had on Ebay but Ebay sellers don`t offer a warranty). Part number RELAY1. Next time I would make my own from parts purchased at my local autoparts store. Would cost about $15.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_relay1.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/relay1.jpg)
1- Add-A-Circuit - $15 purchased at my local Napa made by LittelFuse part number FHA200BP. A super easy way to provide the on ignition power to trip the relay.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_fuse.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/fuse.jpg)
– Lots of wire ties.
- Time - 7 hours. It takes a lot of time to route the wires especially on the passenger side as the blower and blower housing must be removed to gain access to the door jamb grommet.
– Skill level required – Moderate. This is a time consuming install and patience is a must.
– Tools – Drill, 7/64†bit, 7/16†bit, putty knife, electrical pliers, knife, socket wrench, 10mm and 12mm sockets, straight and Phillips screwdrivers.
Step 1 – Remove the key from the ignition so you don’t have to listen to that dinging during the whole install and turn off your interior light. Yeah, I know you want to listen to the stereo during the install but it will take so long to do this you will run down the battery. Start with the passenger side that way if you run out of time you won`t have the harness laying in the driver`s side floor board. Remove the glove box by opening it and pushing the plugs located in the rear top of the box into the box. This will allow the box to open all the way to access the two screws holding it to the dash. (sorry, no pic of this).
Step 2 - Remove the panel behind the glove box by removing the six screws that hold it in place (sorry, no pic of this).
Step 3 - Remove the three screws that hold the blower in place. Remove the blower, disconnecting the wire harness and the drain hose.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_blwrclose.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/blwrclose.jpg)
Step 4 – Remove the lower side kick panel by removing the screw. The panel is held on with a push clip at the top that you cannot see. Pry the panel away so that you can see behind it, locate the clip and with a screw driver push on it to release it (sorry, no pic or this).
Step 5 – Remove the two nuts (top) and one bolt (bottom) that hold the blower housing in place and remove it. This is a tight fit but with a little pressure on the outside edge of the dash it will come out (sorry, no pic of this). In the pic of the blower removal you can see the seal that is between the blower housing and the coil box. This is just a face fit to the blower box so you just have to slide it past this seal. Try not to damage the seal. Crap, it won’t come out of the truck all the way because of this wire thing that controls the door in it! Pop the wire tie that holds it to the vent tunnel at the top of the dash so you can get it out of your way laying it in the center of the cabin.
Step 6 – Time to remove the door panel. Remove the two screws that hold on the armrest.
Step 7 – Remove the door lock puller by unscrewing it.
Step 8 – Remove the window crank by using a thin, flat object like a putty or butter knife. Make sure the window is up! Insert the tool in between the crank and panel and look for the retaining clip that holds it on. Locate the open side of the clip and push on it to pop it off. Remove the window crank (won’t need these anymore!).
Step 9 – Using a thin, flat object like a putty or butter knife remove the door handle surround. Start at the bottom and insert the tool between the handle and the surround and pry downward and away from the door. Once loose at the bottom just lift off.
Step 10 – Using a thin, flat object like a putty or butter knife pry the panel away from the door slightly at the bottom rear corner. You can use this object to pop out the Christmas tree clips but it is better if you use something that will go on both sides of the clip so as not to tear it out of the panel hole. They make a tool especially for this that you can buy at your local auto parts store or a pair of long needle nose pliers will do in a pinch but I find that electrical pliers work just as well. Whatever you use make sure it is right up against the edge of the clip. Work your way up the rear of the panel to the top and then along the bottom to the front. To get at the ones running up the front of the door work from the bottom. There is also a row of clips along the top edge of the panel that you have to get at from the bottom. No matter how careful you are some of these will break so stop at your local autoparts store and pic up a package for spares. Yeah, they were expensive, weren’t they. Now is also a great time to upgrade those front door speakers and get rid of those ugly speaker covers. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_xmastree.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/xmastree.jpg)
Step 11 – Now you can gain access to the door jamb grommet to pass the wire from the cabin into the door. It is almost impossible to pass the wires through the same hole as the other ones go through so it is easiest just to cut a small slit in the grommet to pass the window wires through. Pass the window wires through the slit and pull out enough wire to get to the rear of the door. Make sure that the wire cover is in position, held on place by the grommet with the rest available for the routing to the door grommet.
Step 12 – You must remove the door grommet so that you can pull enough wire through so that you can get the length right that will remain in the door jamb. Make a slit in the grommet and pass the wire through pulling the excess until it matches the factory wire routing in the jamb. Wire tie the two wires together. Feed the wire into the door and reinstall the grommet.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_doorjamb.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/doorjamb.jpg)
Step 13 – Pull the motor power wires out of the rear bottom access hole of the door. Now you understand why the wire connector bodies were not preinstalled onto the wires. There would have been no way to pass them through the door jamb grommets. Locate the switch wires inside of the door and feed them out through the hole in the bottom middle of the door. Install the connector body to the wire harness matching the wires from the switch harness. Connect the main wire harness to the switch wire harness and feed it back into the door. Run the wire up and pull the switch wires out of the hole directly under the window crank.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_wireconn.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/wireconn.jpg)
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_doorwire.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/doorwire.jpg)
Step 14 – Install the crank adapter and cog to the window crank rod making sure to line up the blank ribbed area of the adapter and cog. Install the screw so that the adapter and cog won’t come apart and are tightly fitted together. (See cog pic step 17)
Step 15 – Press fit the cog end (metal side out) of the window motor assembly to the crank and rotate the motor into position of the large opening at the rear of the door. Determine where you need to attach the mounting brackets to the motor for a positive attachment. Mark the holes on the motor you need to attach the mounting brackets to. Remove the motor assembly and attach the mounting brackets. Put the motor back into position and mark the holes to mount the assembly to the door. Remove the assembly and drill 7/64†holes. Insert the grommets and bushings into the mounting brackets and screw to door.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_motor.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/motor.jpg)
Step 16 – Plug the harness into the motor.
Step 17 – If you need to, remove the cog end of the motor assembly and reinstall for best routing. Determine where you need to attach the mounting brackets to the cog end for a positive attachment. Mark the holes on the cog end you need to attach the mounting brackets to. Remove the cog end and attach the mounting brackets. Put the end into position and mark the holes to mount it to the door. Remove the cog end and drill 7/64†holes. Insert the grommets and bushings into the mounting brackets reinstall cog end and screw to door. Install snap ring on window crank adapter.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/th_cog.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/autoeng1/pwrwndw/cog.jpg)
Continued here... http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67198