Noob with a PC and an Diamond Graphite G35

[UMG35]

Hey I an a noob and this is my first post and need some advice. I have searhed this site for a couple days now ans would like to see if what I found was correct before I order my products. I just purchased my PC in hopes of getting my Diamond Graphite (metallic dark silver) G35 looking good. I have the basics down of washing but claying but after this I am not quite sure what to do. In reference I have light swirls and want to get a wet look with the metallic poping. So here it goes:



1. Wash

2. Clay

3. Polish with SSR1 and move to SSR2.5 if necessary then back to SSR1

4. Clean with AIO

5. Seal with SG (multiple coats?) ???

6. Wax with Natty`s ???



This was my idea of what to do but I am not sure with the last 2. I have its hard to get silver/metallic dark silver to pop and want to make sure this is the best process(materials). Thanks for any help you can give.

[imported_Neothin]

that looks pretty good. You might want to think about replacing SG with UPP. Durability is a little less, but IMO UPP makes the flake in metallic paint more pronounced than SG would make it. If your planning on frequently maintaining your vehicle (aka wax every couple of weeks, wash often, etc), you may not need a sealant. The only reason I add sealants into my LSP mix is to give durability. If your contstantly keeping up on maitenance of the finish, a sealants durability isnt needed.

[UMG35]

Well I do take car of my car and wash once a week, so the sealant is not needed? Would it defeat the purpose of using UPP anyways if I do wash my car weekly or it would still would make somewhat of a difference. Sorry for the noob questions but what is "LSP" mix?

[White95Max]

LSP = Last step product/protectant. Any sealant or wax.



Where are you located? If you`re in the south or a warm climate, you`ll get better durability from a sealant than with a carnauba. But that applies mostly to dark colors, which absorb heat better.



Your process listed above is good. I also might recommend UPP over SG, but for a different reason. This is your first major process on your car, so you`ll definitely appreciate the ease of use of UPP. Even if you apply it too thick, it presents no problems. SG will make you and your arms regret putting it on too thick.



And please do make your G35 look great. I walked past a new red G35 coupe today in the bright sunlight. That was absolutely disgusting. Swirls that reminded me of my dad`s minivan. (That`s bad). I need to see a well-detailed one ASAP, to remind me how beautiful those cars should look.



and :welcome to Autopia! :wavey

[UMG35]

Well I am located in South Florida so a hot climate does apply. But besides the ease of taking the sealant off, does the UPP make the metallic pop more than SG (I have read that a couple times). Also won`t using both a sealant than a carnuba give a better look than just using one or the other. Also wether using the UPP or the SG, should I layer the sealant, layer the wax, or both?

[White95Max]

Sealants are much more easily layerable than waxes. Often, waxes are not durable enough to withstand the solvents of a subsequent coat. So one layer will dissolve the one under it.



IMO, sealants can`t make flakes/pearls pop anymore than without that sealant. I think the only thing that can make flakes/pearls "pop" is the polishing and cleaning steps. Obviously if the clear is oxidized or swirled, less light will be able to penetrate through to the flakes and reflect back to you. All an LSP can do is minimize the muting of the flakes/pearls.

[twitch]

Sealants are much more easily layerable than waxes. Often, waxes are not durable enough to withstand the solvents of a subsequent coat. So one layer will dissolve the one under it.



IMO, sealants can`t make flakes/pearls pop anymore than without that sealant. I think the only thing that can make flakes/pearls "pop" is the polishing and cleaning steps.Obviously if the clear is oxidized or swirled, less light will be able to penetrate through to the flakes and reflect back to you. All an LSP can do is minimize the muting of the flakes/pearls.



In other words it is the preparation before the sealant which will give the paint the ability to "pop". Is this correct?

Here is a decent pic of my G. It shows some reflection but it was overcast that day. When I give it the complete job I will certainly post some bragging pictures :) This was only after wash and NXT by hand.



http://webpages.charter.net/suhres/images/G35/01pass.jpg



I am in nearly the same boat as you are UMG35. I have some swirls that need attention as well. My G is desert platinum which is a tad darker than silver but lighter than yours.

It is a strange color and I am trying to nail down what would be the best products/process to use in order to give it that wet look. It shouldn`t be real hard to corect because from what I understand our paint is soft. This is also obvious by the ease of rock chips.



Good luck with yours and I will keep an eye on this thread to see what suggestions are made.



take care.

[White95Max]

In other words it is the preparation before the sealant which will give the paint the ability to "pop". Is this correct?







Yes. The flakes are there, regardless of what LSP you`re using. The only thing you can do is make sure the clearcoat above the flakes is as transparent as possible, to ensure that all light gets through to the flakes and reflected back. If you have an LSP that is less-than-perfectly transparent, some of the light will not be able to reach the flakes and reflect back.

[UMG35]

Yeah here is a pic of my car with just a regular wax and no prep, before I found out about this site and learned how the right way to detail my car. It looks good in the pic but up close you can still see some light swirls.



http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/9840/cimg00037rt.jpg

[White95Max]

:drool:



I think there is improvement to be made on the paint, but that car`s setup is just beautiful! :xyxthumbs

[imported_Neothin]

agree ^



That thing is just sex on wheels (large chrome wheels that is). clear out that amber sidemarker though :(

[klnyc]

2X ^^ :drool:

[UMG35]

Thanks for the compliments, those are actually older pics and I have now have clear coners and a few other things. Now I just have to figure what Propel Pads to use> Alright now some final questions before I put my order through:(Updated Process)



1. Wash

2. Clay

3. Polish with SSR1 and move to SSR2.5 if necessary then back to SSR1 (Use Green then move to yellow if necessary)

4. Clean with AIO (Use the blue pad or do it by hand)

5. Seal with UPP (multiple coats? - Use the grey pad or by hand?)

6. Wax with Natty`s (By hand with MF Applicator)



Also to remove all the products use MF towels or use the PC with MF bonnets. I appreciate all the help you guys gave and I hope to have pics up as soon as I get my products and detail next week.

[White95Max]

I`d use a blue pad with SSR1, and move to SSR2.5/green if it wasn`t enough. If THAT isn`t enough either, move up to 2.5/yellow.



Be sure to crank the machine up to speed 5 or 6 after spreading the polish around, and don`t be afraid to use a little pressure. You will not remove any swirls on low speed.



Use AIO with a blue pad. It`s very easy to use by PC.



UPP is very easy to use by hand. I will never use it via PC, because it`s so thin. You`d waste a lot of product as it soaked into the pad.

Multiple coats never hurt anything, but wait at least a few hours before adding another coat. Generally the consensus is to wait 24hours between layers.



To remove products, I`d use MF towels. I`ve never used a bonnet on my PC, but I`ve always loved that time of the detail when you`re gently wiping off the LSP to reveal a beautiful finish underneath. I think the PC/bonnet would spoil some of that pleasure. :)

[twitch]

yeah you definitely have a sweet ride there. I can`t wait to see the detail pics!