Wax with best durability and mirror look?

S

seafire

New member
Hello all,



I've been reading the different posts for the past weeks on what to use to polish and wax my car and would like any advice you can offer to help me on my following process.



I'm purchasing the PC 7424 set with pads from autogeek for $179. My set has only the LC orange pad 6.5", white pad , and grey pad. Is it necessary to buy the XMT polishing pad conditioner? I would think all you need is enough product on the pad to freely move the PC. Can I lightly mist the pad with water?



I recently brought a car, 2006 Mercury Montego black color, that sat on the dealership's lot for 8 months and has a lot of swirls from dealership washes. Those swirls and long sratches on every inch of the car are really annoying to look at in the bright sun, especially in black.



This would be my process when I receive the PC in a couple of days. Can you look at my process and answer any of the questions you think I should correct to obtain the swirl free look and the shine of a wet bright mirror reflection look:





Thick Microfiber Chenille orange wash mitt (Vroom brand)

Gold Class Wash (should had brought NXT wash)

Scrub rims and tire with Eagle one tire and wheel cleaner.

Dry car with microfiber towel from Sams Club (25 pk for $11). I rubbed the MF hard onto the CD and it did not scratch the CD disk.

Clay bar from Mother's and lube (1/2 of the bar left over from 3 years ago)



Will Meguiars #83 or #21 stain plastic trim of the car? Would any of you use blue painters tape for #83 or #21 ?



-- 1st, I'll use Meguiar's #83 Dual-Action Cleaner/Polish with LC Orange cutting pad at speed 5 in a 2 foot x 2 foot working section.

I heard that it may gum up quickly. I will buff off by hand with a soft Cobra Microfiber Towel.

When should I use the white polishing pad?



I did not purchase #9 SMR because I assume #83 will remove all of the swirls.

If the light swirls are still on the car, should I use the #83 with the white pad?

Or should I use the #83 or #21 with a white pad or gray pad?



I read on autogeek that #21 can eliminate fine swirls and scratches. Does #21 use fillers?



-- 2nd, hoping that all of the swirls are removed from #83, I will apply #21 Synthetic Sealant with gray pad at speed 3 to 4.

Can I spread the #21 over the whole car and can I start removing it all at one time with the white pad?

Or should I remove the #21 by hand with the Cobra MF?

I would apply a 2nd coat in an hour or Should I wait for it to cure and apply another 2nd coat 24 hours later? I hope to get 3 to 4 months lasting protection from this sealant.



And If I'm not satisfy with the shine, should I apply #26 for the bright look?

I don't want the dark black look but the wet bright mirror look from the black.

I heard that NXT Tech paste wax has cleaning properties and may dull the look.

Or can I use NXT Tech paste instead of #26.



Can I use #21 on the clearcoat aluminum wheels because I heard it helps repel alot of the brake dust release from this car ?



Lastly , Am I doing too much work to remove the swirl or should I do something else to shorting the time to remove swirls and wax the car. In need of advice. Thank you.
 
I think you are on an ok path to swirl removal. You just have to try, every car is different and the reason most of us have shelves full of products. Collinte is great for a wax, but you may want to consider a sealant also.
 
Collinite Marque de Elegance is a great wax. It doesn't stain black vinyl and it lasts for months. The Collinite Insulator wax is also great.
 
On a black car you might need to follow-up #83 with #80 (on a white polishing pad) to remove any hazing that the #83 might leave behind. With only one pad each (orange/white) you will most likely have to clean them before you finish the whole car. You can use a toothbrush (have the PC on a low speed.... and be careful), a white terry towel doing the same method, or a quick wash. If you wash them squeeze out as much water as possible and then put it on your PC and turn it on with the pad inside a 5 gal bucket. The bucket will keep you, your car, and everything else from getting splattered. I've never used a terry towel for pad cleaning, but I think Mike Phillips (from Meg's) once suggested that method, so I thought I'd mention it.
 
The others have right that the Collinites are durable. The 845 would be good for you, because it gives a bright look as well.



But...



Your product choice is definitely good. The Meguiar's LSPs will do an awesome job, but I'd suggest you a different approach. Try #80 first with a white polishing pad. If that proves too weak, then upgrade to #80/orange, then #83.



- it is not necessary to use the polishing pad conditioner, because water or a good QD (for example Megs #34) will fit here perfectly

- #21 won't stain trim

- if you want to protect some rubber or trim you can use blue tape, but if you a plastic/rubber protectant, you'll be fine

- #21 uses fine fillers, and that is perfectly good

- remove the #21 with a thick MF, but you can practice as well with a finishing pad, NOT a polishing one!

- yes, you can apply the #21 over the entire car before removal; you can leave it on a LOT longer if you wish (may be even beneficial)

- apply the next layer after 12 hours, and the 3rd after 24 hours

- #21 will last through 4-5 months

- if you are not satisfied (highly doubt it), top it with NXT paste (excellent combo)

- #26 provides insane wetness and richness, but not necessarily the mirror look you may looking for; NXT paste is suited better to this task

- NXT paste will NOT dull your finish!!!

- the cleaners in it are rather weak, they are promoting agents for a better bond

- the NXT paste/#26 is another great combo, which is reflective and wet

- #21 is great on wheels



So, you'll be fine and this is not too much work. If the car is swirled, it simply needs it. The process itself requires different steps but always start with the least abrasive products. That's why I suggested #80 first. Try and look.
 
You said you should have gotten the NXT car wash instead of the Gold Class. I have both and I actually like the Gold Class better. I'm no expert but the Gold Class seems less harsh than the NXT.. Actually very mild cleaning to me.



I guess if your car was very dirty with tar and gunk the NXT would be a better choice, but since you already have the Gold Class I wouldn't sweat it, to me it's great.



Russell
 
After all of the swirl removal, which IMHO is best done with menzerna or optimum, I would highly recommend zaino z5pro x2 then some z2pro for a little brighter look. It will definitely be mirror, and of course the durability is in my book, second to none.



Greg
 
GregCavi said:
After all of the swirl removal, which IMHO is best done with menzerna or optimum, I would highly recommend zaino z5pro x2 then some z2pro for a little brighter look. It will definitely be mirror, and of course the durability is in my book, second to none.



Greg
Click to expand...
Did YOU even bother to READ the Thread Header? :sadwavey: ... "Wax with best durability and mirror look?"
 
To member Eliot Ness , I will definitely wash each pad with the snappy packet in my kit and squeeze out as much water as possible. Any other way to speed up the quick clean process like watering it down and lightly brush and spinning it? Using the 5 gal bucket to spin dry the pads and keep everything else clean is a good idea.



To member Yakky, I've also heard that the collinte is durable. Isn't the collinte a sealant itself becuase it will last up to the predicted 3 to 5 months? I only ask because you said to top the collinite with a sealant. That's one of the reasons why I chose the #21 is from reading other posts that it is durable sealant and has a nice shine. Hoping that I will not need to use the NXT Tech wax. Like the saying may go, I'm trying to kill two birds with one stone. I'll see soon after my wash and try to post pictures of the results.



To member Bence. I will try the #80 1st with the white pad hoping the swirls on the car paint are not too deep to remove. It make sense to use the less abrasive 1st. I don't want to wear down the clearcoat and the #80 has a lesser cut scale of 4 compared to the #83. Your pictures of the 92 camry detail work looks stunning from last year. I was drooling while looking at the hood in the second to the last pictures. I hope to have a bright white wet reflection all over my car like your camry's hood from a looking distance. Well, I was already drooling before while looking at the picture of your car's side panel under your member name on this thread. http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/62683-my-92-camry-two-months-after-full-detail.html

You also said if I want to protect some of my rubber or trim I can use a plastic/rubber protectant. Should I apply the Armor All Low Shine protectant on 1st or do I apply it after when I have the white wax marks from polishing?



After I apply #80, do I have to wait an hour or can I immediately apply #21 onto the car ?



While I remember, if I wash the car 2 weeks later from my full detail, Do I just wash carefully with the foamgun method and that's it. Or do I have to apply more of # 21 ? Or maybe Meguiar #34 Final Inspection?



After washing, I'll be drying with a MF. What do you think is the best way to dry the car without scratching the black clearcoat? Air Blower leaf gun....



And if I am using #80, would that remove the previous #80 and #21 ?



In my PC kit, I know the orange pad is the most abrasive of the three. But which one is more abrasive, the White polishing pad or the Gray Pad (look black though) ? I'm guessing the white pad is more abrasive. But I was confuse when it post that the White pad is use for removal of wax too. And the gray pads are finishing pads.



Bence said - remove the #21 with a thick MF, but you can practice as well with a finishing pad, NOT a polishing one! Should I apply #21 with a white pad or gray finishing pad? I'll remove #21 with a MF 1st and if tiresome, I will use the finishing gray pad. On the autogeek.com website, it said would be okay to use the white polishing pad for removal of sealants too. But I guess it would be more safe to use the Gray pad.



To Sardian. I don't really know the differance between the Gold Class and NXT wash. Thanks for making me feel better about having the Gold Class.



To others, If what I try don't work, I may try your products.



Any other wax, sealants, or products that will easily repel dust from gravel roads while the car is sitting in the parking lot at work? Or should I just quickly rinse the car when I get home? Prefer not to rinse though being tired from work and hope the dust would just glide off while I'm driving home. : )
 
PINITI-FX said:
Did YOU even bother to READ the Thread Header? :sadwavey: ... "Wax with best durability and mirror look?"
Click to expand...

what? Z5 and z2 is a wax listed as a polish. Its more of a selant wax hybrid, that is why they call it a polish. It is very durable and gives a mirror look.:secret
 
Frugle, the Zs have no natural wax ingredients. They are sealants and Sal call them polishes. The car care raw material manufacturers refer to the term "polymer sealants" generally as polishes.



Seafire,



thanks for your kind words.



- The NXT paste is an awesome wax! Using it on or under #21 will produce a very reflective mirror shine.

- You have to apply the rubber protectant first, to make the rubber more "slippery". Polish and wax residue can not stick to a protected trim.

- Polishes don't have to cure. Wipe off immediately.

- It is recommended to apply a QD after a wash, but not life threatening if you wouldn't do that. It adds nice slickness though. Another layer of #21 is purely optional.

- The most gentle method is blotting dry with a WW. But a clean (!) blower is good, followed by a plush MF to clean up the last beads.

- A polish will remove the previous protection.

- Yes gray/black pads are the finishing ones (but different manufacturers use sometimes different color codes).

- Apply the #21 with a finishing pad.

- It will be very easy to remove by hand.

- No product can actually repel dust. There a few exceptions but they are just not attracting dust as much as others would. However, settling dust will be always on the car.

- You can remove a light dust layer with liberal amounts of #34 or even better ONR QD when you get home.
 
GregCavi said:
After all of the swirl removal, which IMHO is best done with menzerna or optimum, I would highly recommend zaino z5pro x2 then some z2pro for a little brighter look. It will definitely be mirror, and of course the durability is in my book, second to none.



Greg
Click to expand...



Greg, have you even tried Meg's polishes (80-series) or #21?



I'm glad that you are liking the results of Zaino, but that doesn't mean that it's automatically the best product for everyone else... There's a lot of quality products out there.
 
One other long-lasting LSP wax (hard carnauba) that leaves a beautiful shine (and contains excellent fillers) is Blitz Wax.
 
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