Need help picking combo to use with PC

G

granntl

New member
I have done searches and Frankly, there are so many possibilities with products, I thought I'd just ask for advice.



Just ordered my PC from Sonus.



I have two dark colored base/clear cars and one black laquer Grand National with original paint.



All three cars have minor scratches, swirls, marring. I would like to correct those flaws, but am really worried about hurting the paint with the PC.



Will you please reccomend a good product for me?:confused: :confused:
 
#80 speedglaze is a good starting point, topped off by almost anything you like. Put a reasonable amount on, spread it on 2 then up to 5.5 0r 6 if you can stand the vibes (take side handle off) to buff out. remove residual with terry towel, and admire the amazing shine!!!
 
Welcome, the two polishes I use are 1Z polishes and PB SSR polishes. Both are easy to use 1Z polishes have fillers, the SSR's are strictly polishes no fillers. In the 1Z line I use UPP, PP, MP and with PB SSR polishes I use SSR 2.5, SSR 1. Of the two I prefer the SSR polishes because what you see is what you get after polishing. Minor scratches may be hidden with the 1Z polishes but not with PB SSR polishes. Not to say 1Z are bad polishes, infact the MP is a great finishing polish after all maring is removed. The wax in MP leaves the paint looking really nice. When using SSR 2.5 correctly the polish will break down to leave the paint clear enough that you may not need to use SSR 1, this really save time. I hope this helps.:xyxthumbs
 
I recommend Poorboys SSR2.5 with a cutting pad for moderate to heavy swirls, then finish polishing with SSR1 with a polishing pad for a great finish. I would also recommend the Menzerna Twins IP and FPII. Both are great and what I currently use, but I feel the SSR2.5 has more swirl removing capability then Menzerna IP. That's why i have all three :)
 
I'd probably go with the 1Z in this case. Yeah, they might hide a lttle remaining marring but they're very user-friendly. I sometimes think we get a bit extreme about the "remove all the marring" approach. And it's not like the 1Z stuff does more hiding than cutting.



On the GN I'd only use the MP. I'd *MUCH* rather have thick, but imperfect, original paint than go too far with the marring removal and have to repaint it.



#80 is an OK product but I wouldn't use that on the GN for the above reason. Would be a fine starting point for the others though.
 
The PC does not remove paint that fast. IMO it takes a cutting pad and strong products to remove any significant amount of paint. IMO if your car has swirls and some scrtaches start with #80 or SSR2 and a polishing pad. I have used #83 and a orange pad on a 1978 Red Porsche and hardly thinned the paint at all. Switch to more agressive stuff as needed. MP, #9, SSR1 are pretty weak with a PC and remove only light defects.
 
jetskie said:
The PC does not remove paint that fast. IMO it takes a cutting pad and strong products to remove any significant amount of paint. IMO if your car has swirls and some scrtaches start with #80 or SSR2 and a polishing pad. I have used #83 and a orange pad on a 1978 Red Porsche and hardly thinned the paint at all. Switch to more agressive stuff as needed. MP, #9, SSR1 are pretty weak with a PC and remove only light defects.
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Can you please tell me what MP means? I don't see it on the decoder list.



Thanks
 
MP (1Z MP) = Einszett Metallic Polish



Don't worry about thinning paint, unless you put sand paper on your PC it won't happen. A DA polisher is very different from a rotary which builds a lot of heat and can thin paint. You would have to really mess up to thin paint with a PC, it's that safe.
 
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