Collinite selector guide

[Swanicyouth]

WaxAddict, THAT is the reason I`ve resisted the urge to try 915. I`ve read that it isn`t an easy product to use. I gather you think it`s appearance is worth having to tip-toe around the application. Is it that much better than 845, which is sooo easy to use?

915 is exetremly easy to use. I think that myth may come from an older formula of 915 from years ago. I have a tub that`s many years old and it`s easier than most waxes. It doesn`t buff off "smeary"; but it does buff off easy. 915 is an older product, and I`m sure the formula was updated at one point.

I encourage you to try it. It`s very easy to use and very good.

[Pats300zx]

915 is exetremly easy to use. I think that myth may come from an older formula of 915 from years ago. I have a tub that`s many years old and it`s easier than most waxes. It doesn`t buff off "smeary"; but it does buff off easy. 915 is an older product, and I`m sure the formula was updated at one point.

I encourage you to try it. It`s very easy to use and very good.

The key to 915 is applying it thin. I apply to one panel and apply to second panel. Move quickly back to first panel as it hazes and buff off.

If you apply it to thick or let it sit to long it`s a bear to remove.

[E-Jag]

Swanicyouth, consider me encouraged. And thanks, Pats300zx. Sounds like I just need to remember to not let it set up for an hour like I usually do 845. Sorta looking forward to this.

[PA DETAILER]

476s has a following too i see. Their most longest lasting wax.

[WaxAddict]

WaxAddict, THAT is the reason I`ve resisted the urge to try 915. I`ve read that it isn`t an easy product to use. I gather you think it`s appearance is worth having to tip-toe around the application. Is it that much better than 845, which is sooo easy to use?

915 is absolutely NOT hard to use if you use it right. As usual, thin coats are the order of the day, but even more important is curing time. Just a haze, and wipe off. If it hazes in 4 minutes then that`s your cure time. Don`t be tempted to do large areas, or like someone I know, the entire car, before removal.

I also use and like 845, but 915 is the bomb on dark blue, black, and any very dark color. If you have silver, white, bright red... 845 is actually a better choice IMO.

[Accumulator]

All Collinite stuff got reformulated bach when the new/current VOC regulations too effect. They claimed it was a bit of a challenge. I myself bought a lifetime supply of pre-VOC 476S.

Wonder if the "don`t let it set up too long" thing has anything to do with that reformulation...I let my 845 and 476S set up however long (sometimes hours if something comes up), with the exception of using them on trim (that`s always W-O-W-O only) and I`ve never had a problem.

One thing I *have* had a problem with is using FK425 QD on relatively fresh 476S- *HORRIBLE* solvent-effect pseudo-holograms that wouldn not buff away, ahd to strip it all off and start over.

[TheMeanGreen]

Huh, guess experiences differ...at least a little.

I`ve used Collinite 845 and 476S since forever. IME the 845 isn`t as durable as it`s reputed to be, or at least it`s not in the same league as 476S. Not that is isn`t pretty good in this regard, but I wouldn`t expect miracles. Layering *does* help, but I`d wait as long as possible to avoid solvent-efect. I *have* done OK by topping 845 with 476S right away, and it can make things easier when working along the edges of pinstripe/PPF/etc.

FWIW, it was lack of durability that prompted me to quit using Collinite (on all but one vehicle) in favor of FK1000P despite sometimes preferring the look of the former. Simply no comparison with regard to durability IME, so heh heh..."if you think 845 is durable..." The FK1000P doesn`t look all *that* different from 845 IMO but the 476S is simply good-looking in the usual paste wax-sense. I`ve had "experts" (scare-quotes intentional ) mistake 476S for a boutique wax when applied to a well-polished concours car.

845 is nice on trim (I`d use W-O-W-O), but 476S can often be used that way too (*definitely* gotta use W-O-W-O!! and maybe this is a "don`t try this at home, kids!" kinda thing..). I`d pre-clean the trim with KAIO if using Collinite this way. IME neither lasts as long as Ultima`s T&TG+ (prep for that with Griot`s Rubber Prep instead of the KAIO).

845 is "brighter", more reflective, sorta looks like a (liquid version of) M16. 476S gives better depth and "jetting". The differences fade after a few washes.

With both products, using less makes everything go better.

I`d refresh both as soon as the (really impressive) beading starts to change, at that point I seldom bother claying/etc. I just put on another coat of the Collinite.

Oh, just FWIW, the last time I talked with the guys at Collinite, they *ALL* were using 476S on their vehicles.

I know that I am bringing up an old post.


@Accumulator:

We are on the same page about FK1000P as we are the two that really push it, on this forum. I have a question about Collinite 476S. I have a can that I purchased at the same time as the FK and am now experimenting with it before I do the pre-winter `full correction` detail. Have you ever toped glaze with the 476S? My FK on the top panels is dying because of the heat and age (Fourish months of DD in the Texas HEAT, I`ll take it). I`ve been playing with Meg`s #9 (CCS White) followed by Meg`s #3 (HydroTech Red), and then topping with 476S (HydroTech Red, a little over zealous with the 476S this past application). I haven`t removed the TSO`s (Now use Opti Paint Prep, I have turned away from strong IPA mix) and it seems like I am chasing *Psuedo Holograms*. I will make the disclaimer that it has not had 24 hours to "cure" from this moment. Have you ever run into this issue with 476S over any glazes or TSO`s?

[Accumulator]

TheMeanGreen- I`ve used 476S over products that leave stuff behind, but oddly enough I can`t recall ever using it over M09 or other products that I`d really put in the Glaze category. I`d *expect* it to work OK over M09 (if only because so many LSPs do) and if I had to take a guess I`d say that all the TSO in M03 are what`s causing the pseudo-holograms (huge PIA those, huh?!?).

I can`t help but wonder how the FK1000P would work over M09...I have it over 1Z WaxPolishSoft (another "Pro-grade CleanerWax"/AIO-type product that leaves concealing stuff behind) and AutoGlym SRP, and 1Z Pro-line Metallic Polish and it`s fine over all of those.

As long as the underlying product "dries dry" (e.g., M09 might contain the same TSO but it seems to "dry more dry" than M07) I`d expect both 476S and FK1000P to work OK. But I don`t really know and I bet YMMV too.
As with detailing, most people don`t have a clue even if/when they`ve been into this stuff for years.

And FWIW, I *like* it when somebody resurrects an old thread as opposed to starting a new one. There can be good info in the older posts that might not get mentioned these days, or info that is no longer valid (e.g., stuff about Pre-VOC products that doesn`t hold true for Post-VOC versions) and shouldn`t be lying in wait of Newbies who might find it with a search.

[TheMeanGreen]

@Accumulator:

For the past two days I have been searching my butt off for anything related to Meg`s #9 and Meg`s #3 and somehow came across this thread, I think you can thank google. For the *Psuedo-Holograms*/Meg`s #3/476S, I have been guessing the same thing, but have been adamant in getting this combo to work so I can get a routine going: Twice a year detail with the M205 variances and either FK or PB EX-P (I have yet to really test durability) and when those start to die off (water spotting possibility greatly increases), come in with #9, #3, and then 476S (this combo in between big details). That way I minimize clear coat removal and just `mask` defects for a couple months. These pseudo-holograms are worse than layering FK with Natty`s Black. I may have applied too much #3, not let it dry enough, and possibly too much 476S this time around. I will have to go out and try it later on.


For the FK1000P, I`ve only IPA`d after polish or compound in the past, with then following FK`s Foam Pad Glaze. The two FK products are always reliable for me and ALWAYS deliver a swirl/hologram free finish, of course the prior M205/CCS White play a big role too.

In my searching, I`ve found that #3 is more of a machine applicable version of #7 and a little less oily, but I yet to find my answer for #9, however #9 gets covered with #3. As far as #9 is concerned, I am using it because I have water spotting on a few upward facing panels like the trunk and one area of the hood where the FK is dying.

Resurrecting old threads is fun!! When I owned my Jeep, I belong(-ed) to the JeepForum. There is this one thread that was started years ago by a Jeeper that got in wreck, was kind of `live` posting about it, and then would update for a few months while he was fixing his Jeep. I`ll tell you what, I have never read or participated in a more ridiculous thread than that one; everyone ripped into him because nothing he said never made sense, or he would contradict himself. To this day (thread posted in 2012) I still get updates for the occasional comment or two, when I get the email notification I Always have a chuckle.

[Accumulator]

TheMeanGreen- Not to split hairs, but I dunno if the M03 really "dries" any more than M07 does (people talk about M07 "skinning"). Eh, I always found the Meg`s Pure Polishes (such as M03) to be a complete waste of time/effort on b/c paint, so *I* would just use the M09 by itself.

[TheMeanGreen]

TheMeanGreen- Not to split hairs, but I dunno if the M03 really "dries" any more than M07 does (people talk about M07 "skinning"). Eh, I always found the Meg`s Pure Polishes (such as M03) to be a complete waste of time/effort on b/c paint, so *I* would just use the M09 by itself.

I don`t mid, this is all a part of learning!!

[Billy Jack]

I still have M02, M03 and M09 on the shelf from when my local detail supply house quit carrying Meguiar`s stuff back in the late 80`s. I also had Vol. I, No. I of Meg`s tech bulletins explaining the "new" M02 and M09 products. I gave the bulletin to Mike Phillips for his collection, since he didn`t have Vol.1. Unlike M03 and M07, they were formulated for "Hi-Tech" paints, so they don`t leave any oily haze, as least IME. I`ve never had an issue with drying difficulties using M03, but since I have 2 & 9, I don`t ever recall using M03 on BC/CC paint, just old Single-Stage paints.

Bill

[Fallz]

[QUOTE=Accumulator;1984099


FWIW, it was lack of durability that prompted me to quit using Collinite[/QUOTE]

You have got to be kidding……….

[Accumulator]

You have got to be kidding…[about quitting Collinite due to its durability]…….

Though this is one of those "YMMV things", no, I`m not kidding. For decades Collinite was the second-best LSP I used for durability, with the 476S lasting longer than the 845. And yeah, I tried every conceivable layering approach/combo of the two. No question, they`re very good, and for ages the only thing that beat Collinite was *heavily* layered Klass Sealant Glaze (which didn`t look right to me on many paints). They lasted longer than a few sealants I tried and protected much better against etching, so I was all about how everybody oughta use Collinite. BUT...

Then I tried FK1000P, and that was that. Lasts longer, stays easy-to-clean longer, protects against etching *MUCH* better, and has a signature look that I prefer on some colors/paints (while not liking it so much on others). Protects so well that I don`t even think about etching from bugs/birds any more.

Not hating on Collinite at all, was very happy with it for ages and it`s still a fine choice that will satisfy a lot of people. But I get better functionality out of the FK1000P by far.

[Fallz]

Though this is one of those "YMMV things", no, I`m not kidding. For decades Collinite was the second-best LSP I used for durability, with the 476S lasting longer than the 845. And yeah, I tried every conceivable layering approach/combo of the two. No question, they`re very good, and for ages the only thing that beat Collinite was *heavily* layered Klass Sealant Glaze (which didn`t look right to me on many paints). They lasted longer than a few sealants I tried and protected much better against etching, so I was all about how everybody oughta use Collinite. BUT...

Then I tried FK1000P, and that was that. Lasts longer, stays easy-to-clean longer, protects against etching *MUCH* better, and has a signature look that I prefer on some colors/paints (while not liking it so much on others). Protects so well that I don`t even think about etching from bugs/birds any more.

Not hating on Collinite at all, was very happy with it for ages and it`s still a fine choice that will satisfy a lot of people. But I get better functionality out of the FK1000P by far.

Ok So Im taking your advice and doing my own test. I Took 2 Toyota hoods. One silver metallic and one magnetic gray metallic and did half 476s and half 1000p. I was done a week ago and still can`t see a visual difference the silver was done today 9/15 and can`t see a difference at all. I even had a couple people look at the 2 sides. They both look real good. No opinion either way as far as durability since they are both fresh. I know the 1000p is a great wax I don`t bout that at all , but the Collinite has given great durability for me and lots of beading/shedding. What do I watch for with the 1000p ?? sheeting , beading to test longevity for winter. BTW my go to detail spray is the FK425 for years now so at least that will play well with 1000p.