Huh, guess experiences differ...at least a little.
I`ve used Collinite 845 and 476S since forever. IME the 845 isn`t as durable as it`s reputed to be, or at least it`s not in the same league as 476S. Not that is isn`t pretty good in this regard, but I wouldn`t expect miracles. Layering *does* help, but I`d wait as long as possible to avoid solvent-efect. I *have* done OK by topping 845 with 476S right away, and it can make things easier when working along the edges of pinstripe/PPF/etc.
FWIW, it was lack of durability that prompted me to quit using Collinite (on all but one vehicle) in favor of FK1000P despite sometimes preferring the look of the former. Simply no comparison with regard to durability IME, so heh heh..."if you think 845 is durable..."
The FK1000P doesn`t look all *that* different from 845 IMO but the 476S is simply good-looking in the usual paste wax-sense. I`ve had "experts" (scare-quotes intentional
) mistake 476S for a boutique wax when applied to a well-polished concours car.
845 is nice on trim (I`d use W-O-W-O), but 476S can often be used that way too (*definitely* gotta use W-O-W-O!! and maybe this is a "don`t try this at home, kids!" kinda thing..). I`d pre-clean the trim with KAIO if using Collinite this way. IME neither lasts as long as Ultima`s T&TG+ (prep for that with Griot`s Rubber Prep instead of the KAIO).
845 is "brighter", more reflective, sorta looks like a (liquid version of) M16. 476S gives better depth and "jetting". The differences fade after a few washes.
With both products, using less makes everything go better.
I`d refresh both as soon as the (really impressive) beading starts to change, at that point I seldom bother claying/etc. I just put on another coat of the Collinite.
Oh, just FWIW, the last time I talked with the guys at Collinite, they *ALL* were using 476S on their vehicles.
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