New to decontamination

**agtjamesb007** · 07-23-2016, 04:36 PM

I have never used a decontamination product on my car other than a clay bar once a year.
Is a chemical decontamiator necessary if a clay bar is used? (under conditions where the car does not accumulate much fallout) And how often should it be used?
What are some good brands without breaking the bank? Optimum Ferrex? Iron-X?
Do any of these also contain a degreaser?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

**rookiez** · 07-23-2016, 05:56 PM

I like using Iron-X, TRIX, or 3D BDX (Slightly cheaper) for chemical decontamination. I use a diluted Optimum Power Clean as well on a certain super super nasty car (This will be very harsh though). I don`t think we need a degreaser as I feel that soap is enough to break up every dirt in the car besides tough iron particles or tars. Occasionally, some cars got stained with tree saps that I use GooGone and plastic blade to remove it for a cost efficient method.

The method I use for cleaning customers` cars starts with pre-rinsing to move out the dirt first. Spray OPC into tires and wheels, wait for 1-2 mins while agitate it with a low-profile tire brush & mother`s wheel brush / speed master wheel brush. Rinse it with water again. Then, I start to check around fenders or lower part of the vehicle and spray some iron-x stuffs to help break up the brake dusts that stick on the paint and wheels. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes then rinse it again. Wash the car with a good soap and give it a good rinse. Then, NanoSkin or clay bars come into play as the last step!

I only use degreaser on engine bays. This is my method for decontaminating, some other members might have a better method though

Here`s several cost-efficient products that you should have IMHO:
Optimum Power Clean -> Great for tires, wheels, and nasty stains (I don`t usually have to use iron-x on wheels after I use this product). Try to buy the gallon size and dilute it 1:3
3D BDX -> One of the most cost effective iron-x like products that can be used on wheels/paints as well based on the demo video. Some members found the iron-x is more effective though, but I found it to be very very cost effective for using this product instead.

I hope that my opinion here helps

**briarpatch** · 07-23-2016, 07:41 PM

Although I can`t attest to its` effectiveness versus doing separate decon steps, I`ve used (and like) DoDo Juice Supernatural Ferro Lube. It is basically an iron decontaminant and a clay lube all in one. Used it very successfully to decontaminate our Sequoia after it was parked near a busy airport for a week.

**rlmccarty2000** · 07-23-2016, 08:29 PM

If you have never used an iron remover type product you will be surprised at the amount of contamination your clay bar has missed. Is it absolutely necessary? No, but after seeing the amount of iron contamination Iron-X removed from my cars I now use it once a year, just to be safe. The town I live in has a very busy railroad through the middle of it and this probably contributes to the large amount of iron contamination on my cars. Depending on where you live the contamination may be milder, but why take a chance when a 16 oz bottle will do your car twice?

**pwaug** · 07-24-2016, 10:56 AM

Agree that once a year is usually plenty depending on where you live so why take the chance. If you look on the Carpro website Corey lists directions on how to use Iron X that really do save product. Using his method I`m able to get 4 decons out of a 16oz bottle.

**Accumulator** · 07-24-2016, 11:30 AM

Clay is designed to basically shear off contamination that sits on/sticks up from the surface of the paint. It doesn`t really "pull contamination out" of the paints pores/micro-fissures/etc. the way some think it does. Clay is often sufficient decontamination, but sometimes it`s not.

The chemicals can get down into the pores/etc. and are less likely to "leave undisturbed contamination" behind the way clay can.

Regulars here know that I`m all about the ValuGard ABC system, if only because it`s been extensively tested/fully approved by so many of the major automakers.

That said, I hardly *ever* decontaminate my vehicles, just not much of an issue for me in my specific situation. How often it needs done is strictly a case-by-case determination.

**agtjamesb007** · 08-01-2016, 03:19 AM

These Iron removers that are also wheel cleaners....when sprayed you no doubt will spray through the wheel design and onto the brakes. I would think that they would begin to pit the rotors and deteriorate the brake pads over time. However its never brought up as a topic. Why doesn`t it do this? What do you think?

**Accumulator** · 08-01-2016, 11:27 AM

Originally Posted by agtjamesb007

These Iron removers that are also wheel cleaners....when sprayed you no doubt will spray through the wheel design and onto the brakes. I would think that they would begin to pit the rotors and deteriorate the brake pads over time. However its never brought up as a topic. Why doesn`t it do this? What do you think?

When we`re talking about regular old cast iron rotors, stuff that eliminates rust/ferrous contamination has never caused issues for me. It might *clean* areas of the rotor that it contacts, but it`s far too mild to do any damage. Now the rusting (left unrectified for too long), that can cause pitting/etc. in some cases.

Similarly, I`ve never had such stuff damage my calipers (regardless of their finish) or the pads. IME these are tough surfaces and if daily use/abuse and Brake Cleaning Products don`t hurt them then neither will detailing products that`re safe enough to use on wheels.

DISCLAIMER- None of the above applies to fancy brakes such as composit/ceramic rotors/etc. with which I have zero experience.

Just FWIW, I hardly ever use Wheel Cleaners/other products made for removing ferrous contamination. My wheels stay perfectly fine without it; I *might* use it once annually if doing a Big Cleanup related to switching to/from Winter Wheels/Tires, but I don`t even do the Big Cleanup every year as sometimes things stay OK with just the cleaning they get from regular washes.

If you need to decontaminate, then by all means do so...but I`m not in favor of doing unnecessary work.

**XxBoostinxX** · 08-01-2016, 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Just FWIW, I hardly ever use Wheel Cleaners/other products made for removing ferrous contamination. My wheels stay perfectly fine without it; I *might* use it once annually if doing a Big Cleanup related to switching to/from Winter Wheels/Tires, but I don`t even do the Big Cleanup every year as sometimes things stay OK with just the cleaning they get from regular washes.

If you need to decontaminate, then by all means do so...but I`m not in favor of doing unnecessary work.

I am in agreement with you Accumulator. I don`t think you need to use a ferrous remover as often as some are led to believe. Maybe once every couple of months otherwise I believe you are just wasting product and money because they aren`t cheap. I can remember early on using IronX all the time as a wheel cleaner and thinking, "why isn`t it turning colors?" . It just isn`t made to be a maintenance product. There are plenty of cheap alternatives for maintenance such as Meg`s D143.

**Accumulator** · 08-01-2016, 12:27 PM

Originally Posted by XxBoostinxX

I am in agreement with you Accumulator. I don`t think you need to use a ferrous remover as often as some are led to believe. .. I can remember early on using IronX all the time as a wheel cleaner and thinking, "why isn`t it turning colors?"

IMO people overestimate how much iron brake rotors shed. Ditto for snowplow blades in the winter. Eh, lots of variables, YMMV...