Rupe's Review: 15 * Diamond Ultra Fine Gel * 150mm Finishing Foam Pad

I had some time to go over my car using the final step in the whole whole Rupes System:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/ha7ydaju.jpg

Not much is mentioned about the Rupes polishes, so my curiosity was peaked. I was using this ultra fine polish to remove my old wax and to try and squeeze out some more gloss and depth. The car`s paint was already very good, so there are no real before and afters.

Here is what I thought:

Rupes 15:

The machine seems top notch. Its smooth and effortless. There are a few things I love about the machine:

1. The speed seems almost infinitely adjustable. There are no detents on the speed adjustment wheel. You can bump it up or down a hair and the machine responds. The speed wheel is just free spinning with very slight resistance.

2. The machine is very usable at lower speeds. The Rupes 15 actually spins the pad well on speed 1 on flat panels. The speeds seem well spaced out and all seem usable. On flat panels, the machine spins well at all speeds. I mainly polished at speed 4.5, which worked just fine.

3. Smoothness and balance of the machine are excellent. It`s also quieter than a Griots GG6 or a PC. The machine has a "cruise control" like feature where if your give it downward pressure it seems to bump up the speed a bit to compensate. The 15 just seems "tighter" and higher quality than a GG6. When the machine runs the gears seem high quality with tight tolerances and quality bearings. There is little vibration with the machine and one hand operation is no problem. You merely need to guide it over the area you want to polish.

4. No more downward pressure required! The machine works well polishing by just guiding it. It`s a lot lest fatiguing on your arms and back. Very user friendly. One odd thing I did notice is because I wasn`t "leaning into" the polisher, like I would a Griot`s 6" to use downward force, but merely guiding it with little pressure, the back of my neck started to hurt when polishing with my arms extended - like in the middle of the hood. But, this is probably just me.

5. The Rupes backing plate seems very high quality and flexible. Much nicer than the supplied GG6 plate. Also, the Rupes pad and BP both have a hole in the center, so if your using them together you just line up the hole and the pad is perfectly centered. Nice and easy.

6. The trigger lock works well. At first I didn`t like it, as I was used to on and off. But then I figured how to use it. I basically start the machine at speed 1 to spread the polish and lock it. Then I bump it up while using it, which is easy to do.

7. The visual design and appeal of the 15 and the whole Rupes "Bigfoot" system is awesome. The little fake plastic carbon fiber piece on the top looks nice, much better than black plastic would. I like the machine`s aesthetics.

8. The polisher stays cool. When using this combo, there is no noticeable heat generated. The machine seems like its able to cool itself and since you don`t need to use much downward pressure the pad stays cool. So, you don`t really have to worry about melting pads if you use the Rupes pads and polishes. I can`t comment on how it works with microfiber pads.

Reflection courtesy of Rupes system:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/epubasut.jpg

What could be improved on the Rupes 15:

1. The cord. The cord seems plastic or vinyl, albeit a high quality cord. I much prefer a rubber cord, as the plastic or vinyl cords like to stay kinked in the position you store them in when you put the tool away. The cord plug also slid in and out of my female extension cord receptacle with hardly any resistance. It`s not a grounded cord. I had to tape the cord so it would stay plugged in. I compared it to my Griots GG6, the male of the Griots plug fits better in the socket.

2. A removable Flex 3401 style handle would be nice for vertical panels, as with the Griots, sometimes I like to rest my hand inside the handle. Not necessary really, but a small bale handle that unbolted would be nice so you could make the choice. However, the machine weighs in at around 5.7 lbs. This is about the same as a GG6. Somehow it feels a tad heavier to me. A handle would weigh more and would require fasteners that weigh more, so it may just be better without.

3. The power on the machine could be a little bit more. I believe the machine is rated somewhere around 4amps / 500 watts. I did not do the washer mod. I have really only had one complex area where the machine bogged down, other than that it`s more than sufficient. The area the machine bogged down was concave, so I just had to hang the buffer down and use half the pad to polish. The GG6 seems much more powerful, however, that doesn`t mean the GG6 corrects faster or better, just that it will not bog down.

4. The Rupes 15 isn`t versatile with different size pads. Even with the 3401 and the LC Backing Plate System, you can use pads as small as 4". You can use any pad with the Rupes 15, as long as its not smaller than 5". So, another DA that accepts smaller backing plates will be required to polish intricate areas. No big deal for me, because I have 2 others DAs and tons of pads. But, it would be nice if somehow you could use 4" pads with this machine.

5. This is really being nit picky, but I`m not sure what the point is of having the Allen key for the BP mounted on the machine. Since the machine isn`t designed to be used with different backing plates, and the machine stores in the original box with the BP - why would you ever need to remove the BP? If you did need to remove it, you could always just get the Allen key out of the box. However, the key stays secure and is out of the way.

Rupe`s Diamond Ultra Fine Gel:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/pajy4a9e.jpg

I was curious about the Rupe`s polishes, since it seems not a lot of people use them. Since they are matched to the machine and pad, it seems like a no brainer. First off, with the Rupes pad and polish, I didn`t prime the pad via the KBM. I just gave it a spritz with Wolfgang Pad Conditioner and applied 4 initial slightly larger than pea size drops.

That turned out to be more than enough. They are calling this product a gel, and it`s "different" than most polish in its consistency. The polish itself seems hyper lubricated and highly concentrated. After my first section pass, I only needed to add this much polish to repeat:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/a4esypyj.jpg

As you can, it takes very little. The polish seems to have polymers or something similar in it. It sort of reminds me of Optimum polishes, where they never seem wet or dry, just "slippery". You can work this polish literally forever. The Ultra Fine Diamond is the only Rupe`s polish I have used. It didn`t dust at all for me, as it never dried.

I don`t know if the polish is DAT or SMAT, or a combo of both. All I could find is that it contains "micro abrasives". Since Rupe`s is touting their system as a time saver, you would think it`s likely SMAT - since with SMAT you can stop polishing as soon as the defect is gone. This would be nice to know, as I`m not sure if the polish should be broken down, or you stop whenever.

Also, I`m not sure if its a function of the pad, polish, or machine; but when using the Rupes as I did here the pad seems to stay cleaner. There is no gummed up polish gravitating toward the center of the pad. This is the pad after multiple uses:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/degydenu.jpg

The polish does not gunk up or gum up. It just seems to vaporize into nothingness, although the pad face has a polymer type feel. It could be because you only use a little bit, or because the machine runs cool.

The polish bottle comes with one of those self cleaning lids. If your using peas size drops, when you close the lid, your going the get another 1/2 a pea size drop of polish ejected out if the lid:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/da5ytezy.jpg

So, this is something to keep in mind when you are dispensing the polish, as you don`t want to waste it, or end up wiping it on your pants like I did the first time. Just use half as much on your last "pea". Unlike most polishes that smell like chemicals, this polish smells like berries or some kind of fruit.

The polish is extremely smooth buffing and sling or splatter is not an issue. Since the polish never seems to dry, it leaves beautiful buffer trails. Here is what it looked like when it was ready to wipe off:

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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/epuha6az.jpg

The polish is fairly easy to remove, but not the easiest - its a bit "oily". It`s also a bit thick and a little streaky. But, you don`t have to scrub it off. I found the best way to remove it was with little circles, straight lines didn`t work well. I always needed to flip the towel to go over the area again. Compared to Menzerna SF4500 or Optimum Finish Polish II, more work is required to remove the polish. Removal is almost like buffing off a slightly smeary wax.

I used the Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile Towel to buff off the residue from the polish. IME this towel is exception (as in The Best) at removing any residue on paint, due to the high pile. It`s also a non linting towel. I could see the polish being a little more work to remove if you were using just an average towel.

The polish says on the bottle it "increases the gloss finish and the color depth". Here are some random pics I took after the polish was wiped off (no LSP - naked paint)

Trunk reflections:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/unasa8a5.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/6yvyqyze.jpg

Flake ?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/u3e8aman.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/y5y2amyt.jpg

Flake washed out by sun:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/je3avapa.jpg

Hood:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/9una7y8u.jpg

The blue tape line above separates the clear bra from the paint. It was also polished, but not yet when this picture was taken. I decided on the below combo to polish the clear bra, because a smaller pad would be needed to get in the corners:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/umejesu4.jpg

As you can see, the old Griot`s still has to come out to use smaller pads, a bit of a detriment when using the Rupes.

Rupes White Finishing Foam Pad (150mm / 6"):

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/8edy7aga.jpg

All the Rupes pads taper bigger towards the face. The pads designed for the Rupes 15 are 5" on the Velcro side, and 6" on the face side. So, while they call it a "5 inch pad", the polishing footprint is 6". The face of the pads are a flat pad style - which most people seem to prefer. The Rupes pads seem to me to be made of some kind of "different" foam than what most pads are. While the pad feels "soft", it feels denser than other finishing pads. Almost like a closed cell pad, which it very well may be.

From my limited experience with the Rupes pads, they seem to be made to wear like iron. Whatever glue is holding the Velcro to the pad seems firm and tough. In my experience, if a pad can be labeled "defective", it`s going to be labeled that because the glue fails holding the Velcro to the foam. Most other failures are user error.

I haven`t seen anyone claiming their Rupe`s pad delaminated yet, so that is a good sign. The fit the 5" BP perfectly and tightly. I have read some have had an issue with pads being held "too tight" to the Rupe`s BP, but I didn`t have a problem removing them. I`ve washed this pad 4 or 5 times so far and it remains like new.

Other than that, all I can say is I can`t find any reason to use any other manufacturer`s pads with the Rupe`s machines. Again, amazingly when you use all these products together and the polish sparingly, the pad never gets gummy or gunked up. I can`t speak for the other Rupe`s combos, but my guess is they are similar.

The polishing is done, but the car isn`t finished. I will post final pics when it`s done.

Thanks for looking * Comments and Feedback appreciated !!!

Wow, nice detailed review Swanicyouth.

I have not heard much about the Rupes polishes either, thanks for taking the time to provide your feedback.

I love the outside trunk lid picture, amazing reflection!

Swanicyouth -

Stunning, beautiful, perfect clarity and gloss !!!!!!

Great, great, write up; excellent wording and thought process, and of course the best review, totally impartial, and unbelievable pictures ...

I love your Z4 ! Having had a new `02 Z3M Coupe, there really is not a better Bimmer for a Bimmer Fanatic than the Z-Cars !!!

Thanks for this ! I have enjoyed and learned a lot here..
Dan F

Thanks guys. The car is ready for the LSP. I spent 2 hours getting off tape residue. How do you do it? Not tape? I tape, and it leaves glue on the edges where the tape was. Then I spend forever removing it with mineral spirits on my finger. I don`t want to use a towel, because I don`t want to mar the paint with the tape glue. You can see my tape above. Its the blue 3M 3/4" and some white 3M 1".

I taped more for this job than I ever did. Usually I skip most of it, because removing the glue is such a hassle on a polished black finish. some of the tape sat on the car overnight and some didn`t - it didn`t matter, the residue was the same. I`m guessing on a lighter color car you can get away with just wiping it off with a towel?

Anyway, I`ll post pictures after it`s all done. Tomorrow I`ll be applying Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Regular (for it`s gloss boosting ability - thanks for it Dr Olds) and Swissvax Best of Show as the LSP.

Excellent review! BLack mirror for sure!

Swanicyouth -

I get 3m masking tape that doesn`t leave a residue...

I have never tried any of the blue 3m tape because it is too expensive for someone who does this work for a living and I dont like it anyway. I think its made more for taping wood trim and stuff, etc..

I get my 3m masking tape from detailed image, out of new york, but I am sure everyone sells about the same thing...

Since I do about 98% German cars, I use alot of tape because all of them - especially BMW has all that little rubber trim going around the windows and doors that is a pain to clean up later if you hit it with a rotary..

Lucky for me, I used to paint and learned how to tape fast and perfectly so that paint didnt get into places where it was not wanted..

Lots of people just ignore taping and try to avoid all the trim and end up cleaning trim that they couldnt quite avoid, and that works too..

You just have to pick your own process and refine and be innovative about it...

If you do decide to keep taping, try to make it one continuous piece of tape, going carefully around all the curvy parts, ending back where it started for things like sunroofs, etc., or at the other end of that long rubber trim piece that a lot of Bimmers have going down the side..

This way, all you have to do is pull it up from one end or the other and start peeling it all off carefully and not stopping until you get at the other end ! Really fast this way..

The tape will take a little stretching and can go around tight curves if you are gently pushing down on it and pulling at the same time...

Another thing that helps tape get around difficult angles, is to gently fold it back against itself so it better conforms to the angle, while you are applying it to that trim, etc...
It will end up looking like tape that has a lot of creases as it goes around that area, but the edge will remain sharp, and be just fine..You are protecting that trim, etc., so that is what is most important..

Your Z4 looks amazing!!!!
Dan F

^Thanks for the advice. What 3M tape do you get? What color is it? I`ve tried the white, green, blue, and even the "3M Automative Refinishing Tape" (yellow) all leave glue on the paint.

I`ll have to check out DI and see what tape they sell.

Thanks again for all the advice.

I went on DI. Their 3M tape says "Automative Refinishing Tape`, but its green. The stuff I have (not pictured) says the same, but its yellow. I`m going to check out their tape. It also says "no residue".

Thanks again for the help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Swanicyouth

I went on DI. Their 3M tape says "Automative Refinishing Tape`, but its green. The stuff I have (not pictured) says the same, but its yellow. I`m going to check out their tape. It also says "no residue".

Thanks again for the help.

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I remember that DI has 2 flavors of tape - 1 more expensive than the other.. I believe the newer one is a different color like you said, from the one I buy which is just the regular light tan color masking tape of all masking tape colors.

I used to buy the yellow, thicker 3m painter`s tape and it was good, but too thick and very expensive..

I am wondering why you get residue - is it hot where you live?? I`m guessing if its California, it will definitely be warmer than the frigid Northwest, where I am going to be so happy to move away from soon !

I try to size the tape to the task as much as possible, so I have 3 sizes - 1/8", 1/4" and the regular 1/2" sizes.. Nothing wider... to me wider is a waste and the overlap is a pain..

When I painted, I had to learn to be able to tape very tightly and perfectly, all the things that I didnt want to get primer and later paint on..

So, the taping part is perfect, neat, no crazy places where multiple layers are torn haphazardly, sticking out all kinds of directions...

You might go by an Automotive Paint Supply Store and look at what they sell.. They will for sure, have the 1/4 and 1/8" sizes...

Up here, I found Sherwin-Williams Automotive Paint store that sells all their products to Body Shops, etc...

I never get residue on paint from tape, because I try to never touch the paint with the tape in the first place..

I guess if I ever got some on there, I would try something liquid that would not be hard to use, with a Qtip or an edge of a nice soft microfiber that would not scratch the paintwork... And even Qtips can scratch so you have to be careful even more with them than with a softer microfiber towel...

Good luck with this !
Dan F

Swanicyouth -

Here are the masking tape numbers --

3M Automotive Masking Tape # 03430 - 1/2"

Scotch/3M Automotive Refinish Masking Tape Nbr. 233+, Part # N.26344 - 1/4" light green

Scotch/3M Fine Line Tape Nbr. 218. Part # 06300 - 1/8" Light tan, normal color

Dan F

Thanks for the help Dan. The residue I get is on the far side of the tape edges. If the tape was a highway, the residue would be the 2 guard rails. I live in PA, so it`s not hot. Whenever I pull tape up, there are 2 lines on each edge.

I`m wondering if its because I strip the car chemically if LSP, before polishing. Maybe if there was wax on there, tape wouldn`t stick as much. It`s probably just the 3M tape I`m using.

I`ve tried the thick yellow 3M stuff as well and that was pretty bad with residue. The residue is definitely tape glue (not polish). I use mineral spirits on my finger to gently remove it, then wipe off any mineral spirit residue with ONR. But it takes time!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Swanicyouth

Thanks for the help Dan. The residue I get is on the far side of the tape edges. If the tape was a highway, the residue would be the 2 guard rails. I live in PA, so it`s not hot. Whenever I pull tape up, there are 2 lines on each edge.

I`m wondering if its because I strip the car chemically if LSP, before polishing. Maybe if there was wax on there, tape wouldn`t stick as much. It`s probably just the 3M tape I`m using.

I`ve tried the thick yellow 3M stuff as well and that was pretty bad with residue. The residue is definitely tape glue (not polish). I use mineral spirits on my finger to gently remove it, then wipe off any mineral spirit residue with ONR. But it takes time!

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Swanicyouth -

Glad to help !

Wow, I never see the tape residue you have described..

If you are in PA, then DI is not that far off.. You can email the owner, Greg and talk to him about their tape.. He is really nice and maybe he might just sent you a sample to try out ???

For a few years, Meguiars sold a really nice big roll of 1/2" tan, masking tape that was absolutely perfect ! It was also very sticky and that is always good for Rotary power sometimes grazing the tape and wanting to remove it.. Not such a big issue with any other machine type..

When 3M got into Meguiar`s business, that ended the awesome tape from that company...Too bad.

So now, we get these rolls of tape that cost more or at least as much as before, and as an added bonus, there is less tape on the roll... :)

DanF

Thanks for the review. My Rupes 15 has a longer body like the Flex compared to other DA`s I have used. The Rupes also is dead (no change in speed I can tell above speed 5 or so). At max (if needed), I found the pad got warm in the center.

It is definitely a smooth, nice sounding (use ear plugs) machine. I do think let it work at slower speeds before cranking it up.

Awesome review. I need to break out my Rupes polishes and pads. I have them still sitting in the box when I purchased my Rupes.

Great review... THanks