Best products for swirl mark removal by hand?

[Ronkh]

[marlinspike]

And you get a big supply of product that lets you do numerous cars !! And a feeling of accomplishment that is INSANE

Welcome to the addiction

My advice is call Ray tomorrow and have him price match the geek since they got 15% off everything

Funny thing is, I always thought myself already addicted, with a closet full of P21S, Sonax, 3M, Wurth, wool mitts, Apple Leather Care, and separate trash bags for microfiber and cotton, washing my car weekly (when it had an engine in it) and waxing every 3 months. Then I saw these forums, and realized I`m downright lackadaisical.

[marlinspike]

Appreciate the coupon, but it will be a couple of months before I can drop the coin (set myself a deadline to clear out a couple of credit cards). The trunk was repainted right before she bought the car. Am I correct in assuming I have to wait a couple of months before messing with that anyway?

[Ronkh]

Funny thing is, I always thought myself already addicted, with a closet full of P21S, Sonax, 3M, Wurth, wool mitts, Apple Leather Care, and separate trash bags for microfiber and cotton, washing my car weekly (when it had an engine in it) and waxing every 3 months. Then I saw these forums, and realized I`m downright lackadaisical.

HAhahahahahahahah


It gets worse, believe me

[Ronkh]

Appreciate the coupon, but it will be a couple of months before I can drop the coin (set myself a deadline to clear out a couple of credit cards). The trunk was repainted right before she bought the car. Am I correct in assuming I have to wait a couple of months before messing with that anyway?

ask the guy who painted it

Some paints ok right away, some 30-90 days later

[ShaneB]

Correct it all you want right away. The problem comes from wax or sealant. That will interfere with the paint curing and usually requires you wait 30 days to allow the paint to cure before any protection can be put on

[skibik]

Don`t buy the latest and greatest???? Now ya tell me after I just got 3 cans of pns (and didn`t use it today)

And only a few years supply ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!!?


Resistance is futile !

I said a few years. i was trying to keep my addiction quiet. I should have said a lifetime if they last that long! 3 kinds of wax, enough to do car about 150 times, one was free during a sale that I couldn`t pass up. 2 kinds of WOWA sealants, at least one was free but of course I had to spend $150 at one of these awesome Autopia sales, haven`t touched it yet. Towels, pads, polishes more towels, list goes on. At least once I realized what I had accumulated I put an end to it last spring. So actually resistance is not futile!!! LOL.

[Ronkh]

I think I got enough for 6 lifetimes

[RaysWay]

I think I got enough for 6 lifetimes

^ I`ve seen this guys orders. He`s either running the largest super high end detailing facility on the east coast, or he has enough product for 6 lifetimes.

[Accumulator]

Appreciate the coupon, but it will be a couple of months before I can drop the coin (set myself a deadline to clear out a couple of credit cards). The trunk was repainted right before she bought the car. Am I correct in assuming I have to wait a couple of months before messing with that anyway?

-AND-

..ask the guy who painted it..

Gotta be careful about that seemingly safe and obvious approach! The vast majority of autopainters I`ve known (and that`s quite a few) didn`t really know much about this, many not even being familiar with the paint manfacturers` (current) potition on the topic. Just because they can run a paintgun really well that doesn`t mean they know other things about the paint, like what goes on after it`s sprayed and the car goes home with the customer (who`s usually clueless).

They (the painteres) have always been especially ignorant regarding my primary concern with paint curing- attaining maximum hardness. Sometimes they will say something like "yeah, it`ll get harder for a while, I couldn`t get it quite perfect right now...", usually after I complained about marring in the new paint.

The concern here is that if anything (i.e., some LSP) interferes with the outgassing process then there`s a chance the paint won`t get as hard as it otherwise might. That has happened to a few Autopians and I`ve always been paranoid about it happening to me (I`ve had paint get *dramatically* harder over the course of up to six months).

Whether this is a valid concern is one of those things that`ll be debated forever. David Fermani and I have agreed to disagree on it, and he and I hardly *ever* disagree about anything!

To be on the safe side I use products that are determined to be fresh-paint-friendly for the first 3-6 months (at least 90 days). For decades I used Meguiar`s M05 (or M03/M07/M81/Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish) or 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. These days I use OCW, based on the testing/approval by Ford regarding its use on "post-production paintwork". So IMO it`s easy- err on the side of caution by using OCW, which isn`t a bad product anyhow.

[Ronkh]

-AND-





Gotta be careful about that seemingly safe and obvious approach! The vast majority of autopainters I`ve known (and that`s quite a few) didn`t really know much about this, many not even being familiar with the paint manfacturers` (current) potition on the topic. Just because they can run a paintgun really well that doesn`t mean they know other things about the paint, like what goes on after it`s sprayed and the car goes home with the customer (who`s usually clueless).

They (the painteres) have always been especially ignorant regarding my primary concern with paint curing- attaining maximum hardness. Sometimes they will say something like "yeah, it`ll get harder for a while, I couldn`t get it quite perfect right now...", usually after I complained about marring in the new paint.

The concern here is that if anything (i.e., some LSP) interferes with the outgassing process then there`s a chance the paint won`t get as hard as it otherwise might. That has happened to a few Autopians and I`ve always been paranoid about it happening to me (I`ve had paint get *dramatically* harder over the course of up to six months).

Whether this is a valid concern is one of those things that`ll be debated forever. David Fermani and I have agreed to disagree on it, and he and I hardly *ever* disagree about anything!

To be on the safe side I use products that are determined to be fresh-paint-friendly for the first 3-6 months (at least 90 days). For decades I used Meguiar`s M05 (or M03/M07/M81/Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish) or 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. These days I use OCW, based on the testing/approval by Ford regarding its use on "post-production paintwork". So IMO it`s easy- err on the side of caution by using OCW, which isn`t a bad product anyhow.

Valid points !!

[marlinspike]

So a friend of mine owns the Griot`s one and says I can use it any time I want. So...which pads and chemicals do you guys recommend I buy for removing swirls on a dark mid-dark blue metallic clear-coated paint? I just want to use the machine to remove swirl marks (I enjoy hand waxing).
Thanks for all the advice.

[glen e]

You really can`t correct anything by hand...I tried for years before I got smart and bought a good orbital.

As they say, "why can`t you do it by hand?"

"Becasue the hand cannot move at 1500 RPM"

get a griots, a med pad and meguires 205...

done...if that don`t get it, start with 105....

[Accumulator]

marlinspike- What pads/products you`ll need depend on the hardness of the paint and the degree of correction you`re after; the color doesn`t really enter into it because, as I like to say, "clearcoat is clearcoat". Yeah, darker colors are less forgiving of sub-optimal results, but whether that matters is one of those subjective things (this particular subject is just as nutty about his silver vehicles as his dark blue one).