I find using a long handled boars hair brush speeds up washing my truck tremendously. just rinse it out often as you wash. it`s also very soft on the paint finish. I usually spray wax after every wash.
I find using a long handled boars hair brush speeds up washing my truck tremendously. just rinse it out often as you wash. it`s also very soft on the paint finish. I usually spray wax after every wash.
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I use the AG squeeze bottles and measure 1/4" sections and mark with a sharpie. Add 2 sections 1/2"of 601 then go 8 sections past that with 501/105 or 111 total of 10 1/4" marks. That gives the 1 to 4 ratio * 2. Shake well and have at it. That should be very close to do 2 coats and dump the rest. Clean the bottles with dawn, it is some tough sealant but can be done.
Dave
Thanks - I got some squeeze bottles and used an ONR cap and water to make some relative sharpie lines for the 4 to 1. Mixing will make for less work than applying 601 by hand then 105 or 111. I`m curious to see how the combo holds up over our winter here...although I`m hoping summer lasts until December (our last winter seemed soooo cold and long!)
Anyway, she has 105 on here now (but I didn`t use bonding agent) so I think after the next wash, I`ll give her a coat or two of mixed 601/111.
I also found some Collinite 476S in my old supply stash...but am resisting the urge at this point (however for winter, just maybe 105/111/111/collinite - ?)
I am testing 476s right now on the Wife`s Van that is outside 24/7. Here in AZ with 601/105 longevity on the roof was about 9 months. The rest of the Van had 601/111 over the 105 and those sections were still fine at 1 year. I want to see how Collinite holds up in the 110+ temps here. I applied 885 to my truck that had 1 year old 601/111 but it sits in the garage most of the time, The 32` RV received 925 on Drivers side , 885 on the back and Passenger side but it has a RV cover on it. The RV had 601/105 and had the cover on and off last year and I let it go to long, about 13 months and had to compound the oxidation off. All of this info is just to give you an idea of longevity that I have found.
Dave
In general, collinite gets high marks for durability/longevity, but AZ is a tough location for any wax. And your weather there almost couldn`t be more different than the weather here in CNY. My concern is mostly winter with all the dern salt used around here. Then because of that I find myself at least once a week at the coin-op pressure wash.... And because it`s butt freezing cold WINTER, polishing/waxing just doesn`t happen. So come fall, I`m looking to put on a layer (or layers) of protection armor. Maybe one day I`ll consider a coating, but right now I`m thinking sealant with a wax topper as I mentioned (perhaps 652/105/111/111/Collinite)....perhaps that`s overkill?
No such thing as over kill in Winter, I grew up in Eastern PA, 4 years at Limestone Maine (-70 and more snow I ever saw), 18 Months in upper Vermont. Salt, Brine and sand kills vehicles. Put the 111 on then coat with 476 when Winter approaches would be my strategy. I watched many a nice vehicle rust away in my lifetime. If you are interested take a look on eastwood.com at the rust prevention section. They have a in frame coating that works very well in the frame, doors, tailgate, rocker panels and anywhere else you can put it.
Dave
When I bought the truck I got Auto Armor rust proofing and undercoating. The undercoating didn`t stick in spots I believe because it was January and wasn`t properly prepped. I pressure washed it really well and had it resprayed in April. I dunno about the rustproofing. Since then I`ve learned about Fluid Film and I think I might spray inside body panels (doors, tailgate) as well as hinges, etc. as an extra measure of rust proofing. Although the truck will live outside in the driveway, it will only be out on the road once or twice a week so in conjunction with a solid LSP, and a weekly coin-op pressure wash, she should hold up well. (knock wood as he wraps his head).
Since Fluid Film has been mentioned, I`ll throw this out there. I`ve been using Fluid Film for a number of years this is a versitile product and very useful in certain applications. I tried it on the Bolt Carrier Group of an AR15 just for grins and giggles. It leaves a kind of waxy heavy film and isn`t suited for that particular application but does work very well on the slide of a Glock where grease is initially used. It also works well in the barrel of a snow blower. It keeps the barrel very clean for a couple of uses and is simple to reapply. I think it would work quite well in tight places where rust might want to hide.
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I have read a few posts on Fluid Film and it seems the people that used it for rust prevention were satisfied with it. As long as it works that is all that really matters. Rust seems to start at all those spot welds around wheel wells, the bottom of rocker panels, any spot weld that is exposed to the elements. The bottom inside of front fenders is a hot spot where leaves and other debris seem to collect, the inside folded seams of doors and tailgates are hot spots also. I never had to do the routine but I imagine you could invest a fair amount of time trying to treat all the areas where rust could start from winter weather.
Dave
Another Friday (where do the weeks go?)...
I did an ONR wash. Then I did one coat of DG 601/105, followed by two coats of DG 601/111 !!! I toyed with the idea of a Collinite 476s topper, but by then the surface was too hot to apply wax...(besides, it was prolly just the heat stoke talkin!)...
Notes:
1) 601 was mixed with both 105 and 111 at a 4:1 ratio (4 parts polish/sealant to 1 part bonding agent).
2) It had a previous coat of 105, but not with 601, so I wanted both and the cleaning capability of 105 before applying 111.
3) I found the 601/111 a bit harder to buff off.
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